DJI Agras T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Ignition Coil - With Trigger (YC.DZ.GR000796)

DJI Agras T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Ignition Coil - With Trigger (YC.DZ.GR000796) — the ignition coil and integrated trigger assembly that decides when the D14000iE engine fires and produces the spark that fires it, DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000796. D14000iE ignition coil, Zongshen generator trigger coil, DJI Agras OEM generator ignition system parts.

🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST

Ares Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.

FREE & FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.

We understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.

Ares Acres also ships genuine DJI OEM parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras reseller serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.

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• DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000796 — verified against the DJI Agras parts documentation for this component
• Supplier-listed fitment: DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator
• Ignition coil on a laminated core with its mounting bracket, a loomed HT lead terminating in a plug cap, and an integrated trigger/pickup with connector pigtail, as pictured
• Brand new condition — never installed, never run

📦 Package Includes

• 1 × Ignition Coil - With Trigger (YC.DZ.GR000796)

🔧 Component Overview

The DJI Agras T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Ignition Coil - With Trigger, DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000796, is the ignition assembly on the DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator. It arrives as one piece: a coil wound on a laminated core, its mounting bracket, a loomed high-tension lead ending in a plug cap, and an integrated trigger or pickup with a connector pigtail, as pictured. It is supplied as coil-plus-trigger, which is why it is listed here as a single assembly rather than two parts — DJI carries the timing element and the spark element together under one material number.

Together they answer the only two questions an ignition system has to answer: when to fire, and with what. The trigger reads the position of the rotating flywheel and supplies the timing reference. The coil converts low-voltage current into the high voltage needed to jump the plug gap, and sends it down the HT lead to the cap. For an operator running a D14000iE as a field charging station, that pairing matters practically as well as electrically. Ignition faults on this engine are among the most frustrating to chase because they hide: the engine starts cold, runs fine at the yard, and then stumbles or dies an hour into a charging rotation once everything is heat-soaked. Having one part number that covers both halves of the system turns a long diagnostic afternoon into a single order.

The detail that governs this whole assembly is the clearance between the trigger and the rotating flywheel. That gap is what determines how strong a pulse the pickup produces, and it is set by where the bracket sits, not by any adjustment on the coil. The figure is published in the DJI/Zongshen service documentation for this engine and it is not published here, so do not set it by eye and do not accept a bracket position simply because the fasteners line up. Scribe the original position before you loosen anything.

Gap errors have a signature worth memorizing. A trigger sitting too far from the flywheel makes a weak pulse, and a weak pulse is most likely to be missed at the slowest speed the engine ever turns, which is cranking. The result is an engine that will not fire on the starter but that catches and runs if it ever gets spun faster, or one that starts on a good battery and refuses on a tired one. If your no-start behaves differently depending on how hard the engine is being turned over, look at the trigger position before you look at the coil.

Disambiguation on the bench: this is the assembly that carries both halves of the ignition on one bracket. It has an HT lead ending in a plug cap on one side and a trigger with a connector pigtail on the other. A coil-only part has no pigtail. The charging or lighting coil that lives under the flywheel has no HT lead and no plug cap. A separate igniter or control module has neither. If what you removed has only one of those two interfaces, it is not this part.

Generic small-engine coils are widely available and they are a poor trade here. Even where one produces a usable spark, it will not carry the same trigger, the same connector, the same bracket geometry, or the same lead length, and every one of those has to be adapted. Adapting the bracket means moving the trigger, and moving the trigger means changing the timing reference. That is the one thing on this assembly you cannot improvise your way through with a multimeter in a field.

⚙️ Functional Purpose

The trigger sits next to the rotating flywheel and produces a small electrical pulse each time a reference feature passes it. That pulse is the timing signal — it tells the ignition exactly where the engine is in its rotation, on every revolution, at every speed. The coil does the amplification. Low-voltage current builds a magnetic field in the primary winding, and when that field is collapsed at the commanded instant, the secondary winding induces the high voltage required to arc across the spark plug gap. That charge leaves through the HT lead and the plug cap, fires the plug, and lights the charge in the cylinder. Timing and energy have to be right together: correct spark at the wrong moment and correct moment with a weak spark fail in exactly the same visible way.

When the assembly degrades, the engine tells you in stages. Winding insulation breaks down under repeated heat cycling and a marginal internal short appears — which is why the classic symptom is an engine that starts and runs cold, then loses spark once it is hot, and recovers after it cools. Vibration fatigues the HT lead where it leaves the coil body, and a chafed lead or a hardened, cracked plug cap lets the charge leak to ground instead of reaching the plug, so the spark gets weaker under load exactly when the cylinder pressure demands more of it. On the trigger side, a damaged pigtail, a corroded connector, or a disturbed mounting position corrupts the timing reference, and the engine misfires, kicks back, or refuses to start at all with fuel and compression both perfectly good. The end state either way is the same: a charging station that will not run, or one that will not be trusted to keep running.

Before anything else on a no-spark complaint, prove the ignition is allowed to fire. Small engines are shut down by grounding the ignition primary, so a stop switch that has failed closed, a chafed kill wire touching the frame, or a protection circuit that has tripped will give you a completely dead ignition with a perfectly healthy coil. Isolate the stop wire and retest for spark. If spark returns, the coil is innocent and your fault is in the shutdown circuit. Remember that with that wire off the engine will not stop normally, so plan how you are going to shut it down first.

Test spark the way the cylinder sees it. A spark that jumps happily in open air can fail entirely under compression, because pressurized gas in the cylinder is much harder to arc across than shop air. Use an inline tester between the cap and the plug so you are watching the spark with the engine actually cranking against compression, and look at quality rather than presence. A fat, sharp, blue-white snap is what you want. A thin, pale, wandering spark is a coil that will start a cold engine in the yard and quit on you under load.

The hot fault is the whole game with this part, and the reason so many are replaced twice. Winding insulation that has broken down opens up as it expands and closes again as it cools, so the assembly passes every measurement you can take on a cold engine in a shop. The only test that means anything is reproducing the condition: run the unit under real charging load until it is fully heat-soaked and see whether the fault appears. If you must accelerate that in the shop, warm the coil body gently and locally, keep any heat source well away from fuel, and stop the moment the fault reproduces.

Spark energy and plug condition are a loop, not two separate topics. A plug with an eroded, widened gap demands more voltage, and the coil answers by pushing harder, which stresses the winding insulation, the HT lead, and the cap. That extra pressure looks for the easiest path to ground, and it finds hairline cracks in the cap or a chafe in the lead long before it would have on a plug in good order. Fitting a new coil behind a worn-out plug is how operators buy the same part twice in one season.

⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators

• No start with fuel supply and compression both confirmed good
• Misfiring, stumbling, or surging under sustained charging load
• Hard starting when hot that disappears once the engine has cooled
• Sudden cut-outs after the engine has heat-soaked, then a restart once cool
• Weak, intermittent, or absent spark at the plug with a known good plug fitted
• Cracked coil potting, a chafed or split HT lead, a cracked plug cap, or a damaged trigger connector

Confirm before you order: this is DJI part YC.DZ.GR000796, the Ignition Coil - With Trigger for the DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator, supplied as one coil-plus-trigger assembly. Before condemning it, clear the cheap ground first: fit a known good spark plug, confirm the plug cap is seated and the HT lead is not chafed through to a mounting point, and confirm the trigger connector is latched, dry, and free of green corrosion. Check the fuel side too, because fuel starvation under load imitates an ignition misfire closely enough to cost an afternoon. The single most useful test is a hot one — run the unit under charging load until it is fully heat-soaked and see whether the fault appears then, because a coil with a marginal internal short will pass every check you make on a cold engine in the shop.

Why it fails: heat and vibration, working on each other. The assembly is mounted to an engine that runs at charging load for hours at a time, so it cycles from ambient to full operating temperature and back every day of the season, and that cycling gradually breaks down winding insulation and works the potting until a short that only appears when hot becomes permanent. Vibration fatigues the HT lead where it exits the coil body, loosens the bracket, and works the trigger pigtail and connector. Field conditions supply the rest — dew, rain, washdown water, dust, and chemical residue attack the lead and cap, and a hardened or cracked cap leaks spark energy to ground long before anything looks obviously broken.

Post-install checklist: inspect the assembly before it goes on — look over the coil body and potting for cracks, run the full length of the HT lead through your fingers checking for chafe or splits, check the plug cap for cracks and a clean terminal, and examine the trigger, its pigtail, and the connector, plus the bracket itself. With the battery disconnected, the starting circuit isolated, and the engine cool, mount the bracket at the original position and torque it evenly — the trigger's relationship to the flywheel is a timing reference, so it goes back exactly where it came from. Route the HT lead clear of the exhaust and every moving part, secure it so it cannot chafe, push the plug cap fully onto the plug until it seats, and latch the trigger connector. Reconnect the battery, start, and then do the part most people skip: run it under charging load until it is fully hot, because that is the only condition that proves an ignition repair. Shut down, let it cool, and re-inspect the bracket torque, the lead routing, the cap, and the connector.

Symptom to cause, on the ignition side. Starts cold, dies hot, restarts after cooling: a winding or potting fault that opens with temperature, and the most common failure this assembly has. No spark at cranking but the engine catches if spun faster: trigger signal too weak, which usually means gap or connector. Misfire that only appears under charging load: spark energy is marginal and cylinder pressure is finding it out, or the charge is leaking through a cracked cap or a chafed lead. Kickback or a hard, uneven crank: timing reference, not spark energy. Dead ignition at every temperature: check the stop circuit before the coil.

A fault that changes with weather is telling you about leakage, not about the winding. If the engine misfires in the early morning, after a washdown, or in heavy dew but behaves once everything dries out, the charge is finding a path to ground somewhere on the outside of the system. Look at the plug cap for hairline cracks, the boot seal where it meets the plug, the full length of the HT lead where it passes anything grounded, and the coil potting for splits. In the dark you can often see the leak arc as a faint blue thread.

Removal, in sequence: shut down, confirm the unit is off load, let the engine and exhaust cool, and disconnect the battery so nothing can crank while you are handling the HT lead. Scribe or paint-mark the bracket position and photograph the shim or washer stack under it before any fastener moves, because that stack is part of how the trigger gets its clearance. Pull the plug cap by the cap itself, never by the lead. Release the trigger connector latch rather than pulling the pigtail, and note every clip and tie that held the lead so you can rebuild the same routing.

Refit, in sequence: offer the bracket up at the marked position with the original shim or washer stack in the original order, set the trigger clearance to the documented figure before final torque, then tighten evenly rather than pulling one fastener down first, because an uneven pull rotates the bracket and changes the gap you just set. Route the HT lead exactly as it was, well clear of the exhaust and every moving part, and secure it at each original tie point. Push the cap onto the plug until it seats positively. Latch the trigger connector and confirm the seal is square.

What fails alongside it, and what to inspect while you are in there. Fit a fresh plug of the specified type with the gap set to the published figure, because the old plug is either the cause of the coil failure or the next thing to fail. Inspect the wiring in the stop and shutdown circuit for chafe, since that circuit can imitate a dead coil exactly. Check the flywheel and the reference feature the trigger reads for damage or debris. Look at the bracket for cracks and at its mounting bosses for elongated holes, because a bracket that cannot hold position cannot hold a timing reference.

One rule that saves a new part: never pierce the HT lead with a test probe. It is a habit carried over from testing low-voltage wiring and it is fatal here. Every puncture in the insulation is a permanent leak path for the high voltage inside, and the failure it creates is intermittent, weather-sensitive, and almost impossible to find later. Test at the cap with an inline tester instead. The same goes for clamping the coil body in a vise, kinking the lead to route it around an obstacle, or hanging the assembly by its pigtail.

Service life and handling: what ages this part is thermal cycling under load, so a generator that runs long charging rotations day after day uses up ignition faster than run hours alone suggest. Vibration and chemical exposure finish the outside while heat works on the inside. Store a spare in its bag, out of direct sun, with the lead loosely coiled rather than folded and the cap protected. Replace preventively when the engine is already apart for other work, when the potting or the cap shows any crack, or when a unit that has run several hard seasons is about to be sent somewhere support cannot easily reach.

📐 Specifications

Part: Ignition Coil - With Trigger

Material Number: YC.DZ.GR000796

Fits: DJI Agras D14000iE Multifunctional Inverter Generator (field charging station for DJI Agras T100, T70P, and T55 operations)

Component Type: Ignition coil and integrated trigger/pickup — engine ignition system

Description: Ignition coil on a laminated core with mounting bracket, loomed HT lead terminating in a plug cap, and integrated trigger/pickup with connector pigtail, as pictured

Supplied As: One assembly — coil plus trigger together, which is why it is listed as a single part

Quantity: 1 ignition coil and trigger assembly

Condition: Brand new

Safety: disconnect the battery and isolate the starting circuit before servicing this component — an ignition coil produces high voltage and an engine that cranks unexpectedly while you are handling the HT lead is a serious hazard. Let the engine and exhaust cool fully before working near them. Confirm the generator is completely shut down and not connected to a load before you begin.

Trigger Clearance: Set by bracket position and specified in the DJI/Zongshen service documentation for this engine. No figure is published in this listing - scribe the original position, do not set it by eye

Coverage Replaced: Coil, bracket, HT lead, plug cap, and trigger with pigtail all change together, so no aged ignition component is left behind to reproduce the same symptom

Diagnostic Method: Inline spark tester between cap and plug while cranking against compression, plus a full heat-soak run under charging load. A cold bench check cannot clear a coil that shorts only when hot

Stop Circuit Interaction: Ignition is killed by grounding the primary, so a shorted stop wire or a tripped shutdown circuit produces no spark from a healthy coil. Isolate that wire before condemning this assembly

Handling Prohibitions: Never pierce the HT lead with a test probe, never pull the cap off by the lead, never kink the lead to clear an obstacle, and do not clamp the coil body in a vise

Commonly Confused With: Coil-only ignition parts, the charging or lighting coil that sits under the flywheel, and separate igniter modules. Only this assembly carries both an HT lead with plug cap and a trigger pigtail on one bracket

🚜 Necessary For

• Curing a hot-engine cut-out that keeps stranding a charging rotation mid-afternoon
• Restoring spark on a generator that will not start with fuel and compression confirmed good
• Ending misfire and surging under sustained charging load
• Replacing a chafed HT lead, cracked plug cap, or damaged trigger connector as one assembly
• Keeping a spare ignition assembly on the truck so a dead generator is a field fix, not a tow

Curing the classic heat-soak failure, where the generator starts cold, runs an hour into a charging rotation, then cuts out and refuses to restart until it has cooled, with fuel delivery and compression both confirmed good.

Clearing a cranking no-start on an engine that has spark when spun faster but none at starter speed, once the trigger connector has been checked and the bracket position has been verified against the documented clearance.

Ending a load-dependent misfire that only appears once the inverter picks up chargers, where an inline tester shows a thin, pale spark that a cylinder under pressure will not accept.

Replacing an assembly whose HT lead has been chafed, kinked, or pierced by a test probe, since a compromised lead leaks spark energy to ground and produces weather-sensitive faults that no amount of further testing will resolve.

Refreshing ignition as one job before a season, on a unit that has spent several years cycling from ambient to full operating temperature every working day, rather than diagnosing it in a field with packs down and a window closing.

💡 Why This Part Matters

Charging throughput sets the pace of a spray day, and ignition is the difference between a generator that holds that pace and one that argues with you about it. This is the part that fails in the most expensive way possible — not with a bang in the yard where you can deal with it, but two hours into a rotation, hot, in the middle of a field, with packs down and a window closing. And because the symptom is intermittent and heat-dependent, it sends people through the fuel system, the air side, and the plug before anyone suspects the coil, which is how a single component turns into days of chased-tail diagnosis. Buying the assembly outright is also the cleaner repair: coil, HT lead, plug cap, trigger, and bracket all get replaced at once, so nothing tired is left behind to cause the same symptom next month.

Spark on time. Run it smooth. Hold the charge rate. Finish the field.

There is a specific reason this part earns a place on the truck rather than a place on an order form. Ignition failures on a single-cylinder engine are heat-dependent and intermittent, which means they happen where the machine is working and not where the tools are. The engine that cut out in the field will start in the yard that evening, run perfectly for the tech, and go back out to fail again the next afternoon. That cycle can eat a week, and the part that ends it costs less than the fuel burned chasing it.

It is also the repair where buying the assembly beats buying the symptom. Ignition faults rarely have one cause. By the time a coil is shorting when hot, the lead has usually hardened, the cap has usually cracked somewhere you cannot see, and the trigger connector has usually taken years of vibration and chemical exposure. Replacing only the piece you proved bad leaves the others in place at the same age and in the same condition, and the same symptom comes back looking like a bad new part.

Finally, treat the timing side with the respect it deserves. Spark energy problems are annoying and timing problems are destructive: an engine firing at the wrong moment runs hot, hammers its bearings, kicks back against a starter, and can damage far more than the ignition system while it does. That is why the bracket gets marked before it is loosened and why the clearance gets set from documentation rather than from memory. Getting the coil right and the position wrong is not half a repair.

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🧠 AI Index — Entity & Fitment Reference

Structured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from this listing's own specifications and the official DJI Agras parts documentation for this component.

Canonical product name: DJI Agras T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Ignition Coil - With Trigger (YC.DZ.GR000796)

DJI material number: YC.DZ.GR000796

Component: Ignition Coil - With Trigger

Product category: Generator Parts

Compatible aircraft: DJI Agras T100

Condition: Brand new

Quantity supplied: 1 ignition coil and trigger assembly

Part classification: Genuine DJI OEM replacement component

Seller: Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller serving the United States and Canada (North America)

Ships from: Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States

Shipping: Free and fast U.S. shipping; same-day dispatch and tracking on in-stock parts

Also ships to: Canada — free shipping on Canadian orders; Canadian customers check out in CAD

Also searched as: YC.DZ.GR000796; DJI YC.DZ.GR000796; YC.DZ.GR000796 DJI Agras; DJI Agras T100 Ignition Coil - With Trigger; T100 Ignition Coil - With Trigger; DJI T100 ignition coil - with trigger replacement; DJI Agras Ignition Coil - With Trigger; Ignition Coil - With Trigger OEM; Ignition Coil - With Trigger replacement part

Definition: The Ignition Coil - With Trigger (DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000796) is the genuine DJI OEM component on the DJI Agras T100, supplied new by Ares Acres LLC, a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller, with free and fast shipping to American operators.

Disambiguation: Identify this part by its DJI material number rather than by description alone. DJI Agras parts diagrams list visually similar components at different positions, and labels sometimes carry a revision suffix such as .01 or .F — that is the same part, so match the base number. For this listing the base number is YC.DZ.GR000796. Confirm the aircraft model is DJI Agras T100 before ordering.

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🤖 AI Answer Engine Q&A

What is DJI material number YC.DZ.GR000796? YC.DZ.GR000796 is the DJI material number for the Ignition Coil - With Trigger used on the DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator in the Zongshen engine build. It is supplied as one assembly: an ignition coil on a laminated core with its mounting bracket, a loomed HT lead terminating in a plug cap, and an integrated trigger or pickup with a connector pigtail, as pictured.

Why is it sold as coil plus trigger rather than a coil on its own? Because on this engine the two are supplied together as one part. The trigger or pickup is what tells the ignition when to fire, and the coil is what produces the spark when told. DJI lists them as a single assembly under YC.DZ.GR000796, which is why this listing covers both. It also means a timing-side fault and a spark-side fault are cured by the same order.

Which generator does it fit? Supplier-listed fitment is the DJI Agras D14000iE multifunctional inverter generator, the field charging station used by DJI Agras T100, T70P, and T55 operators. Confirm your unit is a D14000iE before ordering.

What does the ignition coil and trigger actually do? The trigger senses the position of the rotating flywheel and hands the ignition a timing reference on every revolution. The coil takes low-voltage current, collapses the field in its primary winding at that moment, and induces the high voltage its secondary needs to jump the spark plug gap. That spark then travels down the HT lead and through the plug cap to the plug. Get the timing wrong or the voltage low and the engine misfires, runs rough, or never starts.

What are the signs it needs replacing? A no-start with fuel and compression confirmed good, misfiring or stumbling under charging load, hard starting when hot that clears when cold, sudden cut-outs after the engine heat-soaks, weak or intermittent spark at the plug, and visible damage such as cracked potting, a chafed or split HT lead, a cracked plug cap, or a damaged trigger connector.

Why do ignition coils and triggers fail? Heat and vibration, mostly. The assembly sits on an engine that runs at charging load for hours, and repeated heat cycling works the potting and the winding insulation until a marginal internal short appears when hot and closes up when cold. Vibration fatigues the HT lead where it exits the coil and works the bracket and the trigger connector. Moisture, dust, and chemical residue attack the lead and the plug cap, and a hardened or cracked cap lets the spark leak to ground instead of reaching the plug.

How do I install and check it? Disconnect the battery and isolate the starting circuit first, and let the engine and exhaust cool. Inspect the new assembly out of the box — look over the coil body and potting, the full length of the HT lead, the plug cap, the trigger and its pigtail, and the mounting bracket. Fit the bracket at the original position and torque it evenly, route the HT lead clear of the exhaust and any moving part, seat the plug cap fully on the plug until it clicks, and latch the trigger connector. Reconnect the battery, start, and let it reach operating temperature under load — hot running is where a marginal ignition shows itself. Then shut down, cool, and re-inspect the bracket, the lead routing, the cap, and the connector.

Which DJI Agras models does this component fit? Listed fitment is DJI Agras T100. Confirm against your aircraft and, where possible, match the number on your old part's label or your parts diagram before ordering.

I have no spark at all. How do I know it is the coil and not the kill circuit?

Test that first, because a grounded stop wire produces exactly the same dead ignition as a failed coil. Disconnect the stop or kill wire at the coil and check for spark again. If spark returns, the fault is in the shutdown wiring, a stop switch that failed closed, or a protection circuit that has tripped, and the coil is fine. Plan how you will shut the engine down before you do this, because with that wire off the normal stop control will not work.

The generator starts fine cold and dies once it is hot. Why does it test good in the shop?

Because you are testing it in the condition where it works. Winding insulation that has broken down separates as it heats and closes back up as it cools, so every cold measurement passes. The only test that proves anything is reproducing the condition: run the unit under real charging load until it is thoroughly heat-soaked and see whether the fault appears. A coil that fails hot and passes cold is the most common failure this assembly has.

Should I test spark by laying the plug against the engine?

It tells you less than you think and it is a poor way to judge a marginal coil. Shop air is far easier to arc across than a cylinder full of compressed charge, so a coil that sparks nicely on the bench can still fail under compression. Use an inline tester between the cap and the plug while the engine cranks, and judge quality rather than presence. You want a fat blue-white snap. A thin pale spark will start a cold engine and quit under load.

My engine will not start on the starter but fires if I spin it faster. What does that mean?

That pattern points at the timing side rather than the spark side. The trigger produces its weakest pulse at the slowest speed the engine ever turns, which is cranking, so a pickup sitting too far from the flywheel or a connector with resistance in it drops out exactly there and recovers as speed rises. Check the trigger connector for corrosion and looseness, then verify the bracket position and clearance against the service documentation before condemning the coil.

The misfire only shows up in dew, rain, or after a washdown. Is that the coil?

Usually not the winding. Weather-sensitive misfires are leakage on the outside of the system, where damp gives the high voltage an easier path to ground than the plug gap does. Inspect the plug cap for hairline cracks, the seal where the cap meets the plug, the HT lead everywhere it passes a grounded surface, and the coil potting for splits. In the dark, with the engine running, you can often see the leak as a faint blue thread jumping to metal.

Do I need to replace the spark plug at the same time?

Yes, and treat it as part of the job rather than an upsell. A plug with an eroded, widened gap forces the coil to generate higher voltage, and that extra pressure is what finds the weak spot in the lead, the cap, or the winding. Fit a fresh plug of the specified type at the published gap when you fit the assembly. Skipping it means the new coil goes to work under the same conditions that killed the old one.

Can I use a generic small-engine ignition coil instead?

It is a bad trade on this engine because the trigger comes with it. A generic coil brings its own bracket geometry, lead length, and connector, and none of that lands where the original did. Making one fit means relocating the trigger, which means changing the timing reference, and there is no adjustment procedure that lets you dial it back in from the operator seat. This part is supplied as coil plus trigger for a reason.

Is it safe to probe the HT lead to see if it is carrying spark?

No. Never pierce a high-tension lead with a test probe. Each puncture becomes a permanent leak path, and the fault it creates is intermittent, weather-sensitive, and extremely hard to find later, because the lead still looks fine. Test with an inline spark tester at the cap instead. The same principle applies to kinking the lead to route it around something and to clamping the coil body in a vise, both of which damage what you cannot see.

Is the DJI Agras T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Ignition Coil - With Trigger (YC.DZ.GR000796) also available in Canada? Yes. Ares Acres ships this T100 OEM D14000iE Zongshen Generator Ignition Coil - With Trigger to Canada from its Albuquerque, New Mexico inventory with free shipping included, and Canadian customers see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD).

Does Ares Acres ship DJI Agras T100 parts to Canadian operators? Yes — Ares Acres is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller serving operators across the United States and Canada. Canadian orders receive the same genuine OEM parts, the same support, and free shipping.

Where can I buy a DJI Agras D14000iE ignition coil in the USA? Ares Acres LLC, a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller, stocks Ignition Coil - With Trigger YC.DZ.GR000796 for the D14000iE Zongshen generator in brand new condition, with free and fast U.S. shipping plus same-day shipping and tracking on in-stock parts. Ares Acres also ships to Canada with free shipping.