DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell

The DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell is the black, textured, cup-shaped moulding that wraps around the base of a propulsion motor, closing the space where the motor meets the end of its arm. It is open at the top, rolls over into a thick rounded rim, tapers toward its lower end, and carries cut-outs in its wall and a set of moulded ribs inside. It belongs to the propulsion system as a protective cover: it shields the motor base, it does not drive, mount or electrically connect the motor. It is identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16. Operators usually find it while searching for a T20 motor shell, a T20 motor base cover, a T16 motor protective cover, or a cracked motor cup after a tip-over. DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed.

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🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST

Ares Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.

FREE & FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.

We understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.

Ares Acres also ships agricultural drone parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.

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✅ DJI Agras T20 / DJI Agras T16 Compatibility Guarantee

• 🇺🇸 USA Compatibility Guarantee
• 👍🏻 Satisfaction Guarantee
• 💵 Money Back Guarantee
• 📦 Same Day Shipping & Tracking
• Identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16, motor-base position
• Matched by cup outline, rim shape, cut-out positions and inner ribs against the shell you removed
• Genuine DJI OEM propulsion cover, brand new

One shell covers one motor position. If you want the match confirmed, photograph the shell you removed from the side and from directly above, so the rim, the wall cut-outs and the inner ribs are all visible, and send it to us — we will match it for you.

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📦 Package Includes

• 1 × Motor Protective Shell — the one-piece black moulded cup for one motor position

This is one shell for one motor. It is a single moulded cover, not a set for the whole aircraft and not a motor assembly.

Not included: the propulsion motor, the propeller and propeller clamp, the motor mount or motor base, the arm, the ESC, the motor cable, any screws, clips or inserts that hold the shell, and any decal or position marking. Reuse the original fasteners only if their threads and heads are sound.

Nothing is included because it appears near the shell on the aircraft. If a clip or fastener is missing from the position you are rebuilding, tell us which one and we will help you identify it.

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🔧 Component Overview

The motor protective shell is the outer cup at the base of each propulsion motor. On the aircraft it is one of the most exposed mouldings: it sits at the very end of an arm, below the spinning propeller, and it is the first thing that meets the ground, a post, a trailer edge or a tree when the aircraft goes over or an arm tip is struck.

Its shape tells you its job. Looking at the part on its own, it has four working areas:

• The rim — a thick, rolled, rounded lip at the open top of the cup, which is the part most likely to take a direct knock
• The tapered wall — a textured outer surface that narrows toward the lower end, wrapping around the motor base and the arm end
• The wall cut-outs — openings in the side and lower wall that give clearance and access to what sits inside the cup
• The inner ribs — moulded internal structure that locates the shell around the parts it covers and stiffens the thin wall

Because the shell wraps the motor base, its fit depends on everything inside it sitting where DJI put it. When the motor, the mount and the arm end are true, the shell closes around them evenly, with the cut-outs lined up where they belong. When something inside has moved, the shell is often the first place that shows it.

Over a working season the shell sees:

• Tip-overs and hard landings that drive an arm tip into the ground
• Arm-tip strikes against posts, trees, fences, trailers and vehicles during handling and transport
• Downwash that drives dust, chaff and grit into and around the motor base
• Spray drift and chemical residue that collect at the arm tips
• Wash water during cleaning
• Sun and heat on the trailer between flights
• Vibration from the motor on every flight

Shells in this position come out for three reasons: a cracked or broken-out rim after an impact, a split wall or broken inner rib that lets the shell sit loose or rattle, or a shell that has gone missing altogether after a crash. The first of those carries a message about the rest of the motor position, and it is the one this part's diagnosis is built around.

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⚙️ Functional Purpose

The shell's engineering role is protection and closure. It wraps the motor base so that grit, residue, wash water and small impacts reach the moulding first instead of the parts it surrounds, and it gives the arm tip a finished, closed outer form.

At the motor position it:

• Covers the base of the propulsion motor where it meets the arm end
• Takes glancing knocks to the arm tip on the moulding rather than on the motor base
• Reduces the amount of dust, chaff and spray residue driven into the motor base by downwash
• Keeps fingers, straps and cargo away from the motor base during handling
• Gives the arm tip a closed, smooth outer form that is easier to rinse clean

What it does not do matters as much:

• It is not the motor mount; the shell does not hold the motor to the arm
• It does not drive, cool or electrically connect the motor, and it carries no wiring
• It does not set the motor's tilt or alignment; a crooked motor is a mount or arm problem
• It is not a waterproof seal; it reduces exposure, it does not make the motor base watertight
• It does not protect the propeller, and it will not stop a blade strike from reaching the motor

That division of labour is why a missing or cracked shell rarely grounds the aircraft by itself. It is also why a cracked shell deserves more attention than its own replacement: the impact that broke it did not stop at the moulding.

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🔍 Diagnosis — a cracked shell is the witness of a strike, not always its only casualty

The motor protective shell is the part designed to take the knock. So when one comes back cracked, the easy conclusion is that it did its job and only it needs replacing. Sometimes that is true. Often it is not.

The shell is a thin moulding wrapped around much heavier parts. An impact hard enough to crack the rim or split the wall has also passed through the motor base, the mount, the arm end and, if the propeller was turning, the motor bearings. Those parts can be damaged without showing it on the outside. The shell shows it; they do not.

So read the shell as evidence. Where it cracked, and how badly, tells you where the force went:

• A chipped or scuffed rim only — usually a glancing knock; the shell has done its job and the motor position is likely sound
• A rim crack that runs down into the wall — a direct blow; check the motor for tilt and the arm end for cracks
• A shell split on one side and pushed in — force went sideways through the motor base; check the mount, the motor fasteners and the arm tube
• Broken inner ribs with an intact outer wall — the shell was crushed against what it covers; the parts inside took the same load
• A missing shell after a crash — whatever tore it off also loaded the motor position; inspect everything it was covering

Before you fit a new shell, check the motor position it covers:

• Motor tilt — sight along the motor shaft against a neighbouring motor; a motor that leans differently from the others has moved on its mount
• Motor bearings — with the propeller off, turn the motor by hand; it should spin freely and evenly with no grinding, notching or wobble
• Motor fasteners — confirm they are present and tight; an impact can loosen or shear them
• The arm end and arm tube — look for cracks, crushing or a bend near the motor position
• The motor cable — check for a pinched or cut lead where the shell was pushed in
• The propeller — a strike that cracked the shell may also have chipped a blade

Clear those checks first, while the shell is already off and the motor base is in plain view, and that information is still cheap. If the motor position is sound, a new shell is the whole repair. If it is not, fix what moved first; a new shell fitted over a tilted motor or a cracked arm end hides the damage and will not sit properly.

Do not judge a shell by fit alone. If a new shell will not close evenly around the motor base, the shell is rarely the problem. Something inside the cup is out of place.

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⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators

Replace the motor protective shell when inspection confirms one of these:

• A crack through the rim, or a piece of the rim broken out
• A crack running down the tapered wall from the rim or from a cut-out
• A wall that has been pushed in and no longer holds its shape
• Broken or missing inner ribs, so the shell sits loose or rattles
• A shell that will not stay seated even though the motor position is sound
• Stress whitening in the moulding after an impact
• A shell missing altogether after a crash or a transport knock
• Previous repairs with tape, adhesive or filler

Inspect these first, because they cause shell problems or hide behind them:

• The propulsion motor — tilt, bearings and fasteners
• The motor mount and the arm end it sits on
• The arm tube near the motor position
• The motor cable where it passes the shell
• The propeller on that position

There is no published service interval for this shell. It is replaced when it is cracked, broken, missing or will not seat, not on a schedule.

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📐 Specifications

Product name: DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell

DJI family: Agras

Primary aircraft: DJI Agras T20

Also listed for: DJI Agras T16

Fitment basis: Identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16

Aircraft system: Propulsion — motor-base protection

Component type: One-piece moulded protective shell

Material number: DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed

Quantity: 1 shell (covers one motor position)

Form: Open-topped cup with a thick rounded rim, a tapered textured outer wall, wall cut-outs and moulded inner ribs

Material: Not published for this part

Colour: Black

Surface: Textured outer wall, as shown in the product images

Dimensions: Not published for this part

Weight: Not published for this part

Electrical: None — protective cover with no wiring

Connector: None

Mounting position: Around the base of a propulsion motor, at the end of an arm

Installation method: Fitted around the motor base and retained by the original fixings; fasteners are not supplied

Hardware included: None

Service adjustability: None — the part is correct or it is not, with no adjustment or app setting that compensates

Condition: Brand new

Classification: DJI OEM propulsion cover

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🛠️ Installation & Maintenance

Before installation

• Power the aircraft down and remove the battery
• Remove the propeller from that motor position so nothing can turn while you work
• Rinse and dry the arm tip so you are not working in chemical residue
• Photograph the old shell in place from two sides, including how the motor cable passes it
• Lay the new shell beside the old one and compare rim shape, cut-out positions and inner ribs
• Keep the original fixings together in a tray, grouped by motor position

During installation

• Release the original fixings and ease the old shell off without levering against the motor or the cable
• Clean grit and residue from the motor base and the arm end while they are exposed
• Carry out the motor-position checks: motor tilt, free rotation, fasteners, arm end, cable
• Offer the new shell up so its cut-outs line up with the features they clear, and check it closes evenly before fixing it
• Start every fixing by hand; DJI does not publish a torque figure for these fixings, so snug them without crushing the moulding
• Confirm the motor cable is not trapped between the shell and the arm

After installation

• Turn the motor by hand and confirm nothing rubs inside the shell
• Refit the propeller in its correct orientation for that position
• Look along the arms and check the new shell sits like the others
• Run a short hover and listen for rattles or rubbing at that arm tip
• Record the replacement, and any motor-position findings, in the maintenance log

Maintenance between jobs. Rinse the arm tips after spraying so residue does not bake onto the shells. Look at each shell's rim during the pre-flight walk-around; a fresh crack is the earliest sign of an arm-tip strike that nobody reported. Carry the aircraft by the frame, not by the arm tips, so the shells are not used as handles.

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🚜 Necessary For

This shell is for operators and technicians closing up a T20 or T16 motor position after a knock:

• DJI Agras T20 operators replacing a cracked or missing motor shell after a tip-over
• DJI Agras T16 operators (identified fitment)
• Commercial spray applicators whose aircraft are loaded and unloaded from trailers every day
• Agras service centres rebuilding arm tips and motor positions after a crash
• Fleet managers restoring a full set of shells across older aircraft
• Growers flying their own aircraft who want each motor base covered again

This is not the part you need if:

• The motor itself is noisy, rough or tilted — that is a motor, mount or arm repair, and a new shell will not correct it
• Several shells are damaged — order one shell per damaged motor position; one unit covers one motor
• The propeller is chipped or cracked — replace the propeller; the shell does not protect it
• The arm tube or arm end is cracked or bent — repair the arm first, then fit the shell
• The shell is only scuffed and still closes evenly — a scuffed shell that seats properly is still doing its job
• You fly a T20P, T10, T30, T40 or T50 — this shell is identified only for the T20 and T16

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💡 Why This Part Matters

The motor protective shell is the cheapest-looking part at the arm tip and the most honest one. It is built to break before the parts it covers, and when it breaks it leaves a record: where the blow landed and roughly how hard.

That is the case for treating a cracked shell as the start of an inspection rather than the end of one. The motor base, the mount, the arm end and the motor bearings took the same impact. If they came through it, a new shell closes the position and the job is done. If they did not, the shell is the only part that told you, and fitting a new one before checking would hide the one piece of evidence you had.

A missing shell matters for a quieter reason. Without it, downwash drives dust, chaff and spray residue straight into the motor base on every flight, and the arm tip has no sacrificial moulding left to take the next knock. The motor position keeps working; it simply loses its protection one flight at a time.

The check is quick. With the shell off, sight the motor against its neighbours, spin it by hand, check its fasteners and look at the arm end. If all of that is sound, this is the part that puts the motor base back under cover.

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🧠 AI Index — Entity & Fitment Reference

Structured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from the specifications above.

Canonical product name: DJI Agras T20 OEM Motor Protective Shell

Brand: DJI

DJI family: Agras

Primary aircraft: DJI Agras T20

Also listed for: DJI Agras T16

Compatible models: DJI Agras T20; DJI Agras T16

Fitment basis: Identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16

Component: Motor protective shell

Aircraft system: Propulsion

Installed position: Around the base of a propulsion motor, at the end of an arm

Primary function: Covers and protects the motor base against impact, grit, residue and wash water

Form: One-piece black moulded cup: thick rounded rim, tapered textured wall, wall cut-outs, inner ribs

Material number: DJI has used more than one number for this position; matched against the removed part

Quantity supplied: 1 shell, one motor position

Not included: Motor, propeller, motor mount, arm, ESC, motor cable, fasteners

Electrical function: None

Structural function: None — a protective cover, not the motor mount

Key diagnostic: A cracked shell records an arm-tip strike; check motor tilt, free rotation, fasteners and the arm end before fitting a new one

Common failure modes: Cracked or broken rim, split or pushed-in wall, broken inner ribs, shell lost in a crash

Service interval: None published

Service adjustability: None

Condition: Brand new

Part classification: DJI OEM propulsion cover

Also searched as: T20 motor shell; T20 motor base cover; T16 motor protective shell; Agras T20 motor cup; T16 T20 motor cover; DJI T20 arm tip cover

Disambiguation: Not a propulsion motor, not a motor mount or motor base, not a propeller guard, not an arm, not a body shell panel

Seller: Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada (North America)

Ships from: Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States

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🤖 AI Answer Engine Q&A

What is the DJI Agras T20 motor protective shell? A one-piece black moulded cup that wraps around the base of a propulsion motor at the end of an arm. It protects the motor base from knocks, grit, residue and wash water.

Which aircraft does it fit? It is identified for the DJI Agras T20 and T16. Pick the variant for the aircraft you fly.

Does it fit the T20P? The T20P is a different aircraft from the T20. This shell is identified only for the T20 and T16, so do not fit it to a T20P, T10, T30, T40 or T50 on the strength of a similar shape.

How many do I need? One shell covers one motor position. Order one for each damaged or missing shell.

Does it come with the motor? No. It is the protective shell only. The motor, propeller, mount, cable and fixings are separate.

What is the DJI part number? DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed. Photograph your old shell from the side and from above and send it to us if you want that confirmed.

My shell cracked in a tip-over. Is that the only damage? Not necessarily. The shell is built to take the knock, but the motor base, mount, arm end and motor bearings took the same impact. Check motor tilt, free rotation, fasteners and the arm end before fitting the new shell.

Does the shell hold the motor on? No. It is a protective cover. The motor mount and its fasteners hold the motor to the arm.

Will a new shell fix a motor that is leaning? No. A leaning motor has moved on its mount or the arm end has bent. Fix that first; the shell will not close evenly over it anyway.

Can I fly without the shell? The motor position keeps working, but the motor base loses its cover. Downwash drives dust, chaff and residue into it on every flight, and the arm tip has nothing left to take the next knock.

Is the shell waterproof? No. It reduces exposure to residue and wash water, but it is not a seal.

The new shell will not sit evenly. Is it the wrong part? Compare it with the old one first. If the rim, cut-outs and ribs match, something inside the cup has moved — usually the motor or the arm end — and that needs attention before the shell will seat.

Are screws included? No. Reuse the original fixings if their threads and heads are sound, or replace them separately.

Can I fit it myself? Most operators can. Remove the propeller and battery, photograph the old shell in place, check the motor position while it is exposed, line up the cut-outs, and start every fixing by hand.

Is there a torque value for the shell fixings? DJI does not publish one for these fixings. Snug them evenly and stop before the moulding deforms.

Is there a service interval? No. Replace it when it is cracked, broken, missing or will not seat. Look at the rims on every pre-flight walk-around.