DJI Agras T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Cooling Fan (YC.DZ.GR000728)

DJI Agras T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Cooling Fan (YC.DZ.GR000728) — the engine-driven fan that moves cooling air over the engine and generator head on the DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator, DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000728. D14000iE cooling fan, Zongshen generator fan, DJI Agras OEM generator cooling parts.

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Ares Acres also ships genuine DJI OEM parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras reseller serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.

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• DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000728 — verified against the DJI Agras parts documentation for this component
• Supplier-listed fitment: DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator
• Molded polymer cooling fan with curved vanes across the face, a deep peripheral blade ring, a triangular keyed center bore, and three fastener bosses, as pictured
• Brand new condition — never installed, never run

📦 Package Includes

• 1 × Cooling Fan (YC.DZ.GR000728)

🔧 Component Overview

The DJI Agras T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Cooling Fan, DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000728, is the engine-driven fan that drives cooling airflow over the engine and generator head on the DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator. As pictured it is a single molded polymer piece: curved vanes across the face, a deep blade ring around the periphery, a triangular keyed center bore that drives it positively from the shaft, and three fastener bosses. It has no motor of its own, no control, and no way to run faster when things get hot — it turns exactly as fast as the engine turns and it moves exactly as much air as its vanes are still shaped to move.

That last point is what makes a broken fan more serious than a broken fan looks. This is an air-cooled machine with no radiator, no coolant, and no reserve: airflow is the entire cooling system. On a field charging operation the D14000iE runs at sustained load for hours in the hottest, driest weeks of the year, parked on a trailer or a truck bed with dust in the air, keeping a T100, T70P, or T55 rotation supplied with packs. Everything expensive in that machine — the engine, and above all the generator head with its Rotor, YC.DZ.GR000700 — stays alive because this fan keeps moving air across it. A hundred-dollar molded part is what stands between a hard day and a heat-damaged head.

There is a bench test for a fan that looks intact but feels wrong, and it takes two minutes. Slip the fan onto a clean straight rod or a smooth shaft held level, spin it gently, and let it coast to a stop. Do that several times. A balanced fan parks in a different position each time. A fan that keeps settling with the same point at the bottom has lost mass somewhere, from a chipped vane tip, an eroded vane face, or a piece of the blade ring that is no longer there. That is the imbalance your shaft and bearings have been living with, and it will not get better.

Cracks in a molded fan hide at the roots, so look where the load is rather than where the eye goes. Wipe each vane root and the area around the keyed bore and the fastener bosses clean, put a bright light behind the part, and flex each vane gently with a thumb while watching the root. A crack shows as a fine dark line that opens slightly as the vane moves and closes again when it is released. Check the bore corners the same way. A fan with a root crack is finished even though it still moves air today, because the next stage is a vane leaving at engine speed.

When the complaint is heat rather than damage, prove where the air is actually going before condemning the fan. With the machine at charging load, look for the exhaust path the shrouding is supposed to create and feel for hot air escaping where it should not, at a gap, a missing panel, or a fastener nobody put back. Then shut down, cool off, and look inside the shroud. A mat of chaff and dust packed against the fins, a nest built in a quiet corner over the winter, or a screen blinded with dry residue will all cook a machine while a perfectly good fan turns at full speed behind them.

Take temperatures rather than opinions. An infrared thermometer costs very little and, used on the same few points on the engine and the generator end after the machine has been at steady charging load for a while, it gives you a number you can write down and compare next season. Note the ambient temperature alongside it so the figures mean something. Once you have a baseline from a machine you know is healthy, a fan or an airflow problem stops being a judgment call and becomes a comparison, which is the only way to catch a cooling problem before it does the damage it does.

⚙️ Functional Purpose

The fan is bolted to a rotating shaft and driven directly by the engine, so it produces airflow proportional to engine speed with no delay and no intervention. The curved vanes across the face draw air in and accelerate it outward; the deep blade ring at the rim gathers that air and throws it into the shrouding, which directs it across the surfaces that actually need to shed heat. The design assumes a complete fan working inside complete shrouding — the two are a system, and neither does its job without the other. Under sustained charging load, that airflow is what holds engine and generator head temperatures inside the range everything else on the machine was designed around.

What degrades is vane geometry and balance, and both matter more than the part cost suggests. A chipped or broken vane immediately reduces the volume of air moved, and it does so silently — nothing announces it, the machine simply runs hotter than it used to on the same job. It also puts the fan out of balance, and an out-of-balance part spinning at engine speed feeds vibration straight into the shaft, its bearings, and everything mounted nearby. Cracks that start at the keyed bore or a fastener boss let the fan work loose on its drive, which rounds the bore and eventually lets the fan slip or come apart entirely. Once a piece of polymer leaves the fan at speed inside a shroud, it goes looking for something else to damage. The failure sequence is short and it ends with heat damage to parts that cost many times what the fan does.

The shrouding comes off before the fan does, and how you take it apart decides how well it goes back. Lay the fasteners out in the pattern they came from, because shroud fasteners are commonly different lengths and a long one run into a short hole will crack a boss or stand proud into the fan path. Note which panel overlaps which and where every clip, grommet and edge seal sits, since the shroud only works as a complete duct. Photograph it before the first fastener moves; the difference between good airflow and mediocre airflow is often one panel that went back slightly out of position.

Slacken the fan fasteners evenly and in stages, working across the pattern rather than around it, and support the fan as the last one comes out. If the fan is tight on its keyed bore, pull it off squarely with force applied at the hub. Never lever against a vane and never pry between a vane and the shroud flange: the vanes carry no load in that direction and a molded part cracks out of sight before it breaks in the open. If it will not come, work around the hub gradually rather than increasing the force in one place.

Once the fan is off, the shaft end tells you whether the old fan was fully driven. Recover the key and look at it and at the keyway for rounding, burring, or the fine dark powder that fretting leaves behind. A worn key or a wallowed bore means the old fan was moving on its drive, and fitting a new fan onto a damaged key and keyway simply transfers the problem. Clean the mounting face down to bare metal, get every chip of old polymer and every bit of grit off it, and check the face for burrs, because anything under the hub will cock the fan and make it run out of true.

Seat the new fan fully on the keyed bore without forcing it, then bring the fasteners up evenly across the pattern in stages with a torque wrench set to the documented figure. A molded boss does not tell you when it has had enough, and an over-torqued boss will crack weeks later where nobody is looking. Turn the fan by hand through several full revolutions and check clearance to the shroud all the way around with a light behind it, not just at the point where it happens to sit. Refit the shrouding completely, then plan on re-checking fastener torque after the machine has been to full temperature and cooled again, because polymer relaxes through its first heat cycle.

⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators

• Cracked, chipped, broken, or missing vanes anywhere on the fan
• Cracking around the keyed center bore or at any of the three fastener bosses
• A new vibration, whine, or rumble from the fan end that was not there before
• Running temperatures climbing on jobs the unit used to handle comfortably
• Brittle, chalky, or heat-glazed plastic on a high-hour field unit
• Any damage found after debris has been drawn through the shroud, or after transport or teardown

Confirm before you order: this is DJI part YC.DZ.GR000728, the Cooling Fan for the DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator. If the complaint is heat rather than visible damage, check the whole airflow path before you blame the fan. A blocked intake screen, a shroud packed with chaff and field dust, a missing or misfitted shroud panel, or a machine parked hard up against a truck bed wall will all raise running temperatures with a perfectly good fan turning. Then inspect the fan itself with the engine cool and the battery disconnected: go around every vane, look specifically at the roots where cracks start, check the keyed bore and the fastener bosses, and check for any play or wallowing on the shaft. A fan with even one broken vane should be replaced rather than run, because the balance problem does damage the airflow loss does not.

Why it fails: polymer parts age in field service. Heat cycling from cold start to full operating temperature, day after day, plus UV exposure across seasons, embrittles the material until it cracks where it used to flex. Debris is the other half of it — chaff, stalk, grit, gravel, and the occasional piece of loose hardware get drawn toward a fan that is pulling air hard, and a fan turning at engine speed does not survive contact with much. Continuous vibration and the repeated torque of every start and stop work the keyed bore and the fastener bosses. Chemical overspray and washdown attack the material from outside, field dust erodes vane surfaces over time, and transport shock plus ordinary mishandling during teardown account for the rest.

Post-install checklist: inspect the new fan before it goes on — look at every vane and the blade ring for shipping damage, and check the keyed bore and fastener bosses for cracks or distortion. Clean the mounting face, confirm the shaft and key are clean and undamaged, and seat the fan fully on the keyed bore without forcing it. Tighten the fasteners evenly to the torque published in the DJI/Zongshen service documentation for this engine — a molded part will not tolerate being pulled down hard, so do not guess and do not overtighten. Turn the fan by hand and confirm it runs true with clearance to the shroud all the way around. Refit the shrouding completely, clean the intake screen while you are there, and make sure nothing was left inside. Reconnect the battery last, run the unit up to charging load, and watch temperatures and listen for vibration. Then shut down, let it cool fully, and re-inspect: recheck fastener torque, re-check the vanes and bore, and confirm nothing has moved.

A new vibration that appears at one engine speed and gets stronger as revs rise, with nothing loose in the mounts: that is a rotating imbalance rather than a rattle. A fan that has lost a vane tip or a piece of its blade ring produces exactly this, and every hour it runs it is working the shaft, the bearings, and every fastener nearby.

Running temperatures that have crept up across a season on jobs the machine used to handle without complaint, with the shroud clean and the intake screen clear: the fan is moving less air than it was. Vane surfaces erode and vane tips chip without ever breaking off cleanly, and the loss is gradual enough that nobody notices the day it starts.

A black polished arc on the inside of the shroud, or a scuffed edge on the blade ring: the fan has been contacting the shroud. Find out why before fitting a new one, because the causes are a wallowed keyed bore, a loose hub, a bent or distorted shroud panel, or shaft play, and a new fan dropped into the same situation gets destroyed the same way.

Fine dark powder or bright fretting marks around the keyed bore and the fastener bosses when the fan comes off: the fan has been working against its drive instead of turning solidly with it. Check the key and keyway before anything new goes on, because the drive is what a keyed bore depends on and once it starts moving it accelerates.

Chalky, faded, or heat-glazed plastic on a high-hour fan, with vanes that feel stiffer and less springy than they used to: UV and years of heat cycling have taken the flexibility out of the material. Embrittled polymer does not bend when it meets a stalk or a stone, it breaks, and a fan in that condition is a preventive replacement rather than a diagnosis.

A whine, a whistle, or a note from the fan end that changed at some point in the season: airflow is passing over a damaged edge or through a gap that was not there before. Chipped vane tips, a cracked blade ring, and a shroud panel sitting slightly out of position all change the sound, and the sound usually changes before the temperature does.

Debris marks inside the shroud, fresh scoring on the fins, or a piece of polymer found loose after a stalk or a stone went through: something has been in the fan. Inspect every vane and account for any missing material before the machine runs again. A fragment loose inside the shrouding is a second failure waiting for the next start.

Generator output that fades through the afternoon and recovers overnight, with fuel and compression already proved good: the machine is heat limited. Airflow is the only cooling this design has, so an aging fan and a partly blocked airflow path both show up as a generator that will hold full output early in the day and not late in it.

A fastener boss with a crack radiating from the hole, or a fastener that will not hold the torque it used to: the boss has been crushed, usually by over-tightening at a previous service. Cracks that start at a boss run toward the bore, and the fan can eventually let go of its own mounting. Replace rather than trying to run one fastener slightly looser.

Vanes that look complete but sit at visibly different angles from one another when you sight across the face: the material has taken a set from heat, or one or more vanes have been bent by contact. Vane geometry is what moves the air, and a vane that has changed angle is moving less than the one next to it while still looking present in a photograph.

📐 Specifications

Part: Cooling Fan

Material Number: YC.DZ.GR000728

Fits: DJI Agras D14000iE Multifunctional Inverter Generator (field charging station for DJI Agras T100, T70P, and T55 operations)

Component Type: Engine cooling — engine-driven cooling fan

Description: Molded polymer fan with curved vanes across the face, a deep peripheral blade ring, a triangular keyed center bore, and three fastener bosses, as pictured

Function: Drives cooling airflow over the engine and the generator head

Quantity: 1 cooling fan

Condition: Brand new

Safety: let the engine and exhaust cool fully before any work — the fan sits in the hottest airflow on the machine — and disconnect the battery before anything that can turn the engine over, because a starter that fires while your hands are at the fan gives no warning. Confirm the generator is shut down and off load before you begin. Observe the correct torque figures, fastener sequence, and timing and alignment marks on reassembly exactly as published in the DJI/Zongshen service documentation for this engine; do not work from assumed values.

Fastener torque for the fan and shroud: Not published in this listing. Take the figure from the DJI and Zongshen service documentation and use a torque wrench. A molded polymer boss gives no warning before it is crushed, and cracks from an over-torqued boss appear long after the day it happened.

Fan diameter, vane count and blade ring depth: Not published in this listing. Match DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000728 and compare the new fan against the removed one before fitting, including the direction the vanes curve, since a fan of the wrong hand moves far less air.

Key and keyway: Not included. Inspect the key, the keyway and the shaft for rounding, burring and fretting when the old fan comes off. A new fan on a worn key will wallow its bore in short order.

Balance: This fan is balanced as manufactured. Do not attempt to repair, trim or reinforce a damaged fan, and do not add anything to it. A fan turning at engine speed feeds any imbalance straight into the shaft and its bearings.

🚜 Necessary For

• Restoring full cooling airflow after vane damage from debris drawn through the shroud
• Curing new vibration traced to an out-of-balance or cracked fan
• Bringing running temperatures back down on a unit that has started heat-soaking under load
• Replacing brittle, cracked, or heat-glazed polymer on a high-hour field charging generator
• Protecting the far more expensive generator head and rotor during hot-weather charging duty

Replacing a fan with any cracked, chipped, broken or missing vane, where the imbalance is doing continuous damage to the shaft and bearings even though the machine still runs.

Restoring cooling capacity on a high-hour unit whose running temperatures have climbed across a season with a clean shroud and a clear intake screen.

Rebuilding the cooling path after debris has been through the shrouding, where vane damage, blade ring damage, or a fragment lost inside the shroud has been found.

Replacing an embrittled fan on a machine that has spent seasons in sun and heat, where the polymer has gone chalky and stiff and will shatter rather than flex on the next impact.

Fitting a new fan as a matter of course during any teardown that exposes it on a high-hour generator, since the labor is already spent and the part protects everything downstream of it.

💡 Why This Part Matters

Cooling is the quietest form of insurance on an air-cooled machine, and this fan is the whole policy. There is no coolant, no radiator, no thermostat, and no second fan — there is airflow, and airflow is what this part makes. On a field charging generator that runs at load through the hottest weeks of the season, heat is the thing that ages the head, ages the rotor, and turns a machine that used to hold full charging output all afternoon into one that fades after lunch. A broken vane does not stop the generator or throw a fault; it just quietly moves less air, every hour, until something expensive downstream pays for it. Of everything on the D14000iE, this is the cheapest part with the most leverage. Replace it at the first crack, keep the shroud clean, and let the machine run cool through the window.

Move the air. Keep it cool. Check every vane. Save the head.

When a vane is missing, find the piece before you run the machine again. Go through the shrouding, the fins, the intake screen area, and anywhere a fragment could have lodged, and account for the material that is gone. Polymer inside a shroud does not sit still: it gets picked up by the airflow, wedges somewhere it blocks air, or comes back into the new fan. While you are in there, check the fins for impact scoring and check the intake screen for the damage that let the debris in, because a screen with a hole in it will feed the next fan too.

The fan and the shrouding are one system and neither is worth much alone, so plan the job around both. Have replacement clips, grommets, edge seals and any missing fasteners on hand before you start, and be honest about a shroud panel that has been bent, cracked, or drilled at some point in its life. Air that escapes before it reaches the fins does nothing for the machine, and a shroud reassembled one panel out of position quietly costs cooling capacity that the operator later blames on the fan.

Store a spare fan the way you would store any molded polymer part that has to stay true. Keep it in its packaging, out of direct sunlight, off a hot truck deck, and away from fuel and solvent, and never stack anything on it. UV and heat are what age this material, and a spare that has spent a season in the back window of a pickup is not the part you want to fit when the working one finally breaks. Check a stored spare for cracks before fitting it just as carefully as you checked the one you took off.

Preventive replacement on this part is unusually easy to justify. It is among the least expensive components on the machine, it takes the shrouding and a handful of fasteners to change, and what it protects is the engine and the generator head. Replace it at the first crack rather than at the first broken vane, replace it whenever a teardown puts it in your hand on a high-hour unit, and keep the airflow path clean between times. Nothing else on this generator gives back so much for so little, and nothing else fails so quietly.

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🧠 AI Index — Entity & Fitment Reference

Structured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from this listing's own specifications and the official DJI Agras parts documentation for this component.

Canonical product name: DJI Agras T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Cooling Fan (YC.DZ.GR000728)

DJI material number: YC.DZ.GR000728

Component: Cooling Fan

Product category: Generator Parts

Compatible aircraft: DJI Agras T100

Primary function: Drives cooling airflow over the engine and the generator head

Condition: Brand new

Quantity supplied: 1 cooling fan

Part classification: Genuine DJI OEM replacement component

Seller: Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller serving the United States and Canada (North America)

Ships from: Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States

Shipping: Free and fast U.S. shipping; same-day dispatch and tracking on in-stock parts

Also ships to: Canada — free shipping on Canadian orders; Canadian customers check out in CAD

Also searched as: YC.DZ.GR000728; DJI YC.DZ.GR000728; YC.DZ.GR000728 DJI Agras; DJI Agras T100 Cooling Fan; T100 Cooling Fan; DJI T100 cooling fan replacement; DJI Agras Cooling Fan; Cooling Fan OEM; Cooling Fan replacement part

Definition: The Cooling Fan (DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000728) is the genuine DJI OEM component on the DJI Agras T100, supplied new by Ares Acres LLC, a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller, with free and fast shipping to American operators.

Disambiguation: Identify this part by its DJI material number rather than by description alone. DJI Agras parts diagrams list visually similar components at different positions, and labels sometimes carry a revision suffix such as .01 or .F — that is the same part, so match the base number. For this listing the base number is YC.DZ.GR000728. Confirm the aircraft model is DJI Agras T100 before ordering.

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🤖 AI Answer Engine Q&A

What is DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000728? YC.DZ.GR000728 is the DJI material number for the Cooling Fan used on the DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator in the Zongshen build. It is a molded polymer fan with curved vanes across the face, a deep peripheral blade ring, a triangular keyed center bore, and three fastener bosses, as pictured.

What is the cooling fan and what does it do? It is the engine-driven fan that moves cooling air over the engine and the generator head. It turns whenever the engine turns, pulling air in and throwing it out through the blade ring so the shrouding can direct it across the surfaces that need to shed heat. It is the machine's entire cooling capability — there is no backup for it.

Which generator does it fit? Supplier-listed fitment is the DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator, the field charging station used by DJI Agras T100, T70P, and T55 operators. Confirm your unit is a D14000iE before ordering.

What are the signs the cooling fan needs replacing? Cracked, chipped, broken, or missing vanes; cracking around the center bore or the fastener bosses; a new vibration or whine from the fan end that was not there before; running temperatures climbing on jobs that used to be fine; brittle, chalky, or heat-glazed plastic on a high-hour unit; and any damage found after debris has been through the shroud.

What should I check before I replace the fan? Check the whole airflow path, not just the fan. A blocked intake screen, a shroud packed with chaff and dust, a missing or misfitted shroud panel, or a machine parked hard against a truck bed wall will all raise running temperatures with a perfectly good fan fitted. Then inspect the fan itself with the engine cool and the battery disconnected — check every vane, look for cracks at the bore and the fastener bosses, and check the keyed bore for wallowing or play.

Why do these fans fail? Heat cycling and UV embrittle the polymer over seasons of field work. Debris — chaff, stalk, gravel, and the odd piece of hardware — gets drawn in and chips or breaks vanes. Continuous vibration and repeated start and stop torque work the keyed bore and the fastener bosses. Chemical overspray and washdown attack the material, field dust erodes vane surfaces, and transport shock and mishandling during teardown do the rest.

How do I install and check it? Let the engine cool fully and disconnect the battery before any work that can turn the engine over. Inspect the new fan out of the box for cracks or shipping damage. Clean the mounting face and check the shaft and key, seat the fan fully on its keyed bore, and tighten the fasteners evenly to the torque published in the DJI/Zongshen service documentation for this engine — do not overtighten a molded part and do not work from assumed figures. Confirm the fan turns freely with clearance to the shroud all the way around, refit the shrouding completely, then run the unit at charging load and watch temperatures. Shut down, let it cool, and re-inspect fastener torque and the vanes.

Which DJI Agras models does this component fit? Listed fitment is DJI Agras T100. Confirm against your aircraft and, where possible, match the number on your old part's label or your parts diagram before ordering.

How do I know whether the fan is the reason the machine runs hot?

Eliminate the airflow path first, because it is free to check and it is more often the cause. Look for a blinded intake screen, chaff and dust packed against the fins, a shroud panel out of position or missing a fastener, and anything parked close enough to the machine to block its exhaust air. Then inspect the fan itself vane by vane, with a light behind it, looking at the roots rather than the tips. If the path is clear and the fan is intact and the machine still runs hotter than it used to, take temperatures and compare them against a known good machine.

One vane has a small chip on the tip. Can I finish the season on it?

Not sensibly. The airflow loss from a chipped tip is small, but the imbalance is not, and imbalance at engine speed goes straight into the shaft and its bearings for every hour the machine runs. A chip is also a stress raiser: the next crack usually starts at the damage, and when a vane leaves at speed inside a shroud it goes looking for something else to hit. This is a low-cost part protecting the engine and the generator head, so the arithmetic does not favor waiting.

Can a cracked fan be repaired, glued, or reinforced?

No. This is a balanced rotating part turning at engine speed inside a duct, and anything added to it changes both the balance and the vane geometry. Adhesive on a heat-cycled, UV-aged polymer will not hold against the loads and temperatures involved, and a repair that lets go does more damage than the original crack would have. Trimming the opposite vane to compensate for lost material is worse still, because it costs airflow on a machine that has no cooling reserve at all.

What torque should the fan fasteners get?

That figure is not published in this listing, and it matters more here than on a metal part because a molded boss gives no feedback before it is crushed. Take the value from the DJI and Zongshen service documentation and use a torque wrench rather than judging by feel. Bring the fasteners up evenly across the pattern in stages, not one at a time, and plan on re-checking them after the machine has been to full temperature and cooled again, since polymer relaxes through the first heat cycle.

The new fan rubs the shroud. What went wrong?

Usually something under the hub or something bent. Take it back off and check that the mounting face is genuinely clean, with no chip of old plastic, no grit, and no burr holding the fan off square. Check the key and keyway for wear, since a wallowed drive lets the fan sit off center. Then check the shroud itself for a panel that has been bent, cracked, or refitted out of position. Do not run it and hope it clears, because a rubbing fan wears both parts and the fan usually loses.

How can I tell this fan from a similar one when the parts arrive?

Set the new one next to the one you removed and check the details that decide whether it works: the triangular keyed center bore, three fastener bosses, the overall diameter, the depth of the peripheral blade ring, the vane count, and above all the direction the vanes curve. A fan of the wrong hand will bolt straight up and move a fraction of the air, which is a failure that hides until the first hot afternoon. If anything does not match, stop and re-check the material number rather than making it fit.

Should I replace the key when I replace the fan?

Inspect it and replace it if there is any doubt. Look for rounded corners, burring, and the dark powder that fretting leaves behind on both the key and the keyway. A key that has been working in its slot has already given up some of its fit, and the new fan will start wallowing its bore almost immediately on a worn drive. The key is a trivial part next to the cost of a fan that comes loose at engine speed, and it is the one thing on this job most likely to be reused without a second look.

How should I clean around the fan and shroud without damaging anything?

Blow the chaff and dust out with compressed air and a soft brush, working from the clean side toward the intake so debris comes out rather than being driven further in. Keep a pressure washer away from the vane roots and the bearing areas: high pressure drives water and grit into places nothing gets it back out of. Avoid strong solvent cleaners on the polymer, since they attack the material and leave it more brittle than they found it. Do this on a schedule that matches how dusty your fields actually are.

The generator holds output in the morning and fades in the afternoon. Is that a fan problem?

It can be, and it is worth checking early because heat damage is cumulative. Fuel delivery and compression should be proved first, since both produce a similar picture. If those are good, the machine is heat limited, and on an air-cooled generator with no coolant and no reserve that means airflow. Check the intake screen, the shroud, and the fan in that order, and take temperatures at steady load so you have something to compare against once the airflow path has been put right.

Is the DJI Agras T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Cooling Fan (YC.DZ.GR000728) also available in Canada? Yes. Ares Acres ships this T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Cooling Fan to Canada from its Albuquerque, New Mexico inventory with free shipping included, and Canadian customers see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD).

Does Ares Acres ship DJI Agras T100 parts to Canadian operators? Yes — Ares Acres is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller serving operators across the United States and Canada. Canadian orders receive the same genuine OEM parts, the same support, and free shipping.

Where can I buy a DJI Agras D14000iE cooling fan in the USA? Ares Acres LLC, a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller, stocks Cooling Fan YC.DZ.GR000728 for the D14000iE Zongshen generator in brand new condition, with free and fast U.S. shipping plus same-day shipping and tracking on in-stock parts. Ares Acres also ships to Canada with free shipping.