DJI Agras T100 OEM Front Shell Bottom Cover (YC.JG.ZS006460)

DJI Agras T100 OEM Front Shell Bottom Cover (YC.JG.ZS006460) — This is the front shell bottom cover that closes the underside of the nose section on the DJI Agras T100. A cracked or missing cover leaves the forward electronics bay open to spray drift, dust, and washdown water. DJI material number YC.JG.ZS006460. Front Shell Bottom Cover | Structural Component | DJI Agras T100 Airframe | Field-Ready OEM Replacement Component.

DJI Material Number (SKU): YC.JG.ZS006460 — this is the official DJI part number for this exact component. Match it to your parts diagram or your old part's label to confirm fitment before ordering.

🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST

Ares Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.

FREE & FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.

We understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.

Ares Acres also ships genuine DJI OEM parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras reseller serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.

✅ DJI Agras T100 Compatibility Guarantee

• 🇺🇸 USA Compatibility Guarantee
• 👍🏻 Satisfaction Guarantee
• 💵 Money Back Guarantee
• 📦 Same Day Shipping & Tracking
• DJI material number YC.JG.ZS006460 — listed verbatim on the official DJI Agras T100 parts breakdown
• Supplier-listed fitment: DJI Agras T100
• Brand new condition — never installed, never flown

📦 Package Includes

• 1 × OEM Front Shell Bottom Cover (YC.JG.ZS006460)
• OEM protective packaging

🔧 Component Overview

The DJI Agras T100 OEM Front Shell Bottom Cover is the OEM front shell bottom cover in the middle and rear frame of the DJI Agras T100, part of the structure carrying the battery, payload structure, and rear electronics through every flight.

Carrying the battery, payload structure, and rear electronics through every flight is the job description for the middle and rear frame, and this component is part of how it gets done. The T100 is a working machine — it earns its keep in fill-and-fly cycles, not hangar hours — and every component in the middle and rear frame is sized, shaped, and specified around that duty. On the official parts diagram it sits alongside Screw M30-HC080080-55-85, RTK Bracket, RTK Antenna Module.

Ignore a failing front shell bottom cover and the bill compounds: downtime in the middle of an application window, collateral wear on the parts around it, and jobs that slip to a competitor while the aircraft sits. Replacing it costs a part; not replacing it costs acres. That trade only runs one direction.

For professional farmers, aerial applicators, and commercial drone operators, this component is how the middle and rear frame stays field-ready instead of becoming the reason the aircraft sits.

This is a working part on a working aircraft.

The T100 works brutally hard for its living, including:

• Carrying the battery, payload structure, and rear electronics through every flight
• Dawn-to-dusk spray campaigns during narrow application windows
• Repeated fill-fly-return cycles with minutes on the ground between loads
• Full-payload takeoffs from field edges, dozens of times per day
• Chemical exposure from fungicides, herbicides, insecticides, and foliar fertilizers
• Pressure-washer rinse-downs at the end of every spray day
• Vibration from eight propulsion motors running at working power
• Transport bouncing on trailers and truck beds between fields
• Temperature swings from cold morning starts to full-sun afternoons

What attacks this component in the field:

• Vibration from the propulsion system every flight hour
• Chemical exposure from spray drift and washdown
• UV degradation across a season outdoors
• Shock loads from field-edge landings
• Grit and dust working into interfaces
• Thermal cycling from dawn starts to afternoon heat
• Stress concentration at mounting points
• Wear from repeated maintenance access

That duty cycle is exactly what retires this component. None of these stresses is dramatic on its own — the accumulation is what does it. This is why structural and mounting parts are inspection items every time the middle and rear frame is opened up, and why operators who run hard keep spares on the shelf.

A healthy front shell bottom cover delivers:

• Factory-correct fit in the middle and rear frame — no modification, no adaptation
• Exact OEM behavior the surrounding components were engineered around
• Restored function you can verify on the first post-repair check
• Sealing and protection maintained to the factory standard
• One less known-weak point flying through your application window
• Confidence that the repair is done, not patched
• A maintenance log entry with a real DJI part number behind it
• Full compatibility with the parts around it — because it is the part the diagram calls for

Stock the front shell bottom cover before the season does its work, and the middle and rear frame never becomes the reason the aircraft sits.

Confirm the cover is the fault and not the thing it is hiding. A bottom cover on the nose is the first part an operator sees after a strike, so it takes the blame for problems that live behind it. Before ordering, take the cover off and look at what it was protecting. If the complaint is a warning message, a sensor fault, or moisture in the forward bay, the cover may only be the entry path rather than the failure. Find out how the water got in, then decide whether the panel itself is still serviceable.

Judge it off the aircraft on a flat bench. Molded covers distort after an impact or after long storage under weight, and the distortion stays invisible while the part is bolted down because the fasteners pull it into shape. Set the removed cover on a flat surface and see whether it rocks. Offer it back up to the airframe dry with no fasteners and look for a corner that stands proud or a gap along one edge. A cover you have to pull down to close is loading its bosses on every flight.

Hunt hairline cracks with light rather than with a casual look. Wash the cover, dry it completely, then hold a strong light behind and across the surface at a low angle while you flex the panel gently by hand. A crack opens under flex and shows as a dark line that moves. The other reliable tell is a wet streak that keeps coming back on a panel that is otherwise dry, because a crack holds rinse water and weeps it back out long after the surrounding surface has gone dry.

Read stress whitening for what caused it. Whitening that radiates from one point in a starburst is impact, and something struck the nose there. Whitening that shows up at several fastener bosses at once with no impact mark anywhere is a different message: either the fasteners have been run down too hard, or the material has aged and stopped flexing the way it used to. The first is a single event you can move past. The second says the rest of the panel is not far behind it.

Test every fastener boss before you call the cover good. Run each screw in by hand and feel for one that turns and turns without pulling down, or one that comes up tight and then goes slack a moment later. Either behavior means the insert or the thread in that boss is gone. A cover clamped at every point but one will drum against the airframe at that corner in rotor downwash, and the crack starts from that boss rather than from anywhere you can see on the outside.

Separate a cover problem from a mounting problem on the airframe side. If a brand new panel sits proud in the same place the old one did, the fault is in the structure it lands on rather than in the part you just bought. Check the airframe bosses and the landing face for a cracked lug, a raised burr from a previous removal, or an insert that has pulled. Fitting a second new cover onto a damaged landing gives you the same gap and the same cracking pattern in the same corner.

Use the RTK hardware as a cross check when you suspect impact. The official parts breakdown lists the RTK bracket and the RTK antenna module alongside this cover, so a blow hard enough to crack the panel went through the same region of the airframe. Before you decide the damage stopped at the cover, look at the bracket for distortion, at the antenna module and its lead for damage or chafe, and at the screw callout the diagram lists at that position.

Decide on the panel itself, not on how it looks after a wash. A cover with scuffs, spray staining, or a faded finish is cosmetic and can stay in service. A cover that is cracked through, distorted so the edges will not close, whitened at more than one boss, or unable to be clamped at every point has failed structurally and should come off. Cosmetics do not keep water out of a forward electronics bay. Geometry and clamp load do, and those are what you are grading.

⚙️ Functional Purpose

The front shell bottom cover is designed to do one job in the middle and rear frame and do it to specification: carrying the battery, payload structure, and rear electronics through every flight.

The component:

• Serves the middle and rear frame of the DJI Agras T100 exactly as the factory intends
• Supports carrying the battery, payload structure, and rear electronics through every flight
• Maintains the tolerances and interfaces the surrounding parts depend on
• Withstands the chemical, vibration, and washdown environment of agricultural work
• Preserves the sealing and protection strategy of the platform
• Keeps failure modes visible and diagnosable instead of mysterious
• Restores factory behavior immediately upon correct installation
• Protects the more expensive components it works alongside
• Carries the exact DJI specification for its position
• Supports safe, predictable operation under full payload
• Eliminates the guesswork of near-fit substitutes
• Keeps the aircraft inside its designed maintenance program
• Holds up across a full season of professional duty

Function on the T100 is a chain: airframe performance depends on the middle and rear frame, and the middle and rear frame depends on every part in it holding specification. This component is one link in that chain — and chains fail at the worn link, not the average one.

That is why the platform's maintenance philosophy is inspection and renewal, not run-to-failure. The operators with the best uptime records are not the ones with the newest aircraft — they are the ones who replace parts like this when inspection says so, on their own schedule instead of the failure's.

A failing front shell bottom cover costs you:

• Downtime in the middle of an application window — the most expensive hours in agriculture
• Acres not covered while the aircraft waits on a part
• Collateral wear on the components around the failing one
• Diagnostic hours chasing symptoms instead of causes
• Rework when a temporary fix lets go mid-job
• Customer trust when scheduled work slips
• Higher repair bills the longer the fault runs
• Risk exposure every flight the fault remains aboard
• Resale value on an airframe with deferred maintenance

Fix it on your schedule, not the failure's.

Make the aircraft safe before a tool touches it. Power down, disconnect the flight batteries, and let the aircraft sit long enough that nothing is live. If the tank has anything in it, drain and flush the spray system with clean water first, because tipping an aircraft to reach the underside will move whatever is left in the plumbing. Work with the airframe supported so it cannot roll or drop while the nose is open, and wear gloves for the residue on the panel.

Wash the underside before you unfasten anything. Dried spray product, dust, and chaff pack into the seam and around the fastener heads, and every bit of it falls into the forward bay the moment the cover comes away. Rinse at low pressure, brush the fastener heads clean so a driver can seat fully, and let it dry. Two minutes with a brush prevents an hour of picking grit out of connectors and off the sealing faces you are about to close back up.

Photograph the area before anything moves. Record the fastener pattern and which length went where if they differ, how any harness inside is routed and clipped, and where each grommet or pass through sits. Covers like this one often hold a loom or a hose against the structure, so the routing you find is the routing the designer intended. Rebuilding it from memory a week later is how a wire ends up rubbing on a fastener head for an entire season.

Back the screws out square and slowly. Fasteners landing in plastic bosses do not tolerate an angled driver, and a rounded head on the underside of a nose is a far larger job than the one you started. Use a driver that fills the recess completely. If a screw spins without lifting, the insert is turning in its boss: press the cover up against it to add friction and ease it out rather than driving harder, and mark that boss so you check the same location on the new part.

Support the panel as the last fasteners come out. A bottom cover carries its own weight plus whatever has packed on top of it, and letting it drop the last inch is how the flange gets bruised and how anything captive behind it ends up on the floor. Take the last two fasteners out with a hand under the panel, then lower it straight down rather than pivoting it, so nothing inside gets dragged across a connector, a clip, or an exposed pin.

Break the seam with a plastic trim tool and nothing sharper. Work around the perimeter a little at a time instead of levering one corner up. A screwdriver at the edge gouges the mating flange, and that flange is the surface that has to close cleanly against the airframe, so a nick there becomes a permanent gap that lets mist and washdown water into the bay. Watch for any seal or gasket at the seam and note exactly where it sits before it has a chance to move.

Inspect the bay while you have it open, because you will not have this access again for a while. Wash out settled residue, check that any drain or weep path is clear rather than plugged with dried product, and look over every connector for moisture and for the green or white deposits that mean spray solution has been sitting in it. Look at the airframe bosses the cover lands on for cracks, and at the mating panels around it for damage of their own.

Dry fit the new cover before a single fastener goes in. Hold it up and confirm every hole lines up on its boss without the panel being pulled sideways, that the flange sits down all the way around, and that no harness or hose is crossing the seam. The single most common mistake on any bottom cover is trapping a wire in the joint. It closes, it looks correct, and the wire is being pinched every time the airframe flexes until the insulation finally gives up.

Start every fastener by hand and pull the cover down evenly. Get them all threaded with fingers first, confirm the panel is closing uniformly with no corner standing proud, then tighten progressively around the perimeter rather than running each one home in turn. Use the DJI torque value with a calibrated driver where one is published. Into plastic bosses, the failure mode of extra tightness is a stripped insert or a fresh crack in a part that was perfect an hour ago.

Verify before the aircraft goes back on paid work. Power up and confirm the aircraft reports no new faults, paying particular attention to anything relating to hardware in the forward section such as RTK positioning, which the parts breakdown lists at this position. Then run the aircraft up on the ground and listen at the nose for a drum or a buzz that was not there before, which is the sound of a panel that is not clamped evenly at every point.

Do a water check before a chemical day. Rinse the underside the way you would at the end of a job, then back off a couple of fasteners at one corner and look for water that has found its way past the seam. It is a five minute check and it is the only honest way to know the panel is sealing rather than just sitting flush. Retorque the fasteners after the first working day as well, since a new panel beds down against its landing faces.

⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators

• Visible cracking, deformation, or impact damage
• Stress-whitening at load points
• Loose fit where the part should seat firmly
• Movement or rattle the design does not allow
• Wear marks from parts contacting where they should not
• Fastener holes elongated or damaged
• Chemical or UV degradation of the material
• Damage found during teardown of the assembly
• Misalignment of the components this part positions
• Noise or vibration traced to this position
• Damage after a hard landing or transport strike
• Previous field repair with tape, glue, or improvisation

What kills structural and mounting parts: the compounding of ordinary duty. Chemical exposure attacks materials, vibration works at every interface, UV ages every exposed surface, and washdowns drive water at every seam — repeated across hundreds of cycles per season. Add the occasional hard landing or transport knock and the result is predictable: the part that was fine in spring is the failure point by late season.

Replacement and verification: Replacement is a standard shop task on the T100: open access to the middle and rear frame, document connections and hardware positions, swap the front shell bottom cover for the OEM unit, and reassemble with attention to seating, routing, and torque. Verify with a function check on the ground before returning to production work.

Confirm before you order: this is DJI part YC.JG.ZS006460. Check the label on your old front shell bottom cover or the position in your official parts diagram and match the number — revision suffixes like .01 or .F on a label are the same part.

A drum, a buzz, or a new note from the nose in flight is almost always a cover that is no longer clamped at every point. Downwash under the rotors is not gentle, and a panel held at all but one boss will vibrate against the airframe at that corner. The noise itself is harmless. What it is doing to the material around the loose boss is not, because that is a crack forming from the inside face of the panel where you cannot see it yet.

Water or spray residue found in the forward bay after a washdown means the seam is no longer sealing, and the cover is only one of two possible reasons. Either the panel is cracked or distorted so it cannot close, or a fastener boss has failed and the flange is standing off at that point. Both are reasons to replace. Neither is cured by tightening what is left, which only accelerates the loss of the bosses still doing their job.

Fasteners that will not come to a firm stop, or that need retightening after every few jobs, mean the bosses are failing rather than the screws backing out. Once one insert has spun, the clamp load redistributes onto its neighbors, so the failures arrive in sequence rather than one at a time. A cover that has already needed two bosses worked around is telling you the rest are carrying more than they were ever designed to carry.

A gap along one edge that will not pull closed no matter how the fasteners are tightened has two causes and both matter. Either something is trapped in the seam, in which case a wire or a hose is being crushed out of sight, or the panel has been distorted and no longer matches the airframe. Forcing it down with fastener tension puts a permanent load into a part that is already unhappy and hides the pinched item where nobody will look for it.

A chalky surface that leaves powder on your hand, or a panel gone visibly faded and dull next to the rest of the airframe, is polymer that has been aging in sunlight and chemistry. The color change is cosmetic. The loss of flexibility underneath it is not. A cover in that condition cracks from a knock it would have shrugged off when new, and it cracks first at the fastener bosses, where the deflection concentrates every time the panel flexes.

Dried product, mud, or chaff packed behind the cover is more than untidy. It holds moisture and chemical against connectors and structure, it blocks the drain paths so the next bit of water has nowhere to go, and it adds mass in an area that is being vibrated every flight hour. Finding a packed bay also proves the cover has not been sealing, so the entry path is worth locating while the panel is off and everything is visible.

Repeated positioning or RTK complaints after a nose strike are worth taking back to this area rather than straight to the antenna. The parts breakdown lists the RTK bracket and antenna module alongside this cover, which means one event can reach both. Check the bracket for distortion and the lead for chafe at the same time you look at the panel, because a cracked cover is the visible half of a blow that went through the whole nose section.

Elongated or torn out fastener holes tell you the panel has been flying loose for a while. Round holes go oval only when the cover has been moving against its fasteners, and by the time the hole shows it, the material around it is worked and the sealing face at that corner has been standing open. Replace rather than washering over it. A washer only spreads the load onto material that has already been fatigued past the point of holding.

Any previous field repair on this panel, whether tape, adhesive, a backing plate, or a fastener driven into fresh material, is a replacement indicator on its own. The nose cover has to hold a shape and keep a bay closed, and a repair changes both. It also traps chemical residue in the crack line where nothing can flush it out, so the material keeps degrading under the patch while everyone assumes the problem was handled months ago.

📐 Specifications

DJI Material Number: YC.JG.ZS006460

Part: Front Shell Bottom Cover

Type: OEM structural / mounting component

Compatibility:

• DJI Agras T100
• Position: the middle and rear frame
• Diagram sheet: Middle & Rear Frame (1) (official T100 parts list)

Quantity: 1

Installation Area: The middle and rear frame

Function: Carrying the battery, payload structure, and rear electronics through every flight

Construction: DJI OEM molded or machined component manufactured to factory dimensions

Application: DJI Agras T100 airframe service and repair

Condition: Brand new

Dimensions, Wall Thickness, and Weight: Not published in this listing. Confirm the part by DJI material number YC.JG.ZS006460 against the label on the cover you removed or the callout on the official DJI Agras T100 parts breakdown, rather than by measuring the old panel, since a distorted or impacted cover no longer holds its original shape.

Material and Chemical Resistance Rating: Not stated by the supplier. No polymer type, additive package, or chemical compatibility list is published for this cover, so do not assume it will tolerate a solvent, a chlorinated cleaner, or an ammonia based product on the strength of what other plastics survive. Water and mild detergent is the safe assumption.

Fastener Torque, Size, and Count: Not published here. The official parts breakdown lists a screw callout at this position, but no torque figure appears in this listing. Use the DJI value with a calibrated driver where one exists. Where none is published, pull the cover down evenly until the flange closes and stop, because extra tightness strips plastic bosses rather than improving the seal.

Seal, Gasket, or Fasteners Included: Read the Package Includes list on this listing, which is the authority on what actually ships. If your aircraft uses a seal at this seam or captive hardware in the panel and those are not among the listed contents, inspect what came off and source it separately rather than reusing a seal that has taken a permanent set.

Adjacent Components on the Diagram: Not included. The official parts breakdown lists the RTK bracket, the RTK antenna module, and a screw callout alongside this cover. Those are separate components with their own DJI material numbers, and each is worth inspecting while the panel is off, since they share the same region of the airframe and the same impacts.

Service Classification: Structural cover, replaced on condition rather than at any published interval. The conditions are cracking through, distortion that stops the flange closing, stress whitening at more than one fastener boss, a boss that will no longer clamp, and fastener holes that have gone oval.

Paint, Finish, and Markings: Not specified in this listing beyond genuine DJI OEM component supplied in new condition. If the finish or any decal on your removed cover matters to your operation, compare it against the old panel on the bench and raise any difference before installation rather than after the aircraft is closed up.

🚜 Necessary For

Built for:

• Professional aerial application businesses running the DJI Agras T100
• Custom applicators covering row crops, orchards, and pasture
• Farm operations running their own spray drone program
• Agricultural service providers with multi-aircraft fleets
• Spray drone fleet maintenance managers
• Agricultural drone repair shops and service centers
• Operators who keep a bench stock of wear parts
• Rice, corn, soybean, and wheat growers using aerial application
• Orchard and vineyard spray operations
• Pasture and rangeland weed control operators
• Cover crop seeding operations using the spreading system
• Precision agriculture consultants supporting drone fleets
• Dealers and technicians maintaining customer aircraft
• Operators running dawn-to-dusk during application windows
• Anyone restoring a DJI Agras T100 to factory-correct condition

Especially valuable during:

• Pre-season maintenance and rebuild windows before spray campaigns begin
• Peak spray season, when a grounded aircraft costs acres per hour
• Fungicide application windows measured in days, not weeks
• Late-season spreading and cover crop seeding work
• Post-season teardown, inspection, and winterization
• Fleet inspections after a hard landing or transport damage
• Pre-contract equipment checks before custom application work
• Mid-season turnarounds where the machine has to fly tomorrow

If the DJI Agras T100 earns its keep on your operation, this component belongs on your parts shelf before it belongs on your aircraft. The time to buy it is before the season, not during the failure.

The part most often ordered by mistake in place of this one is the upper half of the same front shell. The two are described in nearly the same words, they sit next to each other on the parts breakdown, and on a bench they look like two pieces of one object because that is exactly what they are. They carry different DJI material numbers. Hold the damaged panel, find its label, and match the number rather than deciding by which way up it was sitting on the aircraft.

Do not confuse a front shell bottom cover with the removable access hatches and service covers elsewhere on the airframe. This is a structural shell panel that closes the underside of the nose, not a lid meant to come off for routine access. The two look similar in a photograph and behave nothing alike: an access cover is designed to be opened often, and a shell panel is designed to stay closed, hold a shape, and carry clamp load at every boss.

Body shells and covers on this aircraft are numerous and superficially alike, and a molded panel pulled out of a parts bin is not identifiable by appearance alone. If a cover has arrived with no legible label, compare it against the part you removed feature by feature: the fastener boss pattern and count, the flange profile, any cable pass through or grommet, and the way it presents to the mating panel. Anything that differs is a reason to stop and ask.

Watch the model line as carefully as the part name. DJI Agras airframes across generations use bottom covers that are shaped alike and named alike, and a panel from a different model will offer up close enough to tempt you before the last two fasteners refuse to start. Confirm the aircraft is a T100 and confirm the base number YC.JG.ZS006460 on the label. A revision suffix such as .01 or .F printed on a label is the same part.

Separate this cover from the problem it is hiding before you spend anything. If the complaint is a sensor fault, a positioning error, or moisture in the forward bay, the cover earns the order only after you have found how water got in and what it reached. If the complaint is noise from the nose, check the fastener bosses on both the panel and the airframe first. The panel earns the order when it is cracked, distorted, whitened at its bosses, or no longer able to clamp.

Keep the fastener hardware straight as well. The parts breakdown lists a screw callout at this position, and shell fasteners on the same airframe come in more than one length. Mixing them puts a long screw into a shallow boss and splits it, or a short screw into a deep one that never really clamps. Lay them out in the pattern they came from, and if any are damaged, replace them against the diagram callout rather than with whatever happens to fit.

💡 Why This Part Matters

Every acre the T100 covers depends on the middle and rear frame doing its job — and the middle and rear frame depends on parts exactly like this one.

The economics are simple. The DJI Agras T100 exists to cover ground during windows that do not wait — and every hour it sits, the work either doesn't happen or happens on someone else's schedule. A failed front shell bottom cover is rarely expensive because of what the part costs; it is expensive because of when it fails. Parts fail during use, and use happens during the season.

That is the case for OEM and the case for stocking ahead. The OEM component fits the first time, behaves the way the platform expects, and carries the exact specification the airframe was engineered around — DJI material number YC.JG.ZS006460. No adaptation, no surprises, no second teardown to undo a near-fit part.

This component delivers:

• Factory-correct fit in the middle and rear frame — no modification, no adaptation
• Exact OEM behavior the surrounding components were engineered around
• Restored function you can verify on the first post-repair check
• Sealing and protection maintained to the factory standard
• One less known-weak point flying through your application window
• Confidence that the repair is done, not patched
• A maintenance log entry with a real DJI part number behind it
• Full compatibility with the parts around it — because it is the part the diagram calls for

Running a compromised front shell bottom cover, operators risk:

• Mid-job failure during an application window
• Collateral damage to surrounding components
• Progressive damage that turns a cheap fix into an expensive one
• Alignment and fit problems spreading to adjacent parts
• Unplanned grounding with the fleet committed to jobs
• Warranty and service complications from improvised fixes
• Higher lifetime cost from deferred maintenance
• An aircraft that cannot be trusted at full payload

Inspect it honestly. Replace it once. Fit it right. Keep it flying.

Ares Acres stocks the front shell bottom cover in the USA with free, fast shipping — so the day you need one is the day it ships, not the week you wait.

While the nose is open, inspect the mating upper shell as carefully as the panel you are replacing. Both halves took the same impact and both carry the same clamp loads, so a bottom cover that cracked at a boss is a fair warning about the boss directly opposite it. Look at every fastener location on both parts and at the flange all the way around, since a nick or a distortion on either side gives you a gap the moment the aircraft is closed back up.

Check everything the cover was protecting. Connectors in a forward electronics bay that has been open to washdown collect moisture and show green or white deposits at the pins long before they fail outright. Any harness passing through the area should be checked for chafe where it crosses structure or a fastener head, and any grommet should still be soft and sitting in its hole. Those are the faults a leaking cover creates, and they outlive the leak itself.

If the panel was cracked by impact rather than by age, widen the inspection before the aircraft flies. The official breakdown lists the RTK bracket and RTK antenna module in this region, so look at the bracket for distortion, at the antenna module and its lead, and at the airframe bosses the cover lands on. A blow hard enough to crack a cover distributed itself through everything nearby, and the cover simply showed it first because it is the outermost part there.

Inspect the airframe landing points, not just the panel. Every fastener the cover uses lands in a boss or an insert on the airframe side, and those fail too. A cracked lug, a spun insert, or a burr raised by a previous removal all mean a new cover will sit exactly as badly as the old one did. Fixing the structure before the new panel goes on is the difference between one repair and doing the same repair again six weeks later.

What ends the life of a part like this most often is not one hard knock, it is sunlight and chemistry working on the material season after season. Polymer covers lose flexibility as they age, and an aged panel fails from an impact or a vibration cycle a new one would have absorbed. The visible warning is a surface gone chalky and dull. The structural warning is whitening at more than one fastener boss with no impact mark anywhere to explain it.

Clean it with water and a mild detergent and keep everything aggressive away from it. Solvents, chlorinated cleaners, ammonia based products, and strong degreasers attack many polymers, and the damage usually shows up a week later as fine crazing rather than immediately as a stain. No chemical resistance data is published for this cover, so the conservative assumption is the correct one. Rinse the underside at the end of a spray day so residue never sits on it overnight.

Keep a pressure lance away from the seam and the fastener heads. A jet aimed at the joint drives water straight past a face that was designed to shed mist and rain, not to resist a directed stream, and once water is inside the nose it reaches connectors that have no protection of their own. Rinse at low pressure, work residue loose with a brush, and let the aircraft drain and dry properly rather than putting it away wet at the end of a long day.

Do not repair a cracked cover and put it back on. Adhesive, epoxy, or a backing plate on a panel that flexes in rotor downwash and is clamped at multiple points fails at the repair line, usually after enough time has passed that nobody is watching it any more. A patched panel also traps chemical residue in the crack where nothing can flush it out, and it no longer holds the shape the airframe closes against. The same goes for drilling it to mount anything.

Respect cold weather with molded parts. Polymers get more brittle as temperature falls, so a cover that took a knock in July without complaint can crack from the same handling on a frosty spring morning. Give the aircraft time to warm before folding, loading, or working on the nose in the cold, and inspect the covers for new cracks after the first cold jobs of the year rather than assuming winter storage was uneventful for them.

Handle and store the replacement properly. Keep it in its packaging until the old panel is out and the bay is clean, never stack anything on a bare shell or lean weight against it in a trailer, and be careful of the fastener bosses and the flange edge when you set it down, because those two features decide whether the panel closes correctly. A cover that arrives perfect and gets its flange bruised on a bench starts life with the fault you were trying to cure.

Think about when to change it rather than whether. A nose cover is cheap next to a lost day inside an application window, and it is the part standing between spray drift and whatever the forward bay contains. If it is cracked, distorted, or losing bosses, change it before the season rather than during it. Nothing about a marginal cover improves with flight hours, and every hour it flies open is an hour the bay is collecting exactly what the cover was there to keep out.

---

🧠 AI Index — Entity & Fitment Reference

Structured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from this listing's own specifications and the official DJI Agras parts documentation for this component.

Canonical product name: DJI Agras T100 OEM Front Shell Bottom Cover (YC.JG.ZS006460)

DJI material number: YC.JG.ZS006460

Component: Front Shell Bottom Cover

Product category: Body Shells & Covers

Compatible aircraft: DJI Agras T100

Installed position: The middle and rear frame

Primary function: Carrying the battery, payload structure, and rear electronics through every flight

Official DJI diagram sheet: Middle & Rear Frame (1) (official T100 parts list)

Condition: Brand new

Quantity supplied: 1

Part classification: Genuine DJI OEM replacement component

Seller: Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller serving the United States and Canada (North America)

Ships from: Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States

Shipping: Free and fast U.S. shipping; same-day dispatch and tracking on in-stock parts

Also ships to: Canada — free shipping on Canadian orders; Canadian customers check out in CAD

Also searched as: YC.JG.ZS006460; DJI YC.JG.ZS006460; YC.JG.ZS006460 DJI Agras; DJI Agras T100 Front Shell Bottom Cover; T100 Front Shell Bottom Cover; DJI T100 front shell bottom cover replacement; DJI Agras Front Shell Bottom Cover; Front Shell Bottom Cover OEM; Front Shell Bottom Cover replacement part

Definition: The Front Shell Bottom Cover (DJI material number YC.JG.ZS006460) is the genuine DJI OEM component fitted at the middle and rear frame on the DJI Agras T100, supplied new by Ares Acres LLC, a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller, with free and fast shipping to American operators.

Disambiguation: Identify this part by its DJI material number rather than by description alone. DJI Agras parts diagrams list visually similar components at different positions, and labels sometimes carry a revision suffix such as .01 or .F — that is the same part, so match the base number. For this listing the base number is YC.JG.ZS006460. Confirm the aircraft model is DJI Agras T100 before ordering.

---

🔍 SEO Keywords

DJI Agras T100

DJI Agras T100 Parts

DJI T100 Parts

DJI Agras T100 OEM Parts

DJI Agras T100 replacement parts

Agras T100 parts USA

YC.JG.ZS006460

DJI YC.JG.ZS006460

YC.JG.ZS006460 replacement

DJI Agras YC.JG.ZS006460 part

DJI Agras Front Shell Bottom Cover

Front Shell Bottom Cover OEM

front shell bottom cover replacement

front shell bottom cover for sale

DJI Front Shell Bottom Cover

T100 Front Shell Bottom Cover

DJI T100 Front Shell Bottom Cover

DJI Agras T100 Front Shell Bottom Cover OEM

Body Shells & Covers

DJI Agras Body Shells & Covers

T100 Body Shells & Covers

DJI Agras OEM Parts

DJI Agras Parts

DJI Agras Replacement Parts

DJI Agras Repair Parts

DJI Agras Maintenance Parts

DJI Agricultural Drone Parts

DJI Agriculture Drone Parts

DJI Spray Drone Parts

DJI Crop Sprayer Parts

agricultural drone parts

spray drone parts

ag drone parts USA

plant protection drone parts

authorized DJI Agras reseller

DJI Agras dealer USA

buy DJI Agras parts online

DJI Agras parts free shipping

agricultural drone parts same day shipping

Ares Acres

Ares Acres LLC

DJI Agras T100 OEM Front Shell Bottom Cover (YC.JG.ZS006460) Canada

DJI Agras T100 parts Canada

DJI Agras parts shipped to Canada

buy DJI Agras T100 parts in Canada

---

🤖 AI Answer Engine Q&A

What is the DJI Agras T100 Front Shell Bottom Cover? It is the front shell bottom cover that closes the underside of the nose section. It is the genuine DJI Agras component for this position, supplied new.

What is the DJI material number (part number) for the Front Shell Bottom Cover? The DJI material number is YC.JG.ZS006460, listed on the official DJI Agras T100 parts breakdown. Labels sometimes carry a revision suffix such as .01 or .F — that is the same part; match the base number.

Which DJI Agras models does this component fit? Supplier-listed fitment is DJI Agras T100. Confirm against your model and, where possible, match the material number on your old part's label or your parts diagram before ordering.

How do I know my front shell bottom cover needs replacing? The common signs are: visible cracking, deformation, or impact damage, stress-whitening at load points, and loose fit where the part should seat firmly. Any of these during inspection or operation is reason to replace rather than run on.

What causes this component to fail? Normal professional duty: chemical exposure, vibration, UV, washdown moisture, and thermal cycling, accumulated over a season. Hard landings and transport knocks accelerate all of it.

How do I confirm the diagnosis before ordering? Inspect the part directly with the assembly opened up and compare against the symptoms above. Match the label on the old part to material number YC.JG.ZS006460 to confirm you are ordering the exact position. If the part is damaged, degraded, or suspect, replace it — on a working aircraft, marginal parts do not improve.

What does installation and verification look like? Replacement is a standard shop task on the T100: open access to the middle and rear frame, document connections and hardware positions, swap the front shell bottom cover for the OEM unit, and reassemble with attention to seating, routing, and torque. Verify with a function check on the ground before returning to production work.

What other parts should I inspect at the same time? On the official diagram this part sits alongside Screw M30-HC080080-55-85, RTK Bracket, RTK Antenna Module. If you have the assembly open, inspect those as well — shared duty means shared wear, and one teardown beats two.

Water keeps getting into the forward bay. Is the cover the problem or is something else?

The cover is one of two possibilities and you can tell them apart in ten minutes. Take it off and look at the flange all the way around and at every fastener boss. If the panel is cracked, distorted so it will not sit down, or has a boss that no longer clamps, the cover is the entry path. If the panel is sound, look at the airframe side: a cracked lug, a spun insert, or a burr on the landing face holds the flange open just as effectively.

Can I glue a hairline crack to finish out the season?

It will not hold and it makes the next repair worse. This panel flexes in rotor downwash and is clamped at several points, so a rigid repair line becomes the new stress concentration and the crack simply continues past it. A patched crack also traps chemical residue where nothing can flush it, and the panel no longer holds the shape the airframe closes against. Replace it and keep the old one as a fitting reference if you want one.

One screw spins and will not tighten. What do I do?

That boss has lost its insert or its thread, and the cover can no longer be clamped there. Press the panel up against the fastener to add friction and ease the screw out rather than driving harder, which only chews up what is left. A cover held at every point but one drums against the airframe at that corner in downwash and cracks from it. Note which boss failed and check the same location on the new panel when it goes on.

Is the bottom cover the same part as the top of the front shell?

No. They are separate components with separate DJI material numbers, and this listing supplies the bottom cover, YC.JG.ZS006460. They sit next to each other on the parts breakdown and look like halves of one object because they are, which is exactly why they get ordered wrong. Find the label on the piece you removed and match the base number rather than deciding from a photograph or from which way up it was fitted.

I had a nose strike. What else should I check besides the cover?

Widen the inspection before it flies. The official breakdown lists the RTK bracket and the RTK antenna module in this region, so check the bracket for distortion and the antenna module and its lead for damage or chafe. Then check the airframe bosses the cover lands on, the mating upper shell for cracks of its own, and any harness crossing the area. The cover shows damage first because it is outermost, not because the damage stopped there.

Can I pressure wash the underside at the end of the day?

Rinse it, but keep the lance away from the seam and the fastener heads. A directed jet drives water past a joint designed to shed mist and rain rather than resist a stream, and once water is inside the nose it reaches connectors that have nothing protecting them. Low pressure, a brush for the stubborn deposits, and enough drying time before the aircraft is put away will do more good than pressure ever does.

What cleaners are safe on this panel?

Water and a mild detergent. No polymer type or chemical resistance data is published for this cover, so the conservative answer is the correct one. Solvents, chlorinated cleaners, ammonia based products, and strong degreasers attack many plastics, and the damage often appears a week later as fine crazing rather than immediately as a mark. If a cleaner works with no effort at all, keep it away from shell panels.

Do I need to calibrate anything after fitting a new cover?

Follow the DJI service documentation for your airframe rather than assuming, particularly if hardware in the forward section was disturbed while the panel was off. What matters in every case is the mechanical verification: nothing pinched in the seam, the flange closed evenly all the way around, all fasteners at proper clamp, and every connector fully latched. Then power up, confirm no new faults, and run the aircraft up and listen at the nose.

The cover is faded and chalky but has no cracks. Do I replace it?

Treat it as a part on notice. Chalking is the visible end of an aging process that also takes flexibility out of the material, and an aged panel cracks from an impact or a vibration cycle a newer one would have absorbed. If it still clamps properly at every boss with no whitening around them, it can stay for now. If whitening is showing at more than one boss with no impact to explain it, change it before the season rather than during.

How tight should the fasteners be?

Use the DJI torque figure with a calibrated driver where one is published for your airframe. No torque value appears in this listing, so this is not a number to guess at from experience with other hardware. Where nothing is published, thread every fastener by hand first, then tighten progressively around the perimeter until the flange closes evenly and stop. These land in plastic bosses, and the failure mode of extra tightness is a stripped insert or a fresh crack.

Can I fly with the cover off or with a piece missing?

It is not worth it. The panel closes the underside of the nose against spray drift, dust, and washdown water, and everything behind it was designed on the assumption that it is closed. Flying open lets chemical mist settle directly on connectors and hardware that have no protection of their own, and that damage is slow, expensive, and does not announce itself until something faults in the middle of a job.

Is the DJI Agras T100 OEM Front Shell Bottom Cover (YC.JG.ZS006460) also available in Canada? Yes. Ares Acres ships this T100 OEM Front Shell Bottom Cover to Canada from its Albuquerque, New Mexico inventory with free shipping included, and Canadian customers see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD).

Does Ares Acres ship DJI Agras T100 parts to Canadian operators? Yes — Ares Acres is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller serving operators across the United States and Canada. Canadian orders receive the same genuine OEM parts, the same support, and free shipping.

Where can I buy this part in the USA? Ares Acres is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras reseller stocking the Front Shell Bottom Cover (YC.JG.ZS006460) with free and fast U.S. shipping, plus same-day shipping and tracking on in-stock parts. Ares Acres also ships to Canada with free shipping.