{"title":"DJI Agras T20 Propulsion Parts","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI Agras T20 Propulsion Parts\u003c\/strong\u003e covers T20 propulsion motors, propellers, ESC modules, motor housings and propeller clamp hardware. Ares Acres is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer that helps operators source the parts listed for their aircraft.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThese are genuine DJI OEM components. Use the DJI material number when it appears on a listing, and check fitment by model, position and assembly before choosing a replacement.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eShop by part\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT20 OEM Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT20 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair (CW \u0026amp; CCW)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT20 OEM ESC Module\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT20 OEM ESC Composite Cable\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT20 OEM Motor Housing Base\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003ch2\u003eCommon questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat can I find in this collection?\u003c\/strong\u003e T20 propulsion motors, propellers, ESC modules, motor housings and propeller clamp hardware.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich aircraft does it fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e These products are organized for the DJI Agras T20. Some parts offer model-specific variants; review each listing.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAre these genuine DJI OEM parts?\u003c\/strong\u003e The collection brings together DJI OEM replacement components sold through Ares Acres.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow do I check a material number?\u003c\/strong\u003e Compare the published DJI number, part name and mounting position with your existing component.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhere can I order?\u003c\/strong\u003e Ares Acres is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer offering these components online.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"dji-agras-t20-oem-motor-protective-shell","title":"DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell is the black, textured, cup-shaped moulding that wraps around the base of a propulsion motor, closing the space where the motor meets the end of its arm. It is open at the top, rolls over into a thick rounded rim, tapers toward its lower end, and carries cut-outs in its wall and a set of moulded ribs inside. It belongs to the propulsion system as a protective cover: it shields the motor base, it does not drive, mount or electrically connect the motor. It is identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16. Operators usually find it while searching for a T20 motor shell, a T20 motor base cover, a T16 motor protective cover, or a cracked motor cup after a tip-over. DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFREE \u0026amp; FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres also ships agricultural drone parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e✅ DJI Agras T20 \/ DJI Agras T16 Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e🇺🇸 USA Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e👍🏻 Satisfaction Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e💵 Money Back Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e📦 Same Day Shipping \u0026amp; Tracking\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIdentified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16, motor-base position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMatched by cup outline, rim shape, cut-out positions and inner ribs against the shell you removed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine DJI OEM propulsion cover, brand new\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne shell covers one motor position. If you want the match confirmed, photograph the shell you removed from the side and from directly above, so the rim, the wall cut-outs and the inner ribs are all visible, and send it to us — we will match it for you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📦 Package Includes\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 × Motor Protective Shell — the one-piece black moulded cup for one motor position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is one shell for one motor.\u003c\/strong\u003e It is a single moulded cover, not a set for the whole aircraft and not a motor assembly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot included: the propulsion motor, the propeller and propeller clamp, the motor mount or motor base, the arm, the ESC, the motor cable, any screws, clips or inserts that hold the shell, and any decal or position marking. Reuse the original fasteners only if their threads and heads are sound.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNothing is included because it appears near the shell on the aircraft. If a clip or fastener is missing from the position you are rebuilding, tell us which one and we will help you identify it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔧 Component Overview\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe motor protective shell is the outer cup at the base of each propulsion motor. On the aircraft it is one of the most exposed mouldings: it sits at the very end of an arm, below the spinning propeller, and it is the first thing that meets the ground, a post, a trailer edge or a tree when the aircraft goes over or an arm tip is struck.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts shape tells you its job. Looking at the part on its own, it has four working areas:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe rim\u003c\/strong\u003e — a thick, rolled, rounded lip at the open top of the cup, which is the part most likely to take a direct knock\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe tapered wall\u003c\/strong\u003e — a textured outer surface that narrows toward the lower end, wrapping around the motor base and the arm end\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe wall cut-outs\u003c\/strong\u003e — openings in the side and lower wall that give clearance and access to what sits inside the cup\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe inner ribs\u003c\/strong\u003e — moulded internal structure that locates the shell around the parts it covers and stiffens the thin wall\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBecause the shell wraps the motor base, its fit depends on everything inside it sitting where DJI put it. When the motor, the mount and the arm end are true, the shell closes around them evenly, with the cut-outs lined up where they belong. When something inside has moved, the shell is often the first place that shows it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOver a working season the shell sees:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip-overs and hard landings that drive an arm tip into the ground\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eArm-tip strikes against posts, trees, fences, trailers and vehicles during handling and transport\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDownwash that drives dust, chaff and grit into and around the motor base\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpray drift and chemical residue that collect at the arm tips\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWash water during cleaning\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSun and heat on the trailer between flights\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eVibration from the motor on every flight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eShells in this position come out for three reasons: a cracked or broken-out rim after an impact, a split wall or broken inner rib that lets the shell sit loose or rattle, or a shell that has gone missing altogether after a crash. The first of those carries a message about the rest of the motor position, and it is the one this part's diagnosis is built around.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚙️ Functional Purpose\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe shell's engineering role is protection and closure. It wraps the motor base so that grit, residue, wash water and small impacts reach the moulding first instead of the parts it surrounds, and it gives the arm tip a finished, closed outer form.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt the motor position it:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCovers the base of the propulsion motor where it meets the arm end\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTakes glancing knocks to the arm tip on the moulding rather than on the motor base\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReduces the amount of dust, chaff and spray residue driven into the motor base by downwash\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eKeeps fingers, straps and cargo away from the motor base during handling\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGives the arm tip a closed, smooth outer form that is easier to rinse clean\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat it does not do matters as much:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt is not the motor mount; the shell does not hold the motor to the arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not drive, cool or electrically connect the motor, and it carries no wiring\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not set the motor's tilt or alignment; a crooked motor is a mount or arm problem\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt is not a waterproof seal; it reduces exposure, it does not make the motor base watertight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not protect the propeller, and it will not stop a blade strike from reaching the motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat division of labour is why a missing or cracked shell rarely grounds the aircraft by itself. It is also why a cracked shell deserves more attention than its own replacement: the impact that broke it did not stop at the moulding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 Diagnosis — a cracked shell is the witness of a strike, not always its only casualty\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe motor protective shell is the part designed to take the knock. So when one comes back cracked, the easy conclusion is that it did its job and only it needs replacing. Sometimes that is true. Often it is not.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe shell is a thin moulding wrapped around much heavier parts. An impact hard enough to crack the rim or split the wall has also passed through the motor base, the mount, the arm end and, if the propeller was turning, the motor bearings. Those parts can be damaged without showing it on the outside. The shell shows it; they do not.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo read the shell as evidence. Where it cracked, and how badly, tells you where the force went:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA chipped or scuffed rim only\u003c\/strong\u003e — usually a glancing knock; the shell has done its job and the motor position is likely sound\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA rim crack that runs down into the wall\u003c\/strong\u003e — a direct blow; check the motor for tilt and the arm end for cracks\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA shell split on one side and pushed in\u003c\/strong\u003e — force went sideways through the motor base; check the mount, the motor fasteners and the arm tube\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBroken inner ribs with an intact outer wall\u003c\/strong\u003e — the shell was crushed against what it covers; the parts inside took the same load\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA missing shell after a crash\u003c\/strong\u003e — whatever tore it off also loaded the motor position; inspect everything it was covering\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBefore you fit a new shell, check the motor position it covers:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMotor tilt\u003c\/strong\u003e — sight along the motor shaft against a neighbouring motor; a motor that leans differently from the others has moved on its mount\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMotor bearings\u003c\/strong\u003e — with the propeller off, turn the motor by hand; it should spin freely and evenly with no grinding, notching or wobble\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMotor fasteners\u003c\/strong\u003e — confirm they are present and tight; an impact can loosen or shear them\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe arm end and arm tube\u003c\/strong\u003e — look for cracks, crushing or a bend near the motor position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe motor cable\u003c\/strong\u003e — check for a pinched or cut lead where the shell was pushed in\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe propeller\u003c\/strong\u003e — a strike that cracked the shell may also have chipped a blade\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eClear those checks first, while the shell is already off and the motor base is in plain view, and that information is still cheap. If the motor position is sound, a new shell is the whole repair. If it is not, fix what moved first; a new shell fitted over a tilted motor or a cracked arm end hides the damage and will not sit properly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo not judge a shell by fit alone.\u003c\/strong\u003e If a new shell will not close evenly around the motor base, the shell is rarely the problem. Something inside the cup is out of place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReplace the motor protective shell when inspection confirms one of these:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA crack through the rim, or a piece of the rim broken out\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA crack running down the tapered wall from the rim or from a cut-out\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA wall that has been pushed in and no longer holds its shape\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBroken or missing inner ribs, so the shell sits loose or rattles\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA shell that will not stay seated even though the motor position is sound\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStress whitening in the moulding after an impact\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA shell missing altogether after a crash or a transport knock\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePrevious repairs with tape, adhesive or filler\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInspect these first, because they cause shell problems or hide behind them:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe propulsion motor — tilt, bearings and fasteners\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor mount and the arm end it sits on\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe arm tube near the motor position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor cable where it passes the shell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe propeller on that position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is no published service interval for this shell. It is replaced when it is cracked, broken, missing or will not seat, not on a schedule.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📐 Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProduct name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary aircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso listed for:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion — motor-base protection\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent type:\u003c\/strong\u003e One-piece moulded protective shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1 shell (covers one motor position)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Open-topped cup with a thick rounded rim, a tapered textured outer wall, wall cut-outs and moulded inner ribs\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColour:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSurface:\u003c\/strong\u003e Textured outer wall, as shown in the product images\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDimensions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWeight:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical:\u003c\/strong\u003e None — protective cover with no wiring\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConnector:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMounting position:\u003c\/strong\u003e Around the base of a propulsion motor, at the end of an arm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstallation method:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fitted around the motor base and retained by the original fixings; fasteners are not supplied\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHardware included:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None — the part is correct or it is not, with no adjustment or app setting that compensates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClassification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion cover\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🛠️ Installation \u0026amp; Maintenance\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBefore installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePower the aircraft down and remove the battery\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemove the propeller from that motor position so nothing can turn while you work\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRinse and dry the arm tip so you are not working in chemical residue\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePhotograph the old shell in place from two sides, including how the motor cable passes it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLay the new shell beside the old one and compare rim shape, cut-out positions and inner ribs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eKeep the original fixings together in a tray, grouped by motor position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDuring installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRelease the original fixings and ease the old shell off without levering against the motor or the cable\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eClean grit and residue from the motor base and the arm end while they are exposed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarry out the motor-position checks: motor tilt, free rotation, fasteners, arm end, cable\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOffer the new shell up so its cut-outs line up with the features they clear, and check it closes evenly before fixing it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStart every fixing by hand; DJI does not publish a torque figure for these fixings, so snug them without crushing the moulding\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConfirm the motor cable is not trapped between the shell and the arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAfter installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTurn the motor by hand and confirm nothing rubs inside the shell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRefit the propeller in its correct orientation for that position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLook along the arms and check the new shell sits like the others\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRun a short hover and listen for rattles or rubbing at that arm tip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRecord the replacement, and any motor-position findings, in the maintenance log\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaintenance between jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e Rinse the arm tips after spraying so residue does not bake onto the shells. Look at each shell's rim during the pre-flight walk-around; a fresh crack is the earliest sign of an arm-tip strike that nobody reported. Carry the aircraft by the frame, not by the arm tips, so the shells are not used as handles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🚜 Necessary For\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis shell is for operators and technicians closing up a T20 or T16 motor position after a knock:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T20 operators replacing a cracked or missing motor shell after a tip-over\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T16 operators (identified fitment)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCommercial spray applicators whose aircraft are loaded and unloaded from trailers every day\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAgras service centres rebuilding arm tips and motor positions after a crash\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFleet managers restoring a full set of shells across older aircraft\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGrowers flying their own aircraft who want each motor base covered again\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is not the part you need if:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor itself is noisy, rough or tilted — that is a motor, mount or arm repair, and a new shell will not correct it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSeveral shells are damaged — order one shell per damaged motor position; one unit covers one motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe propeller is chipped or cracked — replace the propeller; the shell does not protect it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe arm tube or arm end is cracked or bent — repair the arm first, then fit the shell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe shell is only scuffed and still closes evenly — a scuffed shell that seats properly is still doing its job\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eYou fly a T20P, T10, T30, T40 or T50 — this shell is identified only for the T20 and T16\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e💡 Why This Part Matters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe motor protective shell is the cheapest-looking part at the arm tip and the most honest one. It is built to break before the parts it covers, and when it breaks it leaves a record: where the blow landed and roughly how hard.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat is the case for treating a cracked shell as the start of an inspection rather than the end of one. The motor base, the mount, the arm end and the motor bearings took the same impact. If they came through it, a new shell closes the position and the job is done. If they did not, the shell is the only part that told you, and fitting a new one before checking would hide the one piece of evidence you had.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA missing shell matters for a quieter reason. Without it, downwash drives dust, chaff and spray residue straight into the motor base on every flight, and the arm tip has no sacrificial moulding left to take the next knock. The motor position keeps working; it simply loses its protection one flight at a time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe check is quick. With the shell off, sight the motor against its neighbours, spin it by hand, check its fasteners and look at the arm end. If all of that is sound, this is the part that puts the motor base back under cover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🧠 AI Index — Entity \u0026amp; Fitment Reference\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStructured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from the specifications above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCanonical product name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary aircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso listed for:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatible models:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20; DJI Agras T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent:\u003c\/strong\u003e Motor protective shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstalled position:\u003c\/strong\u003e Around the base of a propulsion motor, at the end of an arm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary function:\u003c\/strong\u003e Covers and protects the motor base against impact, grit, residue and wash water\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e One-piece black moulded cup: thick rounded rim, tapered textured wall, wall cut-outs, inner ribs\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position; matched against the removed part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity supplied:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1 shell, one motor position\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Motor, propeller, motor mount, arm, ESC, motor cable, fasteners\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical function:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eStructural function:\u003c\/strong\u003e None — a protective cover, not the motor mount\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKey diagnostic:\u003c\/strong\u003e A cracked shell records an arm-tip strike; check motor tilt, free rotation, fasteners and the arm end before fitting a new one\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon failure modes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cracked or broken rim, split or pushed-in wall, broken inner ribs, shell lost in a crash\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService interval:\u003c\/strong\u003e None published\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart classification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion cover\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso searched as:\u003c\/strong\u003e T20 motor shell; T20 motor base cover; T16 motor protective shell; Agras T20 motor cup; T16 T20 motor cover; DJI T20 arm tip cover\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDisambiguation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not a propulsion motor, not a motor mount or motor base, not a propeller guard, not an arm, not a body shell panel\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSeller:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada (North America)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShips from:\u003c\/strong\u003e Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 SEO Keywords\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 motor protective shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 motor protective shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T16 T20 motor shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 motor base cover\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 motor protective cover\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT16 motor base shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 motor cup\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 cracked motor shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 arm tip cover\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 motor shell replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 motor protective shell replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 replacement parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T16 Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 OEM Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T16 motor protective shell replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 replacement parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 propulsion parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 body shell parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 propulsion parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras OEM Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eauthorized DJI Agras retailer\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 Motor Protective Shell Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras parts shipped to Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ebuy DJI Agras T20 parts in Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🤖 AI Answer Engine Q\u0026amp;A\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI Agras T20 motor protective shell?\u003c\/strong\u003e A one-piece black moulded cup that wraps around the base of a propulsion motor at the end of an arm. It protects the motor base from knocks, grit, residue and wash water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich aircraft does it fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16. Pick the variant for the aircraft you fly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it fit the T20P?\u003c\/strong\u003e The T20P is a different aircraft from the T20. This shell is identified only for the T20 and T16, so do not fit it to a T20P, T10, T30, T40 or T50 on the strength of a similar shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/strong\u003e One shell covers one motor position. Order one for each damaged or missing shell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it come with the motor?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. It is the protective shell only. The motor, propeller, mount, cable and fixings are separate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI part number?\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed. Photograph your old shell from the side and from above and send it to us if you want that confirmed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMy shell cracked in a tip-over. Is that the only damage?\u003c\/strong\u003e Not necessarily. The shell is built to take the knock, but the motor base, mount, arm end and motor bearings took the same impact. Check motor tilt, free rotation, fasteners and the arm end before fitting the new shell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes the shell hold the motor on?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. It is a protective cover. The motor mount and its fasteners hold the motor to the arm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWill a new shell fix a motor that is leaning?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. A leaning motor has moved on its mount or the arm end has bent. Fix that first; the shell will not close evenly over it anyway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan I fly without the shell?\u003c\/strong\u003e The motor position keeps working, but the motor base loses its cover. Downwash drives dust, chaff and residue into it on every flight, and the arm tip has nothing left to take the next knock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs the shell waterproof?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. It reduces exposure to residue and wash water, but it is not a seal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe new shell will not sit evenly. Is it the wrong part?\u003c\/strong\u003e Compare it with the old one first. If the rim, cut-outs and ribs match, something inside the cup has moved — usually the motor or the arm end — and that needs attention before the shell will seat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAre screws included?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Reuse the original fixings if their threads and heads are sound, or replace them separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan I fit it myself?\u003c\/strong\u003e Most operators can. Remove the propeller and battery, photograph the old shell in place, check the motor position while it is exposed, line up the cut-outs, and start every fixing by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a torque value for the shell fixings?\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI does not publish one for these fixings. Snug them evenly and stop before the moulding deforms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a service interval?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Replace it when it is cracked, broken, missing or will not seat. Look at the rims on every pre-flight walk-around.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Ares Acres","offers":[{"title":"DJI T20","offer_id":68079092367680,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"DJI T16","offer_id":68079092400448,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0923\/0159\/0848\/files\/dji-agras-t20-oem-motor-protective-shell-1.png?v=1794323977"},{"product_id":"dji-agras-t20-oem-3390-propeller-pair-cw-ccw","title":"DJI Agras T20 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair (CW \u0026 CCW)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe DJI Agras T20 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair (CW \u0026amp; CCW) is two folding propeller blades for the propulsion system of the DJI Agras T20: one clockwise (CW) blade and one counter-clockwise (CCW) blade, each black with an orange tip and a QR-code label, each with a round pivot hole at the root where it bolts into the propeller clamp on top of a motor. 3390 is the size designation in the part name. The blades are identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16, and they are the parts operators look for after a blade strike, a chipped or split tip, or a rotor that has started to shake the aircraft. People usually search for them as a T20 propeller, a T16 3390 propeller, a T20 CW CCW blade, or a T20 folding propeller replacement. DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed. The point most worth knowing is the count: a pair is one blade of each rotation, not two blades for one rotor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFREE \u0026amp; FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres also ships agricultural drone parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e✅ DJI Agras T20 \/ DJI Agras T16 Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e🇺🇸 USA Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e👍🏻 Satisfaction Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e💵 Money Back Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e📦 Same Day Shipping \u0026amp; Tracking\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIdentified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16, 3390 folding propeller position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMatched by rotation, root pivot shape and blade outline against the blade you removed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine DJI OEM propulsion component, brand new\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe two blades in the pair turn in opposite directions and are not interchangeable. If you want the match confirmed, photograph the damaged blade flat, top face up, next to a sound blade from the same rotor, and send it to us — we will tell you which hand you need and how many.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📦 Package Includes\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 × 3390 folding propeller blade, clockwise (CW)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 × 3390 folding propeller blade, counter-clockwise (CCW)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is two blades, one of each rotation.\u003c\/strong\u003e It is not two blades of the same rotation, and it is not a complete two-blade set for a single rotor. Each rotor on these aircraft carries two blades that both turn the same way, so one rotor is re-bladed with two blades of one hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot included: the pivot bolts, nuts, washers and spacers that hold a blade in the clamp; the propeller clamp or propeller holder itself; the motor; and any arm, cover or adapter parts. Reuse the original pivot hardware only if the threads, the bolt shank and the washers are sound.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNothing is included because it appears near the blades on the aircraft. If a pivot bolt or washer went missing with the broken blade, tell us which one and we will help you identify it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔧 Component Overview\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are the blades of the T20's propulsion system: the long, flat, twisted aerofoils that turn motor torque into lift. Each one bolts at its root into a propeller clamp on top of a motor, pivots on that bolt, and swings out to its working position under rotation. Folded back, the blades lie along the arm for transport.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pair is easiest to understand from what is on each blade:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe root\u003c\/strong\u003e — a thickened hub end with a round pivot hole, which takes the bolt that holds the blade in the clamp and lets it fold\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe working span\u003c\/strong\u003e — a black aerofoil that widens out from the root and tapers again towards the tip, with a twist that sets which way the blade has to turn to lift\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe orange tip\u003c\/strong\u003e — a coloured tip that makes the disc visible to people on the ground when the rotor is turning\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe QR-code label\u003c\/strong\u003e — an identification label on the blade\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe rotation is built into the shape. A CW blade is the mirror image of a CCW blade: the same root, the same length, the same outline seen from a distance, but the twist and the leading edge run the opposite way. On the bench they look like a matched pair. On the aircraft they belong on different rotors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOver a working season the blades take:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStrikes against crops, branches, wires, posts and the ground during low passes and landings\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eContact with vehicles, trailers and people during handling with the arms unfolded\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpray and wash water across the whole span on every flight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDust and grit carried in the downwash, which wears the leading edge and the tip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFolding and unfolding at the pivot every time the aircraft is packed and unpacked\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSun and heat on the trailer between flights\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlades come out for one of three reasons: visible damage from a strike, wear at the leading edge and tip that has built up over many flights, or a pivot that has loosened so the blade no longer sits where it should. The first is obvious. The other two are found by looking, and by knowing which blade belongs where.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚙️ Functional Purpose\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe blades' engineering role is to produce thrust from motor rotation, evenly, in the direction the flight controller expects for that rotor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the propulsion system they:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConvert motor torque into lift for the rotor they are fitted to\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePush air down through the spray zone, which carries droplets into the canopy below\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBalance each other across the rotor, so the motor turns without shaking the arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFold back at the pivot for transport and swing out under rotation for flight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMake the turning disc visible through their orange tips\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the blades do not do matters as much:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThey do not set which way a motor turns; the motor and its controller do that, and the blade must match it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThey do not hold themselves in place; the pivot bolt and the clamp do\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThey carry no wiring and have no electrical function\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThey do not fix a motor fault, a bent motor shaft or a worn clamp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA CW blade does not become a CCW blade by being turned over; it is a different part\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe T20 and T16 are six-rotor aircraft. Half the rotors turn clockwise and half counter-clockwise, so that the motors' turning forces cancel and the aircraft can hold its heading. Every rotor carries two blades, and both blades on a rotor turn the same way. That is why the blades are sold as one of each rotation: the pair is a unit of the aircraft, not a unit of a rotor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 Diagnosis — a pair is one blade of each rotation, so count what you need by rotation, not by pairs\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMost blade mistakes are counting mistakes. An operator with one broken rotor orders one pair, opens it, and finds a single blade that fits that rotor and a second blade that belongs somewhere else. The arithmetic is short, and it is worth doing first:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne rotor\u003c\/strong\u003e carries two blades of the same rotation. Re-blading one CW rotor takes two CW blades, which means two pairs — and leaves two CCW blades as spares.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne damaged blade\u003c\/strong\u003e is replaced by one blade of the same rotation. One pair covers it and leaves one blade of the other rotation as a spare.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne damaged blade on a CW rotor and one on a CCW rotor\u003c\/strong\u003e is exactly one pair.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe whole aircraft\u003c\/strong\u003e carries twelve blades: six rotors × two blades. That is six CW and six CCW, so a full re-blade is six pairs.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCount the damaged blades by rotation, not by rotor and not by pairs, and the order comes out right. A spare kit held as pairs is never short of either hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThen confirm the blade is really the fault.\u003c\/strong\u003e A shaking rotor is often blamed on the blades because they are the part you can see. Before replacing a blade for vibration alone, check what imitates it:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA loose pivot bolt\u003c\/strong\u003e — a blade that wobbles on its pivot shakes the rotor like a damaged one; tighten or replace the bolt first\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA worn or cracked propeller clamp\u003c\/strong\u003e — if the blade root sits loose in a sound clamp, the clamp is the problem, not the blade\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA bent motor shaft or a damaged motor bell\u003c\/strong\u003e — spin the motor by hand with the blades off and watch for runout\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA loose arm or arm joint\u003c\/strong\u003e — vibration that stays with the arm rather than the rotor points at the arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMud, spray residue or a wrapped stem on one blade\u003c\/strong\u003e — clean both blades on the rotor before judging them\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCheck the hand of every blade you fit.\u003c\/strong\u003e A CW blade and a CCW blade share the same root and pivot, so a wrong-hand blade can bolt into a clamp. Compare the new blade with the remaining sound blade on that rotor: same twist, same leading edge, same direction. The two blades on one rotor are always the same hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDo those checks first, while the arm is still on the bench and that information is still cheap. If a blade is chipped, split, delaminated, cracked at the root or worn through at the tip, replace it with the same rotation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReplace a blade when inspection confirms one of these:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA chip, notch or split anywhere on the leading or trailing edge\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA crack at the root, around the pivot hole, or across the span\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLayers separating at the tip or along an edge\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA tip that is broken off, worn through or missing its orange section\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA blade that is visibly bent or twisted compared with its partner on the same rotor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAn elongated or damaged pivot hole that lets the blade rock in a sound clamp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eVibration that follows the blade when the blades on a rotor are swapped between positions\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAny blade that has struck a hard object, even if no damage is visible\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInspect these first, because they produce similar symptoms:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe pivot bolts, nuts and washers\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe propeller clamp or holder on the motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor shaft and bell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe arm and its fold joint\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eResidue, mud or crop stems stuck to the blades\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is no published service interval for these blades. They are replaced when they are damaged or worn, not on a schedule, and they are inspected before every flight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📐 Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProduct name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair (CW \u0026amp; CCW)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary aircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso listed for:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion — rotor blades\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent type:\u003c\/strong\u003e Folding propeller blades\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSize designation:\u003c\/strong\u003e 3390, as named in the part designation\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2 blades: 1 clockwise (CW) and 1 counter-clockwise (CCW)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRotation:\u003c\/strong\u003e One blade of each rotation; the two are mirror images and not interchangeable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Folding blade with a round pivot hole at the root, twisted aerofoil span and orange tip; QR-code label on the blade\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carbon composite blade; exact composition not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColour:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black with orange tips\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDimensions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWeight:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConnector:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMounting position:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propeller clamp on top of a motor, one blade per pivot, two blades per rotor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstallation method:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pivot bolt through the root into the propeller clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHardware included:\u003c\/strong\u003e None — pivot bolts, nuts and washers are not supplied\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None — the blade is the correct rotation and undamaged or it is not, with no adjustment or app setting that compensates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClassification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion component\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🛠️ Installation \u0026amp; Maintenance\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBefore installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePower the aircraft down and remove the battery\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRinse and dry the rotor so you are not working in spray residue\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNote which way the rotor turns from the arm or motor marking, and photograph the blades in place\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCount the damaged blades by rotation, and lay each new blade beside the sound blade on the same rotor to confirm the hand\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInspect the pivot bolts, nuts, washers and the clamp, and set aside any that are worn\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDuring installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemove the damaged blade's pivot hardware and keep it in order\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eClean the clamp faces and the pivot area before fitting the new blade\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFit the new blade the same way up as its partner on that rotor, with the same leading edge\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRefit the pivot bolt, washers and nut in their original order; DJI does not publish a torque figure here, so tighten until the blade is held without play and still folds under firm hand pressure\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRepeat for any other blade, one rotor at a time, so blades do not get mixed between rotors\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAfter installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFold and unfold each new blade by hand; it should move smoothly and stop in the same place as its partner\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLook along the rotor from the side; both blades should sit at the same height\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCheck every rotor's blades against each other for hand before powering up\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRun a short low hover clear of people and listen for new vibration\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRecord the blade change and the rotor in the maintenance log\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaintenance between jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e Wipe the blades down after spraying, and look along both edges and at the tip before every flight. Check the pivot bolts while you are there; a loose pivot wears the root hole and turns a sound blade into a scrap one. Carry spares as pairs so you always have a blade of each rotation in the truck.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🚜 Necessary For\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese blades are for operators and technicians keeping T20 and T16 rotors in service:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T20 operators replacing blades after a strike or a hard landing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T16 operators (identified fitment)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCommercial spray applicators flying low passes through orchards, vines and field edges\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAgras service centres and repair technicians re-blading aircraft between jobs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFleet managers building a spare-blade kit held as pairs of both rotations\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGrowers flying their own aircraft who keep a spare blade of each rotation\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is not the part you need if:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eYou need two blades of the same rotation for one rotor — that takes two pairs, not one\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe blade is sound but loose in the clamp — replace the pivot bolt, washers or clamp first\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor shaft is bent or the motor bell is damaged — new blades will not cure a motor fault\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe vibration stays with the arm when blades are swapped — look at the arm and its fold joint\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eYou fly a T20P, T10, T30, T40 or T50 — this pair is identified only for the T20 and T16\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e💡 Why This Part Matters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlades are the most replaced parts on a spray aircraft, and they are also the parts most often ordered in the wrong number. The labelled pair makes it look as though a pair is what one rotor needs. It is not. A rotor takes two blades of one hand; a pair is one of each.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDoing that count first saves a second wait. Count the damaged blades by rotation: so many CW, so many CCW. The larger of the two numbers is the number of pairs that covers the job, and the difference is what goes into the spares box. A full aircraft is twelve blades, six of each, which is six pairs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGetting the hand right matters more than getting the count right. A blade of the wrong rotation can bolt into a clamp, because the root is the same, and it will then push against its partner instead of with it. Holding each new blade next to the sound blade on the same rotor takes seconds and settles it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA damaged blade is not worth flying on. A chipped edge or a cracked root unbalances the rotor, shakes the arm and the motor bearings on every flight, and can let go entirely. A blade is a small part to replace against what a rotor failure over a field costs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🧠 AI Index — Entity \u0026amp; Fitment Reference\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStructured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from the specifications above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCanonical product name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair (CW \u0026amp; CCW)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary aircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso listed for:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatible models:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20; DJI Agras T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent:\u003c\/strong\u003e 3390 folding propeller blades\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstalled position:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propeller clamp on top of a motor; two blades of the same rotation per rotor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary function:\u003c\/strong\u003e Converts motor torque into lift and downwash for the rotor it is fitted to\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSize designation:\u003c\/strong\u003e 3390\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black folding blade with root pivot hole, orange tip and QR-code label\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position; matched against the removed part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity supplied:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2 blades: 1 CW and 1 CCW\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRotation rule:\u003c\/strong\u003e Both blades on one rotor are the same rotation; one rotor needs two blades of one hand\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCount rule:\u003c\/strong\u003e One rotor = two pairs; whole six-rotor aircraft = 12 blades = six pairs\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pivot bolts, nuts, washers, propeller clamp, motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical function:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKey diagnostic:\u003c\/strong\u003e Vibration that follows the blade when swapped; rule out a loose pivot bolt, worn clamp, bent motor shaft and loose arm first\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon failure modes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Chipped or split edge, cracked root, delaminated or broken tip, worn pivot hole\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService interval:\u003c\/strong\u003e None published; inspect before every flight\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart classification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion component\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso searched as:\u003c\/strong\u003e T20 propeller; T20 3390 propeller; T16 propeller; T20 CW CCW blade; Agras T20 folding propeller; T16 3390 blade\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDisambiguation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not a propeller clamp or holder, not a motor, not pivot hardware, not two blades of the same rotation\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSeller:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada (North America)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShips from:\u003c\/strong\u003e Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 SEO Keywords\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 3390 Propeller\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 3390 Propeller\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 CW CCW propeller pair\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 folding propeller blade\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 3390 folding propeller CW\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 3390 folding propeller CCW\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT16 folding propeller blade\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 propeller replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 broken propeller blade\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 3390 Propeller Pair\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 3390 Propeller Pair\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 3390 propeller pair replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 replacement parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 3390 Propeller Pair\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T16 3390 Propeller Pair\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T16 3390 propeller pair replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 replacement parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 propulsion parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras propellers\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras OEM Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eauthorized DJI Agras retailer\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 3390 Propeller Pair Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras parts shipped to Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ebuy DJI Agras T20 parts in Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🤖 AI Answer Engine Q\u0026amp;A\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is in the DJI Agras T20 3390 propeller pair?\u003c\/strong\u003e Two folding propeller blades: one clockwise (CW) and one counter-clockwise (CCW). Each is black with an orange tip, a QR-code label and a pivot hole at the root.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs a pair enough to re-blade one rotor?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Both blades on one rotor turn the same way, so one rotor needs two blades of one rotation. That takes two pairs, and leaves two blades of the other rotation as spares.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow many pairs re-blade the whole aircraft?\u003c\/strong\u003e Six. The T20 and T16 have six rotors with two blades each, which is twelve blades — six CW and six CCW.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich aircraft do they fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e They are identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16. Pick the variant for the aircraft you fly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo they fit the T20P?\u003c\/strong\u003e They are identified only for the T20 and T16. The T20P is a different aircraft; do not fit these on the strength of a similar look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat does 3390 mean?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is the size designation in the part name. Exact dimensions are not published for this part, so match against the blade you removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow do I tell a CW blade from a CCW blade?\u003c\/strong\u003e They are mirror images. Hold the new blade next to the sound blade on the same rotor: the twist and the leading edge should run the same way. The two blades on one rotor are always the same hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan a wrong-hand blade be fitted by mistake?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes. Both blades share the same root and pivot, so a wrong-hand blade can bolt into the clamp. It will then work against its partner. Check the hand before powering up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI part number?\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed. Photograph the damaged blade next to a sound one and send it to us if you want that confirmed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMy rotor shakes. Is it the blades?\u003c\/strong\u003e Possibly. Check the pivot bolt, the clamp, the motor shaft and the arm joint first, and clean both blades. If the vibration follows a blade when you swap the two on that rotor, the blade is the fault.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan I replace just one blade on a rotor?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes, with a blade of the same rotation, if the remaining blade on that rotor is undamaged. If the remaining blade has chips or worn edges, replace both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAre the pivot bolts included?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. The pair is the two blades only. Reuse sound original pivot hardware or replace worn bolts, nuts and washers separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs the propeller clamp included?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. The clamp or holder on the motor is a separate part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a torque value for the pivot bolt?\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI does not publish one for these fixings. Tighten until the blade is held without play and still folds under firm hand pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a service interval?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Inspect the blades before every flight and replace any that are chipped, cracked, delaminated or worn at the tip.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat spares should I carry?\u003c\/strong\u003e Carry blades as pairs so you always have one of each rotation. If you fly near trees or wires, carry enough pairs to re-blade a whole rotor of either hand.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Ares Acres","offers":[{"title":"DJI T20","offer_id":68079096070464,"sku":null,"price":349.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"DJI T16","offer_id":68079096103232,"sku":null,"price":349.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0923\/0159\/0848\/files\/dji-agras-t20-oem-3390-propeller-pair-cw-ccw-1.png?v=1794323971"},{"product_id":"dji-agras-t20-oem-10015-propulsion-motor","title":"DJI Agras T20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe DJI Agras T20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor is one of the brushless motors that turn the propellers of the DJI Agras T20 spray aircraft. 10015 is the motor's size designation, the name the part designation uses for this unit, and it is not a DJI material number. The motor is a propulsion-system part, identified for the DJI Agras T20, and it is supplied brand new as a single motor: a black round motor can with a central shaft hub and two threaded studs on its top face, and a small terminal block on one side carrying the three phase contacts, as shown in the product images. It sits at the end of an aircraft arm, takes switched power from the ESC that drives it, and turns the propeller that lifts and steers the aircraft. Operators usually look for it as a T20 motor, an Agras T20 propulsion motor, a T20 10015 motor or a DJI T20 arm motor after a motor warning in the app, a rough or noisy arm, a hard landing, or a propeller strike. DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFREE \u0026amp; FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres also ships agricultural drone parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e✅ DJI Agras T20 Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e🇺🇸 USA Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e👍🏻 Satisfaction Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e💵 Money Back Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e📦 Same Day Shipping \u0026amp; Tracking\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIdentified for the DJI Agras T20 propulsion system, one motor per arm position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMatched by housing, top-face layout, phase terminal block and the label on the motor you removed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine DJI OEM propulsion motor, brand new\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 motors carry a printed label on the top face. Photograph the label on the motor you removed, and a second photograph of its terminal block side, and send both to us. We will match it for you, so the right motor arrives first time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📦 Package Includes\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 × DJI Agras T20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor, with its three-pin phase terminal block, as shown in the product images\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOne motor, one arm.\u003c\/strong\u003e The T20 carries one propulsion motor at the end of each arm. A single unit replaces one motor; it is not a set for the whole aircraft.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is part of the motor:\u003c\/strong\u003e the round motor can, the central shaft hub and the two threaded studs on the top face, and the small black terminal block on the side with its three round phase contacts. These come with the motor because they are the motor, not accessories.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot included: propellers, the propeller holder or clamp hardware, the motor protective shell, the arm or arm tube, mounting screws, the ESC module, and any arm wiring. Each of these is a separate part or stays with the aircraft.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you need the blades, those are the DJI Agras T20 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair (CW \u0026amp; CCW). If the cover over the motor is cracked, that is the DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell. If the motor is sound and the fault is in the drive, that is the DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Module.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNothing is included because it appears in a photograph. If an image shows a fixing or fitting not named above, it is not part of the motor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔧 Component Overview\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe propulsion motor turns electrical power into lift. On the Agras T20 each arm ends in a motor, each motor carries a propeller, and the flight controller steers the aircraft by changing the speed of each motor many times a second. Every climb out of the loading area, every turn at the end of a swath and every hold over a field edge is a change in motor speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs shown in the product images, the motor is a broad, flat, black round can. Its top face carries three features that matter when you match it against the old one:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe central hub\u003c\/strong\u003e — a metal shaft adapter rising from the middle of the top face, with a bore through its centre\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo threaded studs\u003c\/strong\u003e — one each side of the hub, each standing on its own round pad; one pad carries a printed label with a serial line and a small square code\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSmall screws\u003c\/strong\u003e spaced around the outer part of the top face\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn one side of the can sits a small black terminal block with three round contacts. That is the three-pin phase connection: the point where the drive from the ESC reaches the motor's windings. A brushless motor needs all three phases connected to turn.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere it sits and what it touches:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePosition:\u003c\/strong\u003e the end of an aircraft arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAbove it:\u003c\/strong\u003e the propeller mounting and the propeller blades\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAround it:\u003c\/strong\u003e the motor protective shell, where fitted\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eElectrically:\u003c\/strong\u003e the three phase contacts, fed by the ESC that drives this motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSystem:\u003c\/strong\u003e propulsion, alongside the ESC, the arm wiring, the propellers and their mounting\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA propulsion motor on a spray aircraft works in the hardest place on the airframe. Over a season it sees:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFull load on every take-off with a loaded tank\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eContinuous high speed for every minute of flight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpray drift and chemical mist drawn around and into the motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDust, chaff and residue from field edges and loading areas\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHeat from long afternoons and back-to-back sorties\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRinse water at the end of the day\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShock from landings and the occasional propeller strike\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMotors in this position are usually replaced for one of a handful of reasons: bearings that have become rough or noisy, a can or shaft damaged in a strike, a phase terminal damaged beyond sensible repair, or a motor the aircraft keeps reporting after the rest of the propulsion chain on that arm has been cleared.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚙️ Functional Purpose\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe motor's engineering role is to turn the propeller at the speed the flight controller asks for, instantly and repeatedly, under load. It does not decide that speed. The flight controller decides, the ESC switches power into the motor's three phases, and the motor turns that switching into torque at the propeller.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the propulsion system it:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTurns one propeller to produce that arm's share of lift\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eChanges speed on command so the aircraft can hold position, climb, descend and turn\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarries the propeller mounting on its top face, at the hub and the two studs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTransfers thrust and torque into the end of the arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReceives its drive through the three phase contacts on its terminal block\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBecause steering is done by speed, every motor matters to the whole aircraft. A motor that cannot reach the speed it is asked for, or that runs rough, forces the flight controller to lean on the other arms. The aircraft may still fly, but it is working harder and has less in reserve when the tank is full.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the motor does not do matters as much:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not drive itself; the ESC switches its phases\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not decide its own speed; the flight controller does\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not cure vibration that comes from a chipped propeller or a loose propeller mounting\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not protect itself from spray and debris; the motor protective shell and regular rinsing do that\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIts 10015 designation does not make it interchangeable with another aircraft's motor of a similar size\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 Diagnosis — prove the motor first, then match it by aircraft and label, not by the size number\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwo questions sit behind every motor replacement, and they are often answered in the wrong order. The first is whether the motor is actually the fault. The second is which motor to fit. The size number in the name, 10015, answers neither.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs it the motor?\u003c\/strong\u003e The motor is the obvious suspect when the app reports a motor fault or an arm runs rough. It is the moving part and the part the warning names. It is also the last stop on a chain: propeller, propeller mounting, motor, phase connection, ESC. Several of those fail in ways that look like a motor fault.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClear these first, because they imitate a bad motor:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVibration or noise from one arm:\u003c\/strong\u003e look at the blades for chips, cracks or a bent tip, and at the propeller mounting for cracks or loose fixings. An unbalanced propeller makes a healthy motor sound rough.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA motor that will not start, or stops under load:\u003c\/strong\u003e look at the three phase contacts on the terminal block and at the wiring behind them, then at the ESC that drives this motor. A motor with one phase missing will twitch or refuse to spin, and that reads exactly like a dead motor.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA warning that comes and goes as the arm is moved:\u003c\/strong\u003e look at the phase connection and the arm wiring before the motor.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA warning on more than one arm at once:\u003c\/strong\u003e that is very rarely two motors failing together. Look at what those arms share.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSigns that point at the motor itself:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRoughness, grinding or clicking felt when the motor is turned slowly by hand with the propeller removed and the battery out\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePlay in the rotating part when it is rocked gently by hand\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA bent hub, a damaged stud or a cracked can after a strike\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eScorching, discolouration or a burnt smell from the motor after a flight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA phase terminal block that is cracked, melted or has a damaged contact\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA fault that stays with this motor after the propeller, mounting, phase connection and ESC have all been checked and found sound\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTurn it by hand before you condemn it.\u003c\/strong\u003e With the battery out and the propeller off, a healthy motor turns smoothly with a light, even cogging feel. A motor with a failing bearing feels gritty or catches at the same point every turn. Compare it with a motor on another arm; the difference is usually obvious once you have felt both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich motor?\u003c\/strong\u003e Once the motor is proven, match it by aircraft and by the label on the old motor, not by the number in its name. 10015 is a size designation. Brushless motor size designations describe the motor's build, not the aircraft it was made for, and different aircraft can carry motors with similar size names that differ in winding, hub, studs or terminal block. The aircraft name and the label on the removed motor are what settle the match.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eClear the free checks first, while that information is still cheap, and photograph the old motor's label before it goes in a box.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReplace the motor when inspection confirms one of these:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRough, gritty or notchy rotation by hand with the propeller off\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNoticeable play or wobble in the rotating part\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA cracked or deformed can, a bent central hub, or damaged threaded studs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eScorch marks, discolouration or a burnt smell after flight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA cracked, melted or loose phase terminal block, or a damaged phase contact\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIngress damage after a submersion or a heavy wash\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA motor fault that stays with the motor after the propeller, mounting, phase connection and ESC have been cleared\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInspect these first, because they produce similar symptoms:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe propeller blades on that arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe propeller mounting and its fixings\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe three phase contacts and the wiring that reaches them\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe ESC that drives this motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor protective shell, which can rub or rattle when cracked\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eResidue packed around the motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is no published service interval for this motor. It is replaced when it is damaged or worn, not on a calendar.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📐 Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProduct name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVariant:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent type:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brushless propulsion motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSize designation:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10015, as named in the part designation\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1 motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTop face:\u003c\/strong\u003e Central shaft hub with a bore, two threaded studs on round pads, small screws around the face, printed label on one pad\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePhase connection:\u003c\/strong\u003e Small black terminal block on the side of the can with three round contacts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColour:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDimensions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWeight:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKV rating:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical:\u003c\/strong\u003e Three-phase brushless motor driven by its ESC; power and voltage ratings not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRotation direction:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part; set by position on the aircraft, so match the label on the motor you removed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMounting position:\u003c\/strong\u003e End of an aircraft arm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstallation method:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fixed at the arm end with the aircraft's own fixings; phase contacts connected to the drive from the ESC\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propellers, propeller mounting hardware, motor protective shell, screws, ESC module, arm wiring\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService interval:\u003c\/strong\u003e None published\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None; the motor is sound or it is not, and no app setting compensates for a worn bearing or a damaged can\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClassification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🛠️ Installation \u0026amp; Maintenance\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBefore installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePower the aircraft down, remove the battery, and wait for the system to be fully off\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRinse the arm and let it dry so you are not working in spray residue\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWear gloves; chemical residue collects around the motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePhotograph the motor in place from two angles, including the terminal block side and how the wiring reaches it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePhotograph the label on the old motor and keep the photograph with the repair record\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemove the propeller and its mounting, and inspect both before going further\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDuring installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemove the motor protective shell if one is fitted, and set it aside without stressing its clips\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNote which phase lead goes to which contact before disconnecting anything; a labelled photograph is enough\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDisconnect the phase connection by its body, never by pulling on wires\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemove the motor from the arm end and keep the fixings together\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInspect the arm end for cracks, bends or fretting marks, and clean the mounting face so the new motor seats flat\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFit the new motor in the same orientation as your photographs show, with the terminal block on the same side\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTighten the fixings evenly in a cross pattern; no torque figure is published for this joint, so snug and even, not forced\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReconnect the three phases exactly as they were, and route the wiring clear of the propeller arc and sharp edges\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAfter installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTurn the new motor by hand; it should feel smooth and even\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRefit the protective shell, then the propeller mounting and the correct propeller for that arm position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePower up and check the app for motor or propulsion warnings\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMake a short, light test hover before loading the tank, and listen to each arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRecord the replacement, the arm position and the label photograph in the maintenance log\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaintenance between jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e Rinse the motors gently after spray days, keep residue from building up around the can and the terminal block, and turn each motor by hand at the end of the week. A motor that starts to feel different by hand is a motor you can plan around; a motor that tells you in the field takes the rest of the day with it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🚜 Necessary For\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis motor is for operators and technicians keeping a DJI Agras T20 in the air:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T20 operators with a motor confirmed worn or damaged\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCommercial spray applicators running the T20 across long seasons\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAgras service centres and repair technicians rebuilding an arm after a strike or a hard landing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFleet managers who keep a spare motor on the trailer for each T20\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGrowers flying their own T20 who want a known-good spare on hand for peak weeks\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is not the part you need if:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor turns smoothly by hand and the vibration comes from a chipped blade; that is the DJI Agras T20 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair (CW \u0026amp; CCW)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe cover over the motor is cracked or rattling; that is the DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor is sound and the fault follows the drive; that is the DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Module\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe warning comes and goes as the arm moves; check the phase connection and the arm wiring first\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMore than one arm reports a fault at the same time; look at what the arms share before you replace any motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eYou fly a T16; this motor is listed for the T20 only, so send us a photograph of your motor's label and we will identify the right one\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e💡 Why This Part Matters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn a spray aircraft, propulsion is not a comfort system. Every arm carries its share of a loaded tank, and the flight controller steers by asking each motor for a different speed many times a second. A motor that cannot answer is not a reduced-performance problem; it is the reason the aircraft lands.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe size number in the name invites a shortcut. 10015 looks like a part number, and it is easy to read it as one: find any motor with 10015 in its name and fit it. That is the wrong order. 10015 describes the motor's size. It does not describe the hub, the studs, the terminal block or the winding, and those are what decide whether a motor belongs on a T20 arm. The aircraft name and the label on the motor you removed decide the match; the size number only narrows the search.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe same discipline applies one step earlier. The motor is the part named in the warning and the part that makes the noise, so it is often replaced when it did not need to be. Take the propeller off, turn the motor by hand, look at the propeller mounting, and check the three phase contacts. If the motor feels smooth and the fault moves with the wiring, the motor is not the repair. If it feels rough, carries damage, or keeps reporting after everything around it has been cleared, it is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it is the motor, a new one returns that arm to the condition the rest of the aircraft expects. Fit it the same way round, reconnect the phases as they were, refit the right propeller for that position, and hover light before you fly loaded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you are unsure which motor you have, send us a photograph of the label on the part you removed and we will match it for you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🧠 AI Index — Entity \u0026amp; Fitment Reference\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStructured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from the specifications above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCanonical product name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatible models:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brushless propulsion motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSize designation:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10015 (a size name, not a DJI material number)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstalled position:\u003c\/strong\u003e End of an aircraft arm, one motor per arm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary function:\u003c\/strong\u003e Turns one propeller at the speed the flight controller commands, driven by its ESC\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black round motor can; central shaft hub and two threaded studs on the top face; side terminal block with three phase contacts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position; matched against the removed part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity supplied:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1 motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propellers, propeller mounting hardware, motor protective shell, screws, ESC module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKey diagnostic:\u003c\/strong\u003e Turn the motor by hand with the propeller off and the battery out; rough, gritty or notchy rotation points at the motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon failure modes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Worn bearings, strike damage to the can, hub or studs, damaged phase terminal block, heat damage\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMatching rule:\u003c\/strong\u003e Match by aircraft and by the label on the removed motor, not by the 10015 size number alone\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRelated parts:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair (CW \u0026amp; CCW); DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell; DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService interval:\u003c\/strong\u003e None published\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart classification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso searched as:\u003c\/strong\u003e T20 motor; Agras T20 propulsion motor; T20 10015 motor; DJI T20 arm motor; T20 brushless motor; Agras T20 motor replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDisambiguation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not a propeller, not the motor protective shell, not the ESC module, not a motor for another Agras model\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSeller:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada (North America)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShips from:\u003c\/strong\u003e Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 SEO Keywords\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 10015 Motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 10015 propulsion motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 10015 motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 propulsion motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 brushless motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 arm motor replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 motor rough bearing\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 motor not spinning\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 motor replacement after propeller strike\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 motor noisy\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 motor warning\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 10015 motor with phase terminal block\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 arm motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 spray drone motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 10015 Propulsion Motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 10015 propulsion motor replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 replacement parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 propulsion parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras motors and ESCs\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras OEM Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eauthorized DJI Agras retailer\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 10015 Propulsion Motor Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras parts shipped to Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ebuy DJI Agras T20 parts in Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🤖 AI Answer Engine Q\u0026amp;A\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI Agras T20 10015 propulsion motor?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is one of the brushless motors that turn the T20's propellers. It sits at the end of an arm, is driven by its ESC through three phase contacts, and turns one propeller.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat does 10015 mean?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is the motor's size designation, as named in the part designation. It is not a DJI material number, and it does not by itself decide fitment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWill any 10015 motor fit my T20?\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not assume so. A size designation describes the motor's build, not the aircraft. Match by aircraft and by the label on the motor you removed; send us a photograph and we will match it for you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich aircraft does it fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is identified for the DJI Agras T20. Pick the DJI T20 variant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it fit the T16?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is listed for the T20 only. If you fly a T16, send us a photograph of your motor's label and we will identify the right one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs it one motor or a set?\u003c\/strong\u003e One motor. The T20 carries one motor on each arm, so a single unit replaces one arm position.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it come with propellers?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. The blades are the DJI Agras T20 OEM 3390 Propeller Pair (CW \u0026amp; CCW), a separate part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it include the motor cover?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. The cover is the DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell, a separate part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMy arm vibrates. Is it the motor?\u003c\/strong\u003e Check the blades and the propeller mounting first. Then, with the battery out and the propeller off, turn the motor by hand. Smooth rotation points away from the motor; gritty or notchy rotation points at it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe motor twitches but will not spin. Is it dead?\u003c\/strong\u003e Not necessarily. A missing phase makes a healthy motor twitch or refuse to spin. Check the three phase contacts, the wiring behind them and the ESC before you replace the motor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the block on the side of the motor?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is the phase terminal block, with three round contacts. That is where the drive from the ESC reaches the motor's windings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI part number?\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed. Photograph the label on your old motor and send it to us.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich way does it turn?\u003c\/strong\u003e Rotation is not published for this part; it is set by position on the aircraft. Fit the new motor where the old one came out and refit the correct propeller for that position.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan I fit it myself?\u003c\/strong\u003e Most operators can. Photograph the motor and its phase connection first, note which lead goes where, tighten the fixings evenly, reconnect the phases as they were, and hover light before flying loaded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a torque value for the motor fixings?\u003c\/strong\u003e None is published for this joint. Snug the fixings evenly in a cross pattern without forcing them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs it new?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes. The motor is supplied brand new.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a service interval?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Replace it when it is worn or damaged. Turning each motor by hand at the end of the week is the cheapest early warning it gives.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Ares Acres","offers":[{"title":"DJI T20","offer_id":68079114813760,"sku":null,"price":499.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0923\/0159\/0848\/files\/dji-agras-t20-oem-10015-propulsion-motor-1.png?v=1794323970"},{"product_id":"dji-agras-t20-oem-esc-module","title":"DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Module","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Module is the electronic speed controller that drives one of the propulsion motors on the DJI Agras T20 and T16 spray aircraft. ESC stands for electronic speed controller: the module takes power and speed commands from the aircraft and switches that power into the motor's three phases so the motor turns at the speed the flight controller asks for. It is a propulsion-system part, identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16, and it is supplied brand new as a single sealed module in a black rectangular housing with screw ears, a heat-warning label, a finned section, and terminals and connector entries at its ends, as shown in the product images. Operators usually look for it as a T20 ESC, a T16 ESC, an Agras T20 motor controller or a T16 T20 electric control module after a motor or propulsion warning in the app, a motor that will not start on one arm, or a module that has run hot. DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFREE \u0026amp; FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres also ships agricultural drone parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e✅ DJI Agras T20 \/ DJI Agras T16 Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e🇺🇸 USA Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e👍🏻 Satisfaction Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e💵 Money Back Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e📦 Same Day Shipping \u0026amp; Tracking\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIdentified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16 propulsion system, one module per motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMatched by housing outline, screw ears, terminal layout and connector entries against the module you removed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine DJI OEM ESC module, brand new\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePhotograph the module you removed from above, with its terminal ends and any label in view, and send it to us. We will match it for you, so the right module arrives first time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📦 Package Includes\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 × DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Module, as shown in the product images\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOne module, one motor.\u003c\/strong\u003e An ESC drives one motor. A single module replaces one ESC position; it is not a set for every arm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat it is:\u003c\/strong\u003e the complete module in its sealed black housing, with its terminals, screw ears and connector entries, as one unit. It is not a bare circuit board, and it is not a motor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot included: the propulsion motor, the motor protective shell, arm wiring or cables, mounting screws, terminal screws beyond those fitted to the module, thermal pads, and any frame or arm hardware. Each of these is a separate part or stays with the aircraft.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf the fault is proven to be the motor, that is the DJI Agras T20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor. If the cover over the motor is cracked, that is the DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNothing is included because it appears in a photograph. If an image shows anything not named above, it is not part of the module.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔧 Component Overview\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA brushless motor cannot run on its own. It needs something to switch power through its three windings in the right sequence, at the right moment, thousands of times a second. On the Agras T20 and T16 that job belongs to the ESC module. Each motor has its own, and each module answers to the flight controller.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs shown in the product images, the module is a black, rectangular, sealed housing. Its working features:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo terminals marked − and +\u003c\/strong\u003e at one end, where power reaches the module\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA heat-warning label\u003c\/strong\u003e on the upper face, a triangle with the hot-surface symbol and a high-temperature caution\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA finned section\u003c\/strong\u003e across the middle of the housing, where heat leaves the module\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA row of three screw terminals\u003c\/strong\u003e across the body, consistent with the three phases a brushless motor needs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eScrew ears\u003c\/strong\u003e along the sides, where the module fixes to the aircraft\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eConnector and wire entries\u003c\/strong\u003e at the ends\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere it sits and what it touches:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePosition:\u003c\/strong\u003e on the propulsion side of the aircraft, one module per motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUpstream:\u003c\/strong\u003e the aircraft's power supply and the flight controller's speed command\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDownstream:\u003c\/strong\u003e the three phases of one propulsion motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSystem:\u003c\/strong\u003e propulsion, alongside the motors, the arm wiring, the propellers and their mounting\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn ESC on a spray aircraft does its work in heat, vibration and chemical mist. Over a season it sees:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHigh current every time the aircraft lifts a loaded tank\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRapid changes in demand as the flight controller steers by motor speed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHeat from its own switching, added to afternoon sun and back-to-back sorties\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpray drift and residue settling on the housing and in the fins\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRinse water at the end of the day\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eVibration through the frame on every flight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShock from hard landings and propeller strikes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModules in this position are usually replaced for one of a handful of reasons: a module that has failed outright and will not drive its motor, one that cuts out under load or after it has run hot, terminal or housing damage from a strike, or ingress after a heavy wash or a submersion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚙️ Functional Purpose\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe ESC's engineering role is translation. The flight controller decides how fast each motor should turn. The ESC turns that decision into switched current in the motor's three windings, so the motor actually reaches that speed and holds it under load.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the propulsion system it:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTakes power in at its − and + terminals\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTakes the speed command for its motor from the aircraft\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSwitches current through the motor's three phases in sequence\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFollows fast changes in demand as the aircraft climbs, turns and holds position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSheds the heat of that switching through its finned housing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBecause the aircraft steers by changing motor speeds, every ESC matters to the whole aircraft. A module that cannot drive its motor takes that arm out of the flight controller's hands, whatever condition the motor is in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the ESC does not do matters as much:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not turn the propeller; the motor does\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not decide motor speed; the flight controller does\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not cure a motor with worn bearings or a damaged can\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not cure vibration from a chipped blade or loose propeller mounting\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not cool itself if its fins are buried in residue; that is maintenance\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 Diagnosis — the warning names the motor, but the ESC is what drives it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen one arm stops pulling its weight, the app talks about the motor. The motor is what the operator sees not turning, and it is what the warning names. But a motor only turns because its ESC drives it. A module that has stopped switching one phase, or stopped switching altogether, produces exactly the symptoms of a dead motor, and the motor gets replaced first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe question to settle:\u003c\/strong\u003e is the motor failing to turn, or failing to be driven? Both look the same from the field. They are easy to tell apart on the bench.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSigns that point away from the motor and toward the ESC:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor turns smoothly and evenly by hand with the propeller off and the battery out\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor twitches, stutters or refuses to spin when commanded, yet feels perfect by hand\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe arm cuts out after the module has been working hard on a hot day, then recovers once it cools\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eScorching, discolouration or a burnt smell at the module rather than at the motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA cracked housing, a damaged terminal or residue inside the module after a wash\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA fault that stays at this position after a known-good motor has been fitted there\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCheck the motor's windings with a meter.\u003c\/strong\u003e With the battery out, disconnect the motor's three phases from the ESC and measure resistance between each pair of phase contacts on the motor. A healthy brushless motor reads the same, low value on all three pairs. If the three readings match and the motor turns smoothly by hand, the motor is very unlikely to be the fault, and the drive is the next suspect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClear these first, because they imitate a bad ESC:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA loose or corroded phase or power connection:\u003c\/strong\u003e an ESC cannot drive through a bad joint, and the module gets the blame\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA damaged arm cable:\u003c\/strong\u003e a chafed or crushed run behaves like an intermittent module\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA motor with a shorted winding:\u003c\/strong\u003e uneven meter readings point at the motor, not the module\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFins packed with residue:\u003c\/strong\u003e a healthy module that cannot shed heat will cut out like a failing one; clean and retest\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA fault on more than one arm at once:\u003c\/strong\u003e look at what the arms share, such as power supply and wiring, before condemning several modules\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eClear the free checks first, while that information is still cheap. A meter, a minute turning the motor by hand, and a look at the connections usually tell you which of the two parts the warning is really about.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReplace the ESC module when inspection confirms one of these:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe module will not drive a motor whose windings measure even and that turns smoothly by hand\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe fault stays at this ESC position after a known-good motor has been fitted\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRepeated cut-outs under load with clean fins and sound connections\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eScorch marks, discolouration, swelling or a burnt smell at the module\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA cracked housing, a broken screw ear or a damaged terminal\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLiquid or residue inside the module after a wash or a submersion\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInspect these first, because they produce similar symptoms:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor on that arm, by hand and with a meter\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe three phase connections between module and motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe power connections at the − and + terminals\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe arm wiring and any cable that flexes with the arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eResidue in the module's fins\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe propeller blades and mounting, if the complaint is vibration rather than loss of drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is no published service interval for this module. It is replaced when it has failed or been damaged, not on a calendar.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📐 Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProduct name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary aircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso listed for:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVariants:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI T20; DJI T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent type:\u003c\/strong\u003e Electronic speed controller (ESC) module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1 module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black rectangular sealed housing with screw ears, a finned section, a heat-warning label, terminals and connector entries at its ends\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTerminals:\u003c\/strong\u003e Two marked − and + at one end; a row of three screw terminals across the body\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColour:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDimensions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWeight:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drives one three-phase brushless propulsion motor; current and voltage ratings not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCooling:\u003c\/strong\u003e Finned housing; keep the fins clear of residue\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMounting position:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion side of the aircraft, one module per motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstallation method:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fixed through its screw ears; power and phase connections made at its terminals\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Motor, motor protective shell, arm wiring, mounting screws, thermal pads\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService interval:\u003c\/strong\u003e None published\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None; the module drives its motor correctly or it does not, and no app setting compensates for a failed module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClassification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion electronics\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🛠️ Installation \u0026amp; Maintenance\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBefore installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePower the aircraft down, remove the battery, and wait for the system to be fully off before touching any terminal\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRinse and dry the area around the module so you are not working in spray residue\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eProve the fault: turn the motor by hand and meter its three phases, so you know the module is the part to change\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePhotograph the old module in place from above and from each end, with every wire and terminal in view\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLabel the three phase leads and the − and + leads before anything is disconnected\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLay the new module beside the old one and compare outline, screw ears, terminals and connector entries\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDuring installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDisconnect power first, then the phase leads, then any signal connection, holding connectors by their bodies\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUnfasten the module at its screw ears and lift it out without levering against the wiring\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInspect the mounting face and clean away residue so the new module seats flat\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSeat the new module in the same orientation as your photographs show\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFasten the screw ears evenly; no torque figure is published for these fixings, so snug them without cracking the housing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReconnect the − and + leads to the matching terminals, then the three phases exactly as labelled, then any signal connection\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRoute wiring as it was, clear of the propeller arc, hot surfaces and sharp edges\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAfter installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCheck every terminal is tight and every connector fully seated before fitting the battery\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePower up and check the app for motor, ESC or propulsion warnings\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWith the propeller off and the aircraft secured, confirm the motor responds where the app allows a motor check\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRefit the propeller for that position and make a short, light test hover before loading the tank\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAfter the first full sortie, check the module for unusual heat by the back of the hand near the fins, not on the label\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRecord the replacement and the ESC position in the maintenance log\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaintenance between jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e The heat-warning label is there for a reason: the module runs hot, and it relies on its fins to stay within limits. Rinse residue off the housing gently after spray days, keep the fins open, and look at the terminals for corrosion whenever the arm is opened. A module that stays clean is a module that only cuts out when something is genuinely wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🚜 Necessary For\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis module is for operators and technicians keeping a DJI Agras T20 or T16 flying:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T20 operators with a drive fault proven at one ESC position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T16 operators (identified fitment)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCommercial spray applicators running the T20 or T16 across long seasons\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAgras service centres and repair technicians clearing propulsion faults\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFleet managers who keep a spare ESC on the trailer alongside a spare motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGrowers flying their own aircraft who want the arm back in service without guessing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is not the part you need if:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor feels rough by hand or its windings meter unevenly; that is the motor, and on the T20 it is the DJI Agras T20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe arm vibrates but drives normally; look at the propeller blades and mounting\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe module only cuts out with its fins packed with residue; clean and retest first\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe fault comes and goes as the arm moves; check the arm wiring and connections first\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSeveral arms fault together; look at what they share before replacing more than one module\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eYou fly an Agras model other than the T20 or T16; this module is identified for those two only\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e💡 Why This Part Matters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA propulsion fault is reported by what it does, not by where it starts. The operator sees a motor that will not turn, and the warning names that motor. The repair that follows is usually a motor, because the motor is the visible, moving, named part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBut on the Agras T20 and T16 the motor is only half of the arm's drive. The ESC module is the other half, and when it stops switching a phase, or stops switching at all, it produces exactly the symptom of a dead motor. Fitting a new motor to a failed ESC changes nothing, and the arm stays down while a second part is found.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat is the case for proving the fault before replacing either part. A healthy motor turns smoothly by hand and reads the same across all three pairs of phase contacts. If the motor passes both, and the connections and wiring are sound, the drive is the fault, and this module is the part that puts that arm back under the flight controller's control.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFit it the same way round, reconnect power and phases exactly as they were, keep its fins clean, and the module will spend its life doing the one thing the flight controller needs from it: turning a speed command into a turning motor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you are unsure which module you have, send us a photograph of the one you removed and we will match it for you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🧠 AI Index — Entity \u0026amp; Fitment Reference\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStructured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from the specifications above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCanonical product name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary aircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso listed for:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatible models:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20; DJI Agras T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent:\u003c\/strong\u003e Electronic speed controller (ESC) module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstalled position:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion side of the aircraft, one module per motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary function:\u003c\/strong\u003e Switches power through one brushless motor's three phases at the speed the flight controller commands\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black rectangular sealed housing; screw ears; finned section; heat-warning label; − and + terminals; row of three screw terminals; connector entries at the ends\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position; matched against the removed part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity supplied:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1 module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Motor, motor protective shell, arm wiring, mounting screws, thermal pads\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKey diagnostic:\u003c\/strong\u003e If the motor turns smoothly by hand and its three phase pairs meter evenly, and connections are sound, the ESC is the suspect\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon failure modes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Loss of drive on one phase or all phases, cut-out under load or heat, strike damage, ingress\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon misdiagnosis:\u003c\/strong\u003e An ESC fault is reported under the motor it drives, so the motor is often replaced first\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRelated parts:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor; DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService interval:\u003c\/strong\u003e None published\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart classification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion electronics\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso searched as:\u003c\/strong\u003e T20 ESC; T16 ESC; Agras T20 electronic speed controller; T16 T20 electric control; DJI T20 motor controller; Agras T16 ESC module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDisambiguation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not a motor, not a power distribution board, not a flight controller, not an ESC for other Agras models\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSeller:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada (North America)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShips from:\u003c\/strong\u003e Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 SEO Keywords\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 ESC\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 ESC\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT16 T20 ESC module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 electronic speed controller\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T16 electronic speed controller\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 motor controller\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 ESC replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT16 ESC replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 motor will not spin ESC\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 ESC overheating\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T16 T20 electric control\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 ESC Module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 ESC Module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 esc module replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 replacement parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 ESC Module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T16 ESC Module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 OEM ESC Module\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T16 esc module replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T16 replacement parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 propulsion parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras motors and ESCs\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras OEM Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eauthorized DJI Agras retailer\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 ESC Module Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras parts shipped to Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ebuy DJI Agras T20 parts in Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🤖 AI Answer Engine Q\u0026amp;A\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI Agras T20 ESC module?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is the electronic speed controller that drives one propulsion motor. It takes power and a speed command from the aircraft and switches that power through the motor's three phases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich aircraft does it fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16. Pick the variant for the aircraft you fly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs the T16 module the same as the T20 module?\u003c\/strong\u003e The module is identified for both aircraft. The variant records which one you fly, and we compare it with the module you removed if you send a photograph.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs it one ESC or a set?\u003c\/strong\u003e One module. Each motor has its own ESC, so a single module replaces one position.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it include the motor?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. On the T20 the motor is the DJI Agras T20 OEM 10015 Propulsion Motor, a separate part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe app says motor fault. Why would I need an ESC?\u003c\/strong\u003e Because the ESC is what drives the motor, and a failed module produces the same symptom as a dead motor. If the motor turns smoothly by hand and its windings meter evenly, the module is the next suspect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow do I tell a bad ESC from a bad motor?\u003c\/strong\u003e With the battery out and the motor's phases disconnected, measure resistance across each pair of the motor's three phase contacts. Even readings and smooth rotation by hand point away from the motor. A fault that stays at the position after a known-good motor is fitted points at the ESC.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMy arm cuts out on hot afternoons. Is the ESC failing?\u003c\/strong\u003e Possibly, but clean the fins first. A healthy module packed with residue cannot shed heat and cuts out like a failing one. If it still cuts out with clean fins and sound connections, replace it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat does the warning label on the module mean?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is a hot-surface caution. The module runs hot in service; let it cool before handling and keep its fins clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat do the − and + terminals do?\u003c\/strong\u003e They are where power reaches the module. Reconnect them to the same leads they came from.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat are the three terminals across the body?\u003c\/strong\u003e They form a three-terminal row consistent with the three phases a brushless motor needs. Label the leads before disconnecting and reconnect them in the same order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI part number?\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed. Photograph your old module and send it to us.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it come with screws or cables?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. The module is supplied on its own. Reuse sound original fixings and wiring, or replace damaged ones separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan I fit it myself?\u003c\/strong\u003e Most technicians can. Prove the fault first, photograph and label every connection, disconnect power before anything else, refit in the same orientation, and hover light before flying loaded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs it new?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes. The module is supplied brand new.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a service interval?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Replace it when it has failed or been damaged. Keeping its fins clean is the maintenance that matters.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Ares Acres","offers":[{"title":"DJI T20","offer_id":68079137685824,"sku":null,"price":399.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"DJI T16","offer_id":68079137718592,"sku":null,"price":399.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0923\/0159\/0848\/files\/dji-agras-t20-oem-esc-module-1.png?v=1794323976"},{"product_id":"dji-agras-t20-oem-esc-composite-cable","title":"DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Composite Cable","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Composite Cable is the braided multi-branch wiring harness that connects the electronic speed controllers (ESCs) into the rest of the DJI Agras T20 spray aircraft. It is a propulsion-system cable: several runs in black braided sleeving gathered into one harness, splitting at the ends into separate branches that finish in red connectors at one end and white plug connectors, black connector bodies and gold terminals at the other, with thinner unsleeved black leads and small white plugs branching off along the way, as shown in the product images. A composite cable carries more than one kind of connection in a single harness, so one assembly does the work of several separate cables between the aircraft and its ESCs. It is identified for the DJI Agras T20 and supplied brand new as one complete harness. Operators usually look for it as a T20 ESC cable, a T20 ESC harness, an Agras T20 ESC wiring harness or a T20 composite cable after an ESC or motor fault that a new ESC did not clear, a chafed or crushed braided run, or a damaged connector at a branch end. DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFREE \u0026amp; FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres also ships agricultural drone parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e✅ DJI Agras T20 Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e🇺🇸 USA Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e👍🏻 Satisfaction Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e💵 Money Back Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e📦 Same Day Shipping \u0026amp; Tracking\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIdentified for the DJI Agras T20, ESC wiring position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMatched by branch count, braided runs, connector types and colours at each branch end against the harness you removed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine DJI OEM propulsion-system cable, brand new\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLay the harness you removed out flat, photograph it so every branch end and its connector is in view, and send it to us. We will match it for you, so the right harness arrives first time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📦 Package Includes\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 × DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Composite Cable, complete multi-branch harness, as shown in the product images\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOne harness.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cable is a single assembly with all of its branches. It is not a set of separate cables, and it is not one branch sold on its own.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is part of the cable:\u003c\/strong\u003e the braided black runs, the branch splits, the red connectors, the white plug connectors, the black connector bodies and gold terminals at the branch ends, and the thinner unsleeved black leads with their small white plugs, as shown in the product images.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot included: the ESC modules, the motors, the power distribution board, the flight controller, cable ties, clips, mounting hardware, arm covers or shells, and any other cable in the aircraft. Each of these is a separate part or stays with the aircraft.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNothing is included because it appears in a photograph. If an image shows anything not named above, it is not part of the cable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔧 Component Overview\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe ESC is the part people talk about. It is the box that drives a motor, it carries a heat-warning label, and when a motor misbehaves it is the first thing anyone suspects. But an ESC is only as good as the wiring that reaches it. On the Agras T20 that wiring arrives as one harness: the ESC composite cable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs shown in the product images, the harness has four features that identify it:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe braided runs\u003c\/strong\u003e — several cable runs, each in black braided sleeving, gathered side by side into one bundle\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe red connectors\u003c\/strong\u003e — a group of red connectors where the braided runs split into branches at one end\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe white plugs, black connector bodies and gold terminals\u003c\/strong\u003e — at the other end, the runs finish in small white plug connectors, black connector bodies and gold terminal pins\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe thin unsleeved leads\u003c\/strong\u003e — thinner black leads without braiding, branching off the harness and ending in small white plugs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere it sits and what it touches:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePosition:\u003c\/strong\u003e inside the airframe, running between the aircraft's central electronics and the ESCs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAt one end:\u003c\/strong\u003e the ESCs and the circuits around them\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAt the other end:\u003c\/strong\u003e the aircraft side of the propulsion wiring\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSystem:\u003c\/strong\u003e propulsion, the wiring layer between the aircraft and the parts that drive its motors\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA harness in this position lives a harder life than its sleeving suggests. Over a season it sees:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eVibration from every motor on every flight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFlexing wherever the airframe is opened, folded or worked on\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eChafing where a run passes an edge, a clip or another part\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHeat from the ESCs and power electronics around it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpray residue and rinse water that reach connector bodies and pins\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRepeated plugging and unplugging during other repairs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHarnesses like this are usually replaced for one of a few reasons: a run chafed or crushed through its braiding, a broken conductor inside an intact-looking run, a cracked or melted connector at a branch end, a pin pushed back or corroded, or damage from an arm or airframe strike.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚙️ Functional Purpose\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cable's engineering role is connection. It brings the ESCs into the aircraft's wiring as one organised harness, so every ESC connection runs along a fixed, sleeved route and ends in a connector that only plugs in one way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the propulsion system it:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarries connections between the aircraft and its ESCs in one harness\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBundles several runs in braided sleeving, so they route and wear together\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSplits at its ends into separate branches, each finishing in its own connector\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUses different connector types and colours, so each branch has its own place\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLets the ESCs and the harness be replaced separately, each at its own connectors\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBecause the cable sits between the aircraft and the ESC, a fault in it is reported as a fault at the ESC or the motor. The app has no separate idea of the wire. A broken conductor, a pin that has backed out of its connector or a branch that only loses contact under vibration all look, from the operator's side, like an ESC or a motor that has stopped doing its job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the cable does not do matters as much:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not control motor speed; the ESC does\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not turn the propeller; the motor does\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not distribute the aircraft's main power; the power distribution board does\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not decide anything; it only carries what the aircraft and the ESCs send through it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 Diagnosis — if a new ESC brings the old fault back, look at the wire that feeds it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn ESC or motor warning points at the ESC. That is what the app names, and the ESC is a self-contained module that is easy to swap. So the usual first repair is a new ESC, and very often it is the right one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSometimes it is not. A new ESC goes in, the aircraft powers up, and the same warning comes back on the same position, sometimes at once and sometimes only after the aircraft has flown and vibrated for a while. When that happens the ESC has been tested by replacement and cleared. What it shares with the old one is the wiring that reaches it, and on the T20 that wiring is this harness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMake the test deliberate, not accidental.\u003c\/strong\u003e Before fitting a new ESC, check the harness. After fitting one, read the result:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe fault moves with the old ESC to another position:\u003c\/strong\u003e the ESC is the problem\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe fault stays on its position with a new or known-good ESC fitted:\u003c\/strong\u003e the harness branch to that position is the suspect\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe fault comes and goes when the harness is flexed or the aircraft vibrates:\u003c\/strong\u003e a conductor or pin in the harness is losing contact\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSigns that point at the harness:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBraiding worn through, flattened or cut on a run\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA run that is kinked, crushed or pinched at a clip or edge\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA red, white or black connector cracked, melted or heat-darkened\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA gold terminal pin bent, pushed back or corroded\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA thin unsleeved lead cut or pulled from its plug\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA fault that changes when the harness is moved by hand with the aircraft powered on the bench\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClear these first, because they imitate a bad harness:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA connector not fully seated:\u003c\/strong\u003e unplug and re-seat every branch on the faulting position and retest\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eResidue in a connector:\u003c\/strong\u003e clean and dry the connector bodies and pins, then retest\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe ESC itself:\u003c\/strong\u003e move it to another position if the aircraft allows, and see whether the fault follows\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe motor:\u003c\/strong\u003e a damaged motor or its own leads can report as an ESC fault\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCheck the harness first, while that information is still cheap. A five-minute look along the braided runs can save a second ESC that would not have fixed anything.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReplace the ESC composite cable when inspection confirms one of these:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA braided run chafed, cut or crushed through its sleeving\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA conductor broken inside a run, shown by a fault that changes when the run is flexed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA connector at a branch end cracked, melted or heat-darkened\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA terminal pin bent, pushed back or corroded\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA thin unsleeved lead cut, crushed or pulled from its plug\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe same ESC or motor fault on one position after a new or known-good ESC has been fitted\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInspect these first, because they produce similar symptoms:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe seating of every connector on the faulting position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe ESC, by moving it to another position where possible\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor and its own leads\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eResidue or corrosion inside the connector bodies\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eClips and edges along the harness route\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is no published service interval for this cable. It is replaced when a run, branch or connector is damaged, not on a calendar.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📐 Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProduct name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Composite Cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eModel:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVariant:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion — ESC wiring\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent type:\u003c\/strong\u003e Multi-branch composite wiring harness\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1 complete harness\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Several cable runs in black braided sleeving, splitting at the ends into branches with red connectors, white plug connectors, black connector bodies and gold terminals, plus thin unsleeved black leads with small white plugs\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColour:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black braided sleeving; red, white and black connectors; gold terminals\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLength:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNumber of branches:\u003c\/strong\u003e As shown in the product images; matched against the harness you removed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWeight:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carries the ESC connections between the aircraft and its ESCs; current and voltage ratings not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConnector:\u003c\/strong\u003e Red connectors at one end; white plug connectors, black connector bodies and gold terminals at the other; small white plugs on the thin leads\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMounting position:\u003c\/strong\u003e Inside the airframe, between the aircraft's central electronics and the ESCs\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstallation method:\u003c\/strong\u003e Plug-in at each branch connector; routed along the original path and held by the aircraft's own clips\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e ESC modules, motors, power distribution board, cable ties, clips, mounting hardware, arm covers or shells\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService interval:\u003c\/strong\u003e None published\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None; a conductor is continuous or it is not, and no app setting compensates for a broken wire\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClassification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion-system component\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🛠️ Installation \u0026amp; Maintenance\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBefore installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemove the flight battery and power the aircraft fully down\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConfirm the harness is the fault: a warning that stays on its position with a known-good ESC fitted, or visible damage along a run or at a connector\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRinse and dry the airframe around the harness, then let it dry completely\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePhotograph the old harness in place from several angles, with every run's route, every clip and every connection in view\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLabel each branch end and the connector it plugs into\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLay the new harness beside the old one and compare the number of runs, the branch splits and every connector\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDuring installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUnplug each connector by its body, never by pulling the cable\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRelease the harness from the aircraft's clips without cutting or stretching the braiding\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLift the old harness out along its route, noting every pass-through and edge\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInspect the route for the sharp edge, clip or pinch point that damaged the old harness, and deal with it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLay the new harness along the same route, with each branch at its own position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePlug each branch into its labelled connector until it seats fully\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRefit the harness to the aircraft's clips so no run is tight, twisted or touching a moving or hot part\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCheck that every thin unsleeved lead is plugged in and routed clear\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAfter installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCheck every connector for full seating before a battery goes in\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInsert a known-good battery and power up\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConfirm the app shows no ESC, motor or propulsion warnings\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGently move the harness by hand with the aircraft powered on the bench and confirm no warning appears\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMake a short, light test hover, then inspect the harness route and connectors\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRecord the replacement in the maintenance log\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaintenance between jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e Whenever the airframe is open, run a hand along the braided runs and look for flattened, shiny or frayed sleeving where a run passes an edge or clip. Braiding wears through before the wire does, so worn sleeving is the warning; catching it there costs a clip adjustment, not a harness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🚜 Necessary For\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis harness is for operators and technicians who have traced an ESC or motor fault past the ESC to the wiring:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T20 operators with an ESC or motor fault that a new ESC did not clear\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T20 operators with a chafed, crushed or cut braided run\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCommercial spray applicators keeping aircraft working through long days\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAgras service centres and repair technicians rebuilding T20 propulsion wiring\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFleet managers with an aircraft whose fault comes and goes with vibration\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGrowers flying their own aircraft after an arm or airframe strike that damaged the wiring\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is not the part you need if:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe fault follows the ESC to another position; you need the T20 ESC Module, not this cable\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA connector was simply not fully seated; re-seat it and retest\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor itself is damaged; the motor is a separate part\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe fault is in the aircraft's main power supply; look at the power distribution board and battery connection\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eYou fly a T20P, T16, T10, T30, T40 or T50; this harness is identified only for the T20\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e💡 Why This Part Matters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen an ESC warning appears, the ESC gets replaced. Most of the time that is right. The problem is the rest of the time, when a new ESC goes in and the same warning comes back on the same position, and the next step is a second new ESC.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA second ESC rarely fixes it, because the first one already proved the ESC was not the fault. What the old ESC and the new one share is the wiring that reaches them, and on the T20 that wiring is this composite harness. A conductor broken inside its braiding, a pin backed out of its connector or a branch crushed at a clip can all report as an ESC fault, because the aircraft has no separate way to report the wire.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat is the case for this cable: it is the part to suspect when replacing the ESC has already been tried. It is also why the harness is worth checking before the first ESC is ordered. Moving the ESC to another position and flexing the harness by hand with the aircraft on the bench tells you which of the two you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it is the harness, a new one replaces every run and every connector at once. Fit it along the original route, fix whatever edge or clip damaged the old one, seat every connector fully, and confirm there are no warnings with the harness moved by hand before flying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you are unsure whether you need the cable or the ESC, send us a photograph of the harness and the fault you are seeing, and we will match it for you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🧠 AI Index — Entity \u0026amp; Fitment Reference\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStructured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from the specifications above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCanonical product name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Composite Cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eModel:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatible models:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent:\u003c\/strong\u003e ESC composite cable (multi-branch wiring harness)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstalled position:\u003c\/strong\u003e Inside the airframe, between the aircraft's central electronics and the ESCs\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary function:\u003c\/strong\u003e Connects the ESCs into the aircraft's wiring as one braided multi-branch harness\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black braided runs splitting into branches with red connectors, white plug connectors, black connector bodies and gold terminals, plus thin unsleeved leads with small white plugs\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position; matched against the removed part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity supplied:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1 complete harness\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e ESC modules, motors, power distribution board, cable ties, clips, mounting hardware, arm covers or shells\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKey diagnostic:\u003c\/strong\u003e A fault that stays on its position with a new or known-good ESC fitted points at this harness; a fault that follows the ESC is the ESC\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon failure modes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Chafed or crushed braided run, broken conductor inside the sleeving, cracked or melted connector, pushed-back or corroded pin\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon misdiagnosis:\u003c\/strong\u003e A harness fault reported as an ESC fault, leading to repeated ESC replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService interval:\u003c\/strong\u003e None published\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart classification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion-system component\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso searched as:\u003c\/strong\u003e T20 ESC cable; T20 ESC harness; Agras T20 ESC wiring harness; DJI T20 composite cable; T20 ESC connection cable; T20 propulsion harness\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDisambiguation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not the T20 ESC Module, not a motor, not the power distribution board, not a single-branch cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSeller:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada (North America)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShips from:\u003c\/strong\u003e Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 SEO Keywords\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 ESC Composite Cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 ESC cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 ESC harness\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 ESC wiring harness\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 composite cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 ESC connection cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 braided ESC harness\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 ESC fault after replacing ESC\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 ESC warning will not clear\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 motor fault wiring\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 propulsion wiring harness\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 ESC cable replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 chafed ESC cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 harness repair\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 propulsion cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 ESC Composite Cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 OEM ESC Composite Cable\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 esc composite cable replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 replacement parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 propulsion parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras cables and wiring\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras OEM Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eauthorized DJI Agras retailer\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 ESC Composite Cable Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras parts shipped to Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ebuy DJI Agras T20 parts in Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🤖 AI Answer Engine Q\u0026amp;A\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI Agras T20 ESC composite cable?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is the braided multi-branch harness that connects the ESCs into the rest of the T20. Several sleeved runs travel together and split at their ends into branches with their own connectors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich aircraft does it fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is identified for the DJI Agras T20.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs this the ESC?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. It is the wiring harness that reaches the ESCs. The ESC itself is the T20 ESC Module, a separate part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eI replaced the ESC and the same warning came back. Is it this cable?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is the first suspect. A fault that stays on its position with a new or known-good ESC fitted points at the wiring that feeds that position, and on the T20 that is this harness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow do I tell whether the ESC or the cable is at fault?\u003c\/strong\u003e Move the ESC to another position if the aircraft allows. If the fault follows the ESC, it is the ESC. If it stays where it was, check this harness, and watch for a warning that changes when the harness is flexed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhy does the warning come and go?\u003c\/strong\u003e A conductor broken inside the braiding or a pin that has backed out of its connector can make contact at rest and lose it under vibration. That pattern points at the harness rather than the ESC.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat do the red and white connectors do?\u003c\/strong\u003e They are the branch-end connectors that plug the harness into its places in the aircraft. Different types and colours keep each branch at its own position. Label each one before removal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs it one cable or several?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is one complete harness with all of its branches, supplied as a single assembly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it come with ties, clips or ESCs?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Cable ties, clips, mounting hardware, the ESCs and the motors are not included.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe braiding is worn but the wire looks fine. Do I need a new harness?\u003c\/strong\u003e Worn braiding is the early warning. If the conductor inside is intact and the fault is absent, fix the edge or clip that wore it. If the wire is damaged or a fault appears when the run is flexed, replace the harness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI part number?\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed. Photograph your old harness laid out flat and send it to us.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow long is it?\u003c\/strong\u003e Length and ratings are not published for this part. We match it against the harness you removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan I fit it myself?\u003c\/strong\u003e Most technicians can. Remove the battery, photograph and label every branch, route the new harness exactly as the old one, seat every connector, and confirm no warnings with the harness moved by hand before flying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it fit the T20P or T16?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is identified only for the T20. The T20P is a different aircraft.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs it new?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes. The harness is supplied brand new.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a service interval?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Replace it when a run, branch or connector is damaged. Look along the braided runs whenever the airframe is open.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Ares Acres","offers":[{"title":"DJI T20","offer_id":68079398256960,"sku":null,"price":249.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0923\/0159\/0848\/files\/Stock_4a1f86ff-f2f5-4a5c-88bb-ab3fa76d001d.png?v=1794326406"},{"product_id":"dji-agras-t20-oem-motor-housing-base","title":"DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Housing Base","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Housing Base is the black moulded motor fixing holder that sits between the end of an arm and a propulsion motor. On top it carries a round socket with a split down one side; below it spreads into a ribbed base plate with four metal-lined screw holes, a pair of side tabs and an opening through its centre. It belongs to the propulsion system as a mounting part: it locates and holds the motor at the arm end, it does not drive, cool or electrically connect the motor. It is identified for the DJI Agras T20. Operators usually find it while searching for a T20 motor mount, a T20 motor base, a T20 motor fixing holder, a T20 motor seat, or a cracked T20 motor holder after a crash. It is a different part from the T20 Motor Protective Shell, the cup that wraps around the motor base, and from the T20 10015 Propulsion Motor itself. DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFREE \u0026amp; FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres also ships agricultural drone parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e✅ DJI Agras T20 Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e🇺🇸 USA Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e👍🏻 Satisfaction Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e💵 Money Back Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e📦 Same Day Shipping \u0026amp; Tracking\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIdentified for the DJI Agras T20, motor position at the arm end\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMatched by split socket, ribbed base plate, four metal-lined screw holes and side tabs against the base you removed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine DJI OEM propulsion mounting part, brand new\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne base serves one motor position. If you want the match confirmed, photograph the base you removed from the socket side and from the base-plate side, so the split, the ribs and all four screw holes are visible, and send it to us — we will match it for you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📦 Package Includes\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 × Motor Housing Base — the one-piece black moulded motor fixing holder for one motor position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is one base for one motor.\u003c\/strong\u003e It is a single moulded holder, not a set for the whole aircraft and not a motor assembly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot included: the propulsion motor, the Motor Protective Shell, the propeller and propeller clamp, the arm tube, the ESC, the motor cable, the screws that pass through the base, and any clamp bolt or nut used to close the socket. Reuse the original fasteners only if their threads and heads are sound.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNothing is included because it appears near the base on the aircraft. If a fastener is missing from the position you are rebuilding, tell us which one and we will help you identify it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔧 Component Overview\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe motor housing base is the part that joins a propulsion motor to the end of its arm. Everything the motor does — lifting, steering, holding position in wind — passes into the airframe through this one moulding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts shape, as shown in the product images, has four working areas:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe split round socket\u003c\/strong\u003e — the tall round collar on top, with a slit down one side so it can close around the part it mounts on\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe ribbed base plate\u003c\/strong\u003e — the wide lower plate, stiffened by a grid of moulded ribs underneath\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe four metal-lined screw holes\u003c\/strong\u003e — one near each corner of the base plate, with metal sleeves set into the moulding so the screws bear on metal rather than plastic\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe side tabs and centre opening\u003c\/strong\u003e — a tab on each side with a small hole, and an opening through the middle of the plate\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThree neighbouring parts share this corner of the aircraft and are easy to confuse. The 10015 Propulsion Motor is the motor itself. The Motor Protective Shell is the black cup that wraps around the outside of the motor base. The motor housing base is the holder underneath both, the piece that actually fixes the motor in place. If your fault is a damaged cup, you need the shell; if the motor is noisy or will not spin, you need the motor; if the holder is cracked or has moved, you need this base.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOver a working season the base sees:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEvery load the motor produces, on every flight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMotor vibration passing into the arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTip-overs and arm-tip strikes that try to lever the motor off its arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePropeller strikes that twist the motor sideways\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpray residue and wash water at the arm tip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSun and heat on the trailer between flights\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBases come out for three reasons: a crack in the socket or base plate after an impact, a metal-lined screw hole torn out of the moulding, or a base that has turned or shifted on the arm so the motor no longer points where its neighbours point. The last of these is the one that is easy to miss, and it is the point this part turns on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚙️ Functional Purpose\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe motor housing base has one engineering job: to hold the motor at the arm end in the position and angle DJI designed. The flight controller assumes every motor pushes in a known direction. The base is what makes that assumption true.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt the motor position it:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLocates the motor on the end of its arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFixes the motor to that location through four screw holes lined with metal\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSets the angle at which the motor, and therefore its thrust, points\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarries motor thrust and vibration into the arm and the airframe\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eProvides the seat that the Motor Protective Shell closes around\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat it does not do:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not drive the propeller; the motor does\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt carries no wiring and has no electrical function\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not cool the motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt is not the protective cup around the motor base; that is the Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not compensate for a bent arm tube; a base clamped onto a bent arm is still pointing the wrong way\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat division is why the base matters out of proportion to its size. A base that has failed rarely lets the motor fall off. It lets the motor point the wrong way, and the aircraft has to work around that on every flight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 Diagnosis — a base that still holds the motor can still be wrong, because it has moved the angle it sets\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe natural test for a motor holder is whether it holds. Grab the motor, pull, and if nothing moves, the holder is fine. For this part that test is not enough. A cracked socket or a base that has turned on its arm can still grip the motor firmly and still be the fault, because what it has lost is not its grip but its angle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA multirotor steers by making some motors push harder than others. When one motor's thrust is tilted away from where its neighbours point, part of that thrust is spent pushing sideways or twisting the aircraft, and the flight controller has to correct for it continuously. The aircraft may still fly. It is working against itself to do it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSymptoms that can come from a tilted or shifted motor:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA slow yaw drift or a heading the aircraft has to keep correcting in calm air\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOne motor running noticeably warmer than the others after a flight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe aircraft holding a slight lean in hover\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA vibration that appeared after a crash and did not go away with a new propeller\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShorter flights than the same load used to give\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEach of those has other causes too — a motor, a propeller, an ESC, a calibration. That is why the base is checked by eye and by hand, not by symptom alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow to check the base:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSight the motors\u003c\/strong\u003e — with the propellers off, stand back and compare the angle of every motor shaft; one that leans differently from its pair has moved\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLook at the socket\u003c\/strong\u003e — check the split collar for cracks running away from the slit and for stress whitening around it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLook at the base plate\u003c\/strong\u003e — check the ribs and the plate for cracks, especially around the four screw holes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCheck the metal-lined holes\u003c\/strong\u003e — a sleeve that has pulled, spun or lifted in the moulding means the screw is no longer clamping the motor properly\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCheck for rotation\u003c\/strong\u003e — mark the base and the arm with a pencil line; if the line has opened up after a flight, the base is turning\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCheck the arm\u003c\/strong\u003e — a bent arm tube tilts the motor whatever the base does; rule it out before blaming the base\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMake these checks first, while the propellers are off and that information is still cheap. If the base is cracked, a sleeve has moved, or the motor leans and the arm is straight, the base is the part. If the base is whole and square and the motor still leans, look at the arm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo not judge the base by grip alone.\u003c\/strong\u003e A base can hold the motor tightly and still be holding it at the wrong angle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReplace the motor housing base when inspection confirms one of these:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA crack in the split socket, particularly one running from the slit\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA crack in the base plate or its ribs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA metal-lined screw hole pulled, spun or lifted in the moulding\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA side tab broken off\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA motor that leans relative to its pair while the arm tube is straight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA base that has turned on its arm and will not stay put when correctly tightened\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStress whitening in the moulding after a crash or a propeller strike\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePrevious repairs with adhesive, tape or cable ties\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInspect these first, because they produce similar symptoms:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe propulsion motor — bearings, shaft and fasteners\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe propeller on that position — chips, cracks and balance\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe arm tube — bends and cracks near the motor position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe ESC and motor cable for that position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe Motor Protective Shell — a cracked shell often marks where the strike landed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is no published service interval for the motor housing base. It is replaced when it is cracked, has lost a screw hole, or no longer holds the motor at its angle, not on a schedule.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📐 Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProduct name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Housing Base\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary aircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion — motor mounting\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent type:\u003c\/strong\u003e One-piece moulded motor fixing holder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1 base (one motor position)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Split round socket on top; ribbed base plate with four metal-lined screw holes, two side tabs and a centre opening\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColour:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScrew holes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Four, metal-lined, as shown in the product images\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDimensions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWeight:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical:\u003c\/strong\u003e None — mounting part with no wiring\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConnector:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMounting position:\u003c\/strong\u003e At the end of an arm, between the arm and the propulsion motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstallation method:\u003c\/strong\u003e Socket closed around its mounting point; motor fixed through the four screw holes; fasteners are not supplied\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHardware included:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None — the part is correct or it is not, with no adjustment or app setting that compensates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClassification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion mounting part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🛠️ Installation \u0026amp; Maintenance\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBefore installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePower the aircraft down and remove the battery\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemove the propeller from that motor position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRinse and dry the arm tip so you are not working in chemical residue\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMark the old base and the arm with a pencil line so you can see its original rotation\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePhotograph the motor position from the side and from above, including how the motor cable runs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLay the new base beside the old one and compare the socket, the ribs, the four screw holes and the side tabs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDuring installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemove the Motor Protective Shell from that position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRelease the motor from the base and support it so its cable is not stretched\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRelease the old base and slide it off without levering against the arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInspect the arm tube where the base sat for cracks, crushing or a bend\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFit the new base in the same rotation as your pencil mark and photograph\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eClose the socket and fix the motor through the four metal-lined holes; DJI does not publish a torque figure for these fasteners, so tighten evenly in a cross pattern without crushing the moulding\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRefit the Motor Protective Shell and confirm the motor cable is not trapped\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAfter installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSight along the motors with the propellers off and confirm the new position matches its pair\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTurn the motor by hand and confirm nothing rubs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRefit the propeller in its correct orientation for that position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRun a short hover and watch for yaw drift or a lean\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAfter the first full flight, check the pencil line and the fasteners again\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRecord the replacement in the maintenance log\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaintenance between jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e Rinse the arm tips after spraying. During the pre-flight walk-around, glance along the motors; a motor that has started to lean is easiest to see beside its neighbours. After any propeller strike or tip-over, check the base at that position before the next flight, even if the shell looks undamaged.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🚜 Necessary For\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis base is for operators and technicians rebuilding a T20 motor position:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T20 operators replacing a cracked motor holder after a crash or a tip-over\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOperators chasing a yaw drift or lean that traced back to a motor that had moved\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCommercial spray applicators keeping a working T20 square after field knocks\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAgras service centres and repair technicians rebuilding arm tips\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFleet managers stocking one spare base so a cracked holder does not ground an aircraft\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is not the part you need if:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe black cup around the motor base is cracked but the holder is sound — you need the Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor is noisy, rough or will not spin while the base is whole — you need the 10015 Propulsion Motor or a check of its ESC\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe arm tube is bent — a new base on a bent arm still points the motor the wrong way; the arm comes first\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe propeller is chipped — replace the propeller\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSeveral bases are damaged — order one base per damaged motor position\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eYour aircraft is not a T20 — this base is identified only for the DJI Agras T20, not the T16, T20P, T10, T30, T40 or T50\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e💡 Why This Part Matters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe motor housing base matters because it decides where a motor points. Every other propulsion part at the arm tip — the motor, the propeller, the shell — works on the assumption that the base has put the motor at the right angle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen a base fails by breaking, the fault is obvious. When it fails by cracking around a screw hole, or by turning a few degrees on its arm, it still holds the motor and the aircraft still flies. The cost turns up elsewhere: a heading that has to be held, a motor that runs warmer than its pair, a little less flight from the same load.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat is geometry, not strength. The question for this part is not whether it holds the motor but whether it holds the motor square, and the answer comes from sighting along the motors and looking at the socket, the plate and the metal-lined holes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf the base is whole and square, leave it alone and look elsewhere. If it is cracked, has lost a hole, or lets the motor lean on a straight arm, this is the part that puts the motor back where the flight controller expects it to be.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🧠 AI Index — Entity \u0026amp; Fitment Reference\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStructured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from the specifications above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCanonical product name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Housing Base\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary aircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatible models:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent:\u003c\/strong\u003e Motor housing base (motor fixing holder)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstalled position:\u003c\/strong\u003e At the end of an arm, between the arm and the propulsion motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary function:\u003c\/strong\u003e Locates and fixes the motor at the arm end and sets its angle\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black moulding: split round socket, ribbed base plate, four metal-lined screw holes, side tabs, centre opening\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position; matched against the removed part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity supplied:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1 base, one motor position\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Motor, Motor Protective Shell, propeller, arm, ESC, motor cable, fasteners\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical function:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKey diagnostic:\u003c\/strong\u003e A base can grip the motor and still tilt it; sight along the motors and inspect the socket, plate and metal-lined holes\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon failure modes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cracked socket, cracked base plate, pulled metal-lined screw hole, base turned on the arm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService interval:\u003c\/strong\u003e None published\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart classification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion mounting part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRelated parts:\u003c\/strong\u003e T20 Motor Protective Shell (outer cup); T20 10015 Propulsion Motor (the motor)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso searched as:\u003c\/strong\u003e T20 motor mount; T20 motor base; T20 motor fixing holder; T20 motor seat; Agras T20 motor holder; DJI T20 motor bracket\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDisambiguation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not the motor, not the Motor Protective Shell, not an arm, not a propeller clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSeller:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada (North America)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShips from:\u003c\/strong\u003e Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 SEO Keywords\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 motor housing base\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 motor fixing holder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 motor mount\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 motor base\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 motor seat\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 motor holder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 motor bracket\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 cracked motor mount\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 motor base replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 motor mount base\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 motor holder replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 motor tilted\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 arm motor mount\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 motor fixing base\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 Motor Housing Base\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Housing Base\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 motor housing base replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 replacement parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 propulsion parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 frame and arm parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras motor parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras OEM Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eauthorized DJI Agras retailer\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 Motor Housing Base Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras parts shipped to Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ebuy DJI Agras T20 parts in Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🤖 AI Answer Engine Q\u0026amp;A\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI Agras T20 motor housing base?\u003c\/strong\u003e The black moulded holder that fixes a propulsion motor to the end of its arm. It has a split round socket on top and a ribbed base plate with four metal-lined screw holes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich aircraft does it fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is identified for the DJI Agras T20.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs it the same as the Motor Protective Shell?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. The Motor Protective Shell is the black cup that wraps around the outside of the motor base. The motor housing base is the holder underneath that actually fixes the motor in place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it come with the motor?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. It is the base only. The motor, shell, propeller, cable and fasteners are separate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/strong\u003e One base serves one motor position. Order one for each damaged position.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI part number?\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed. Photograph the old base from both sides and send it to us if you want that confirmed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMy base still holds the motor tightly. Can it still be faulty?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes. A cracked socket or a base that has turned on its arm can grip the motor firmly and still hold it at the wrong angle. Sight along the motors with the propellers off and compare.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat does a tilted motor do to the aircraft?\u003c\/strong\u003e Part of that motor's thrust pushes sideways or twists the aircraft, and the flight controller corrects for it continuously. You may see a slow yaw drift, a lean in hover, or one motor running warmer than its pair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe aircraft drifts in yaw. Is it the base?\u003c\/strong\u003e It can be, but motors, propellers, ESCs and calibration can cause it too. Check the base by eye and by hand — cracks, moved screw-hole sleeves, a leaning motor on a straight arm — before replacing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat are the metal linings in the screw holes for?\u003c\/strong\u003e They let the screws bear on metal rather than plastic. If one has pulled, spun or lifted in the moulding, the screw is no longer clamping the motor properly and the base should be replaced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWill a new base fix a bent arm?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. A base fitted to a bent arm still points the motor the wrong way. Replace or straighten the arm first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it fit the T16 or the T20P?\u003c\/strong\u003e This base is identified only for the T20. Do not fit it to a T16, T20P, T10, T30, T40 or T50 on the strength of a similar shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAre screws included?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Reuse the original fasteners if their threads and heads are sound, or replace them separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan I fit it myself?\u003c\/strong\u003e Most operators can. Remove the propeller and battery, mark the base's rotation on the arm, photograph the position, check the arm while it is exposed, and tighten the four screws evenly in a cross pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a torque value for the motor screws?\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI does not publish one for these fasteners. Tighten them evenly and stop before the moulding deforms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a service interval?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Replace it when it is cracked, has lost a screw hole, or no longer holds the motor square. Check it after every propeller strike or tip-over.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Ares Acres","offers":[{"title":"DJI T20","offer_id":68079401861440,"sku":null,"price":149.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0923\/0159\/0848\/files\/dji-agras-t20-oem-motor-housing-base-1.png?v=1794325563"},{"product_id":"dji-agras-t20-oem-propeller-paddle-clamp-2-pcs","title":"DJI Agras T20 OEM Propeller Paddle Clamp (2 Pcs)","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe DJI Agras T20 OEM Propeller Paddle Clamp (2 Pcs) is a pack of two black moulded propeller clamps from the propulsion system of the DJI Agras T20. Each clamp is a long, flat bar with a rounded boss at each end and a screw hole through each boss. The product images show one clamp from its smooth face, where the screw holes are countersunk, and the other from its recessed face, where a round opening sits at the middle of the bar between two lengthwise slots. As its name says, it is the clamp that holds the propeller paddles — the blades — at the rotor; it is not a blade, not a pivot bolt and not the motor. It is identified for the DJI Agras T20. Operators usually reach it while searching for a T20 propeller clamp, a T20 paddle clamp, a T20 propeller clip, a cracked T20 blade holder, or the reason a T20 blade still rocks at its root after the pivot screw has been tightened. DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFREE \u0026amp; FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAres Acres also ships agricultural drone parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e✅ DJI Agras T20 Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e🇺🇸 USA Compatibility Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e👍🏻 Satisfaction Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e💵 Money Back Guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e📦 Same Day Shipping \u0026amp; Tracking\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIdentified for the DJI Agras T20, propeller clamp position on the rotor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMatched by bar length, end-boss shape, screw-hole layout and face detail against the clamp you removed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine DJI OEM propulsion component, brand new, supplied as two clamps\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe variant is a pack of two clamps. If you want the match confirmed, photograph the clamp you removed from both faces — the smooth face and the recessed face — next to a ruler, and send it to us. We will match it for you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📦 Package Includes\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e2 × Propeller Paddle Clamp — black moulded bars, each with a rounded boss and a screw hole at each end\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is two clamps, not a propeller.\u003c\/strong\u003e The pack holds the clamps only; no blades are included.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot included: propeller blades, pivot screws or bolts, nuts, washers and spacers, the motor, the motor protective shell, and any arm or cover parts. Reuse the original pivot hardware only if the threads, the shank and the washers are sound and undamaged.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNothing is included because it appears near the clamp on the aircraft. If a screw or washer went missing with the damaged clamp, tell us which one and we will help you identify it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔧 Component Overview\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe propeller paddle clamp sits at the top of the propulsion stack, where the blades meet the motor. It is the part that the blade roots are held in, and every load a blade carries — lift, drag, vibration and the jolt of a strike — passes through the clamp on its way to the motor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts shape, as shown in the product images, has three working areas:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe bar\u003c\/strong\u003e — a long, flat black moulding that spans between the two ends\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe end bosses\u003c\/strong\u003e — a rounded, thickened boss at each end of the bar, each with a screw hole through it; on the smooth face the holes are countersunk so the screw heads sit down into the clamp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe recessed face\u003c\/strong\u003e — on the opposite face, a round opening at the middle of the bar between two lengthwise slots, with the bar ribbed around them\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe bosses are the business end. A blade root pivots on its screw through a boss, and the boss is what keeps that pivot square. The bar between them is what keeps the two ends at their correct distance and in line with each other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOver a working season a propeller clamp sees:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConstant vibration from the rotor every minute the aircraft flies\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe full centrifugal pull of the blades at every spin-up\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBlades being folded and unfolded at every transport and set-up\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePivot screws being loosened and re-tightened every time a blade is changed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpray mix, dust and rinse water around the rotor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eShock loads from blade strikes on crop, wires, branches or the ground\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSun and heat on the trailer between jobs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eClamps are replaced for three reasons: a boss cracks or a screw hole wears oval so a blade root is no longer held square, the bar cracks or bends after a strike, or the clamp is damaged by a screw that has been cross-threaded or over-tightened. The first of those is the one that hides, and it is the point this part turns on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚙️ Functional Purpose\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe propeller paddle clamp's engineering role is location. It holds each blade root at a fixed point and lets the blade pivot about that point, so the blade can fold for transport and swing out true when the rotor spins up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt the rotor it:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHolds the blade roots at their pivot points\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eKeeps each pivot square, so the blade turns in its plane and does not tilt\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eKeeps the two ends at their correct distance and in line\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarries the blade loads into the motor below\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLets a blade be removed and refitted with its pivot screw\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat it does not do:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not make lift; the blades do that\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not set the rotor speed; the motor and ESC do that\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not decide rotation; blades are handed CW or CCW, and the clamp holds whichever blade belongs at that rotor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIt does not tighten itself; the pivot screw and its washers do the clamping\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBecause the blade root pivots in the clamp, the clamp sets how steadily the blade runs. A sound boss holds the pivot square and the blade tracks true. A boss whose hole has worn oval lets the pivot move a little in every revolution, and that movement shows up as vibration that looks for all the world like a bad blade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat is the honest case for this part. A cracked or worn clamp lets a sound blade misbehave. A damaged blade in a sound clamp is a blade problem, and new clamps will not change it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 Diagnosis — a blade that rocks at its root is a clamp question first — new blades in a worn clamp rock the same way\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen a T20 rotor starts to vibrate, the blades get the blame, because they are the part that strikes things and the part that shows damage. Often that is right. But when a blade can be rocked at its root with the pivot screw tight, the fault is usually not in the blade at all. It is in the hole the blade pivots in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo the diagnosis turns on one question: does the movement come from the blade, or from where the blade is held?\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSigns the clamp is the problem:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA blade root rocks or tilts in its pivot with the screw correctly tight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA screw hole in an end boss that has worn oval or has a crack running out from it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA crack across the bar or around a boss\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA bar that does not lie flat when placed on a flat surface\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe pivot screw keeps working loose at the same end even after re-tightening\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eVibration that returns at the same rotor after new blades have been fitted\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSigns the clamp is not the problem:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA chipped, split or cracked blade\u003c\/strong\u003e — replace the blades; that is the 3390 Propeller Pair\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA blade that is tight at the root but tracks out of line\u003c\/strong\u003e — a bent blade, not a clamp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVibration that moves with the blades when they are swapped to another rotor\u003c\/strong\u003e — the blades are the cause\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRoughness or grinding when the rotor is turned by hand with the blades off\u003c\/strong\u003e — a motor bearing, not the clamp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA cracked cover around the motor\u003c\/strong\u003e — that is the Motor Protective Shell; check the motor too\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA quick test:\u003c\/strong\u003e with the aircraft powered down and the battery out, take hold of each blade near its root and try to rock it up and down and side to side. A blade should swing freely about its pivot and not rock across it. If it rocks with the screw tight, take the screw out and look at the hole in the boss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMake that test first, while that information is still cheap. It takes a minute per rotor, and it decides whether the fix is new blades, new clamps, or both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSwap test:\u003c\/strong\u003e move the suspect blades to a healthy rotor. If the vibration follows the blades, they are the cause. If it stays with the rotor, look at the clamp, the pivot screws and then the motor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe trap on this part is simple. Fitting new blades into a clamp with an oval screw hole gives a new blade the old blade's symptom, and the next conclusion is that the new blades are faulty too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReplace the propeller paddle clamp when inspection confirms one of these:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA screw hole worn oval, so the pivot screw moves in it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA crack in an end boss, often starting at the screw hole\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA crack across the bar or at the root of a boss\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA bar that is bent or twisted and no longer lies flat\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCountersinks that are crushed or split by over-tightened screws\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDamage from a cross-threaded screw\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eA blade that rocks across its pivot with the screw correctly tight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAny clamp that took the strike that broke a blade, until it has been checked\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInspect these first, because they cause faults that are blamed on the clamp:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe blades — chips, splits, cracks and bends\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe pivot screws and washers — stretched, bent or missing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor — rough bearings, a bent shaft or a damaged bell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor protective shell and the arm fold joint\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is no published service interval for the propeller clamp. It is replaced when it is cracked, bent or worn so it no longer holds a blade root square, not on a schedule.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e📐 Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProduct name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM Propeller Paddle Clamp (2 Pcs)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion — rotor, blade retention\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent type:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moulded propeller paddle clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2 clamps per pack\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Long flat bar with a rounded boss and screw hole at each end; one face smooth with countersunk holes, the other recessed with a central round opening between two slots\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColour:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDimensions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWeight:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConnector:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMounting position:\u003c\/strong\u003e At the top of the rotor, holding the blade roots above the motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstallation method:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fitted at the rotor with the blade pivot screws; no published tightening value\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHardware included:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRotation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not published for this part; matched against the clamp you removed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None — the part is correct or it is not, with no adjustment or app setting that compensates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClassification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🛠️ Installation \u0026amp; Maintenance\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBefore installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePower the aircraft down and remove the battery\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePhotograph the rotor from above and from the side before taking anything apart, so the order of clamp, blades, washers and screws is on record\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNote which face of the clamp faces up and which blade sits at which end\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWork over a tray so screws and washers cannot drop into grass or gravel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompare the new clamps with the one you are replacing: bar length, end bosses, screw holes and both faces\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDuring installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemove the blade pivot screws and lift the blades away, keeping each blade with its own screw and washers\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemove the damaged clamp without levering against the motor or its cover\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eClean the seat it sat on and check the motor top for damage or residue\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFit the new clamp the same way up as the old one, as shown in your photograph\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRefit each blade at its own end with its screw and washers; do not mix CW and CCW blades between rotors\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTighten the pivot screws evenly and firmly; do not crush the countersinks\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAfter installation\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCheck that each blade swings freely about its pivot and does not rock across it\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUnfold the blades and check that both tips sit level with each other\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpin the rotor by hand and listen for rubbing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHover at low height and compare the sound and feel with the other rotors\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRe-check the pivot screws after the first working day\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaintenance between jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e At the pre-flight walk-around, rock each blade at its root; it takes seconds and finds a worn clamp long before it shows as vibration. After any blade strike, inspect the clamp at that rotor as well as the blade. Keep the spare clamp from the pack in the field kit with a set of pivot screws and washers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🚜 Necessary For\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese clamps are for operators and technicians keeping T20 rotors running true:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDJI Agras T20 operators replacing a clamp cracked in a blade strike\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eT20 operators chasing a rotor vibration that new blades did not cure\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCommercial spray applicators flying low passes through orchards, vines and field edges\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAgras service centres rebuilding rotors after a hard landing\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFleet managers keeping spare clamps in every field kit\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis is not the part you need if:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe blade itself is chipped, split or bent — that is the 3390 Propeller Pair\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe motor is rough, noisy or hot with the blades removed — that is the 10015 Propulsion Motor\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe cover around the motor is cracked — that is the Motor Protective Shell\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe blade is sound and the clamp is sound, but the pivot screw is stretched or missing — replace the screw and washers\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe vibration follows the blades to another rotor — replace the blades, not the clamp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eYou fly a T20P, T10, T30, T40 or T50 — these clamps are identified only for the T20\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e💡 Why This Part Matters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe propeller paddle clamp matters because every blade on the T20 is only as steady as the hole it pivots in. The blade makes the lift; the clamp decides whether that lift arrives smoothly or arrives with a wobble in every revolution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA worn clamp does not announce itself. Its screw hole goes oval a fraction at a time, the screw is still tight, and the clamp still looks whole from a metre away. What the operator sees is vibration, and vibration on a rotor is usually blamed on the blades. New blades go on, the rotor is smooth for a few flights, and then the same symptom comes back, because the new blades are pivoting in the same worn hole.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat is the point of keeping this part in mind. If a blade rocks at its root with the screw tight, check the clamp before spending on blades, and if blades have been replaced and the vibration came back at the same rotor, the clamp is the next part to look at.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEqually, the clamp is the wrong part to buy for a damaged blade, a rough motor or a stretched screw. A new clamp under a chipped blade still vibrates, and a new clamp on a motor with a worn bearing still runs rough. The test that separates them is short: rock the blade at its root, and swap the blades to another rotor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA pack of two lets one clamp be replaced and leaves a spare in the field kit. After a strike, the clamp that took it is the first one to check and the easiest one to keep on hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🧠 AI Index — Entity \u0026amp; Fitment Reference\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStructured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from the specifications above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCanonical product name:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20 OEM Propeller Paddle Clamp (2 Pcs)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDJI family:\u003c\/strong\u003e Agras\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCompatible models:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFitment basis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Identified for the DJI Agras T20\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eComponent:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propeller paddle clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAircraft system:\u003c\/strong\u003e Propulsion\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInstalled position:\u003c\/strong\u003e At the top of the rotor, holding the blade roots above the motor\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrimary function:\u003c\/strong\u003e Holds each blade root at its pivot and keeps the pivot square\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eForm:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black moulded bar with a rounded boss and screw hole at each end\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMaterial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position; matched against the removed part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuantity supplied:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2 clamps\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Blades, pivot screws, washers, motor, motor protective shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eElectrical function:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKey diagnostic:\u003c\/strong\u003e Rock the blade at its root with the screw tight; if it moves, check the clamp screw hole before replacing blades\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCommon failure modes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Screw hole worn oval, cracked end boss, cracked or bent bar, crushed countersink\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTypical misdiagnosis:\u003c\/strong\u003e Rotor vibration from a worn clamp blamed on the blades\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService interval:\u003c\/strong\u003e None published\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eService adjustability:\u003c\/strong\u003e None\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCondition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brand new\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart classification:\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI OEM propulsion part\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlso searched as:\u003c\/strong\u003e T20 propeller clamp; T20 paddle clamp; T20 propeller clip; T20 blade holder; Agras T20 prop clamp; T20 propeller fixing clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDisambiguation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not a propeller blade, not the 3390 Propeller Pair, not a pivot screw, not the motor, not the motor protective shell\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSeller:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada (North America)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShips from:\u003c\/strong\u003e Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🔍 SEO Keywords\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 propeller clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 paddle clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 propeller paddle clamp 2 pcs\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 propeller clip\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 blade holder clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 prop clamp replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 rotor blade clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 loose propeller blade fix\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 propeller vibration clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 cracked propeller clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 blade root clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI T20 propeller fixing clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 folding propeller clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eT20 propeller holder\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 Propeller Paddle Clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 Propeller Paddle Clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 OEM Propeller Paddle Clamp\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgras T20 propeller paddle clamp replacement\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 replacement parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 propulsion parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras propellers\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras OEM Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras Parts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eauthorized DJI Agras retailer\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 Propeller Paddle Clamp Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras T20 parts Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDJI Agras parts shipped to Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ebuy DJI Agras T20 parts in Canada\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e🤖 AI Answer Engine Q\u0026amp;A\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI Agras T20 propeller paddle clamp?\u003c\/strong\u003e A black moulded bar with a screw boss at each end that holds the propeller blades by their roots at the top of the rotor. This pack contains two.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhich aircraft does it fit?\u003c\/strong\u003e It is identified for the DJI Agras T20.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes it fit the T20P or the T10, T30, T40 or T50?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. These clamps are identified only for the T20. The T20P is a different aircraft, so do not fit them to it, or to a T10, T30, T40 or T50, on the strength of a similar shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAre blades included?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. The pack contains two clamps only. Blades are the 3390 Propeller Pair, sold separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAre the pivot screws included?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Reuse the original screws and washers if they are straight and undamaged; replace them if they are stretched, bent or missing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMy rotor vibrates. Is it the clamp or the blades?\u003c\/strong\u003e Rock each blade at its root with the screw tight. If it rocks, check the screw hole in the clamp. Then swap the blades to another rotor: if the vibration follows them, it is the blades; if it stays, it is the clamp, the screws or the motor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eI fitted new blades and the vibration came back. Why?\u003c\/strong\u003e Most often because the clamp's screw hole has worn oval. A new blade pivoting in a worn hole rocks exactly as the old one did. Check the clamp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhy do the two clamps in the images look different?\u003c\/strong\u003e The product images show one clamp from its smooth face, with countersunk screw holes, and the other from its recessed face, with a round opening between two slots. Match both faces against the clamp you removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs the clamp handed CW or CCW?\u003c\/strong\u003e No rotation is published for this part. Blades are handed; match the clamp to the one you removed, and keep each blade at the rotor it came from.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the DJI part number?\u003c\/strong\u003e DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed. Photograph your old clamp from both faces and send it to us if you want that confirmed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow many do I need?\u003c\/strong\u003e One for each clamp that is cracked, bent or worn. The pack of two replaces one and leaves a spare for the field kit; photograph the rotor if you are not sure how many it carries and we will confirm it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan I fly with a cracked clamp?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. The clamp carries the blade loads into the motor. A crack at a boss can let a blade root move or let go. Replace it first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCan I fit it myself?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes. Photograph the rotor first, remove the blades with their own screws and washers, fit the new clamp the same way up, refit each blade at its own end and tighten the pivot screws evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow tight should the pivot screws be?\u003c\/strong\u003e No tightening value is published for this part. Tighten evenly and firmly so the blade swings freely about its pivot without rocking, and do not crush the countersinks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo I need a new clamp after every blade strike?\u003c\/strong\u003e Not every time, but check it every time. Look for cracks at the bosses, an oval screw hole and a bar that no longer lies flat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs there a service interval?\u003c\/strong\u003e No. Replace a clamp when it is cracked, bent or worn so it no longer holds a blade square. Rock each blade at its root on the pre-flight walk-around.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Ares Acres","offers":[{"title":"DJI T20","offer_id":68079550628160,"sku":null,"price":169.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0923\/0159\/0848\/files\/dji-agras-t20-oem-propeller-paddle-clamp-2-pcs-1.png?v=1794326822"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0923\/0159\/0848\/collections\/dji-agras-t20-oem-10015-propulsion-motor-1_4dd86930-48ce-446d-8052-495931b800b6.jpg?v=1794520951","url":"https:\/\/aresacres.com\/collections\/dji-agras-t20-propulsion-parts.oembed","provider":"Ares Acres","version":"1.0","type":"link"}