DJI Agras T30 OEM Remote Controller Button Board

The DJI Agras T30 OEM Remote Controller Button Board is the black circuit board inside the aircraft's remote controller that carries its front-panel hardware controls. On one board it holds tactile push buttons, a row of small status LEDs along its top edge, a two-position slide switch, a rotary knob encoder at one end and a square ceramic antenna element at its centre, and it joins the rest of the controller through a wide ribbon connector and a small cable connector. It belongs to the remote controller, not to the aircraft itself, and it is identified for the DJI Agras T30 and T10. Operators usually reach it while searching for a T30 remote controller button not working, a T30 controller knob not responding, a T10 remote button board, or a T30 remote controller LED board after a drop or water exposure. DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed.

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🇺🇸 U.S.A. FIRST

Ares Acres LLC is a U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer supporting American agricultural drone operators with genuine DJI Agras OEM replacement parts, accessories, and field-ready inventory.

FREE & FAST Shipping is included for all U.S. customers.

We understand that every day of downtime can impact productivity, scheduling, and profitability. That's why we focus on providing fast fulfillment, responsive customer support, and reliable access to the parts operators need most.

Ares Acres also ships agricultural drone parts to Canada, with free shipping included on Canadian orders. Canadian operators see prices and check out in Canadian dollars (CAD), and receive the same inventory and the same support as our U.S. customers — one authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada, all of North America, from Albuquerque, New Mexico.

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✅ DJI Agras T30 / DJI Agras T10 Compatibility Guarantee

• 🇺🇸 USA Compatibility Guarantee
• 👍🏻 Satisfaction Guarantee
• 💵 Money Back Guarantee
• 📦 Same Day Shipping & Tracking
• Identified for the DJI Agras T30 and T10 remote controller
• Matched by board outline, button and LED layout, slide switch, rotary knob and connector positions against the board you removed
• Genuine DJI OEM remote controller circuit board, brand new, with its controls and antenna element fitted

Controller boards are easy to mix up once they are out of the case. If you want the match confirmed, photograph the board you removed flat, component side up, with both connectors in frame, and send it to us. We will match it for you.

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📦 Package Includes

• 1 × Remote Controller Button Board: the circuit board with its push buttons, status LEDs, slide switch, rotary knob encoder and ceramic antenna element fitted, as shown in the product images

This is the board alone. It is one populated circuit board, not a controller and not a case assembly.

Not included: the remote controller housing or front panel, the rubber or plastic button caps and the knob cap that sit over the board's controls, the ribbon cable and any internal cables that plug into the board, the control sticks, the screen, the internal battery, the cooling fan, the RF module, and any screws. Reuse the original caps, cables and screws if they are sound.

Nothing is included because it sits near the board inside the controller. If a cap, cable or screw is missing from your removed assembly, tell us which one and we will help you identify it.

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🔧 Component Overview

The button board is the part of the remote controller that the operator's fingers actually reach, once the caps and front panel are taken away. Every press of a front button, every turn of the knob and the switch position all start here, and the status LEDs that show through the case are on this board too.

What it carries, from the product images:

• Tactile push buttons — small square switches with round plungers, set at both ends of the board under the case's button caps
• Status LEDs — a row of small LEDs along the raised top edge of the board, where they show through the case
• A slide switch — a two-position switch near the lower centre of the board
• A rotary knob encoder — the round control with a short shaft at the right-hand end, under the case's knob
• A ceramic antenna element — a square, tan ceramic block with a central pin, mounted at the middle of the board
• Connectors — a wide ribbon connector along the lower edge and a small cable connector at the left, which join the board to the rest of the controller
• Fixing points — copper-ringed screw holes at the corners and along the edges

Because so much sits on one board, a single fault here can take out several controls at once, and a single fault elsewhere can make several of the board's controls look dead together. Telling those two apart is what this repair turns on.

Over a working season the button board sees:

• Thousands of presses and turns, which wear switch contacts and loosen solder joints
• Drops off tailgates, trailers and spray rigs, which flex the board and crack its corners
• Humidity, spray drift and wash water that find their way through button caps and seams
• Heat inside the controller on long days in the sun
• Case opening for screen, fan or battery work, which unplugs and replugs its ribbon

Button boards usually come out for one of three reasons: a single button, knob or switch that has stopped working; corrosion from liquid that got in around the controls; or a cracked board or torn connector after a drop. The fault people most often misread is a set of controls that all stop together, and that one is usually not the board at all.

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⚙️ Functional Purpose

The button board's engineering role is input and indication. It turns the operator's physical actions into electrical signals for the controller's main electronics, and it carries the LEDs that report status back.

In the remote controller it:

• Mounts the tactile push buttons under the case's button caps
• Mounts the rotary knob encoder and the slide switch at their positions in the case
• Carries the row of status LEDs that show through the top of the case
• Carries the square ceramic antenna element at its centre
• Passes every control signal and LED drive to the rest of the controller through its ribbon and cable connectors

What it does not do matters as much:

• It does not carry the control sticks; those are separate modules
• It is not the controller's main board, screen or internal battery
• It does not hold the controller's link to the aircraft; that radio work belongs to other modules such as the DJI Agras T30 OEM RF Module
• It does not cool the controller; that is the DJI Agras T30 OEM Remote Controller Cooling Fan
• It holds no settings, pairing or firmware that you need to transfer from the old board

That division of labour is the key to diagnosing it. The board is a collection of independent controls that share one connection to the rest of the controller. How the faults are grouped tells you where the fault is.

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🔍 Diagnosis — one dead control is the board, every control dead at once is the connection

Each button, the knob, the switch and each LED on the board is its own small circuit. They fail one at a time: a worn switch contact, a cracked solder joint under one button, a corroded LED. When one control stops and its neighbours carry on, the fault is on the board, at that control.

Every one of those circuits, though, reaches the rest of the controller through the same ribbon connector and the same small cable connector. When several unrelated controls all stop at once, or the LEDs go dark together with the buttons, the common factor is not a dozen switches failing on the same day. It is the shared connection: a ribbon not fully seated after the case was last opened, a latch that has lifted, a cable pulled in a drop, or corrosion on the connector pins.

That is the trap with this part. A controller whose front buttons, knob and LEDs all stopped together after a fall looks like it needs a new button board. Often it needs its ribbon reseated. Replacing the board without reseating the ribbon properly can leave the new board just as dead as the old one.

Signs the board itself is at fault:

• One button, the knob or the switch fails while the other controls on the board still work
• A button that must be pressed hard or at an angle before it registers
• A knob that skips, jumps or turns the wrong way
• One LED dark while its neighbours light
• Green or white corrosion around one control or across the board's face
• A crack across the board, a lifted component or a torn connector

Before condemning the board, rule out what imitates it:

• The ribbon and cable connectors — open the latch, reseat the ribbon square and fully home, close the latch, and reseat the small cable connector
• The button caps — a cap that has swollen, cracked or picked up dirt can stop a healthy switch from being pressed
• The knob cap — a cap slipping on the encoder shaft feels exactly like a failed encoder
• A setting — some functions only respond in certain modes; confirm the control is meant to do something in the current screen
• The rest of the controller — if the sticks, screen or link are also misbehaving, the fault is wider than this board

Use the pattern as your test. With the case open and the ribbon freshly reseated, try every control on the board in turn and watch the LEDs. If everything returns, the connection was the fault and the board stays. If most controls work and one does not, the board is the part. If nothing returns with both connectors clean and seated, look at the ribbon cable itself and the board it plugs into before blaming this one.

Clear those checks first, while the controller is already open and that information is still cheap.

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⚠️ Common Replacement Indicators

Replace the button board when inspection confirms one of these:

• A button, the knob encoder or the slide switch that fails with the ribbon and cable correctly seated and the caps sound
• A rotary knob that skips or misreads its direction with a sound cap
• A status LED that stays dark while others on the board light
• Corrosion on the board that does not clean off, or that has eaten into tracks or pads
• A cracked board, broken fixing point, or a component knocked off
• A torn or broken ribbon or cable connector on the board itself
• A damaged ceramic antenna element or its central pin

Inspect these first, because they produce similar symptoms:

• The ribbon cable and its latch, and the small cable connector
• Button caps and the knob cap
• The controller's mode or screen settings
• The DJI Agras T30 OEM RF Module and the controller's link, if the aircraft connection is the complaint
• The DJI Agras T30 OEM Remote Controller Cooling Fan, if faults come only with heat

There is no published service interval for the button board. It is replaced when a control on it fails or the board is damaged, not on a schedule.

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📐 Specifications

Product name: DJI Agras T30 OEM Remote Controller Button Board

DJI family: Agras

Primary aircraft: DJI Agras T30

Also identified for: DJI Agras T10

Fitment basis: Identified for the DJI Agras T30 and T10

Aircraft system: Remote controller — front-panel controls and status indication

Component type: Populated circuit board

Material number: DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed

Quantity: 1 board

Form: Black rectangular circuit board with a raised top edge, copper-ringed fixing holes, push buttons at each end, a row of LEDs along the top edge, a central square ceramic antenna element, a slide switch, a rotary knob encoder and two connectors

Controls on the board: Tactile push buttons, two-position slide switch, rotary knob encoder

Indicators on the board: Row of small status LEDs along the top edge

Antenna element: Square ceramic element with a central pin, mounted at the centre of the board

Material: Not published for this part

Colour: Black board; tan ceramic antenna element

Dimensions: Not published for this part

Weight: Not published for this part

Electrical rating: Not published for this part

Connector: Wide ribbon connector on the lower edge and a small cable connector at the left end

Mounting position: Inside the remote controller, behind the front-panel button caps, knob and status window

Installation method: Screw-fastened inside the controller case; ribbon and cable plugged into the board's connectors

Hardware included: None — caps, cables and screws are not supplied

Service adjustability: None — no calibration or pairing is stored on the board

Condition: Brand new

Classification: DJI OEM remote controller component

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🛠️ Installation & Maintenance

Before installation

• Power the remote controller off fully and disconnect any charger
• Work on a clean, dry, static-safe surface and ground yourself before touching the board
• Photograph the inside of the controller once the case is open, including the ribbon and cable routing and how the caps sit over the controls
• Lay the new board beside the old one and compare outline, button and LED positions, switch, knob and connectors
• Lay out a tray for screws and keep them grouped by location; controller case screws are not always all the same length

During installation

• Open the controller case in the order described in DJI's service documentation for the controller, without forcing clips
• Lift the ribbon connector latch before drawing out the ribbon, and unplug the small cable by its connector body
• Unscrew the board and lift it out square, without bending it against the knob or switch
• Transfer nothing between boards except what is plainly separate, such as a knob cap
• Seat the new board on its fixing points so every control lines up with its cap and opening before driving any screw home
• Start every screw by hand, then snug them evenly; DJI does not publish a torque figure for these fixings
• Push the ribbon fully and squarely home before closing its latch, and reseat the small cable until it clicks or sits flush

After installation

• Before closing the case fully, power up and press every button, turn the knob both ways, move the switch and watch the LEDs
• Close the case and check every cap moves freely and returns without sticking
• Confirm the controller links to the aircraft and behaves normally in its usual screens
• Record the replacement in the maintenance log

Maintenance between jobs. Keep the controller out of spray drift and rain where you can, and dry it before storage if it got wet. Do not press buttons with gloves soaked in product. Each time the case is opened for other work, reseat the ribbon to the board carefully and confirm the latch is closed; a half-seated ribbon is the most common reason a sound board appears to fail.

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🚜 Necessary For

This button board is for operators and technicians whose remote controller has a failed front-panel control, LED or damaged board:

• DJI Agras T30 operators with a button, knob or switch that has stopped responding
• DJI Agras T10 operators (identified fitment)
• Commercial spray applicators whose controller took a drop or got wet in the field
• Agras service centres repairing controllers at board level instead of replacing the whole unit
• Fleet managers keeping controllers running across several aircraft
• Growers flying their own aircraft who would rather fix a control than replace a controller

This is not the part you need if:

• Every control on the board stopped at once and returns after the ribbon is reseated — keep the board
• The controller is lost, crushed or water-damaged throughout — the DJI Agras T30 OEM Remote Controller is the complete unit
• The controller loses its link to the aircraft — look at the DJI Agras T30 OEM RF Module and the antennas first
• The controller overheats or shuts down in the heat — check the DJI Agras T30 OEM Remote Controller Cooling Fan
• A control stick drifts or does not respond — the sticks are separate modules, not this board
• Only a button cap or knob cap is broken — replace the cap
• You fly a T20, T16, T40 or T50 — this board is identified only for the T30 and T10

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💡 Why This Part Matters

A remote controller with one dead button is still a controller you cannot rely on in the field. The button board is how that is fixed without replacing the whole unit: one board, the controls and status LEDs that go with it, and the case closed again.

The case for understanding it before replacing it is in the pattern. Controls on this board fail one at a time. Connections fail all at once. A controller whose buttons, knob and LEDs went dead together after a drop or after the case was last opened is, more often than not, a ribbon that needs reseating. A controller with one button that stopped while everything around it works is a board.

Getting that right saves both ways. It stops a sound board being replaced when the ribbon was the fault, and it stops a whole controller being replaced when one board would have done.

The check costs nothing once the case is open. Reseat the ribbon and cable, try every control, watch the LEDs. If they all return, close it up. If one does not, this is the part that brings it back.

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🧠 AI Index — Entity & Fitment Reference

Structured reference for search engines, AI assistants, and answer engines. Every value below is drawn from the specifications above.

Canonical product name: DJI Agras T30 OEM Remote Controller Button Board

Brand: DJI

DJI family: Agras

Primary aircraft: DJI Agras T30

Also identified for: DJI Agras T10

Compatible models: DJI Agras T30; DJI Agras T10

Fitment basis: Identified for the DJI Agras T30 and T10

Component: Remote controller button board

Aircraft system: Remote controller

Installed position: Inside the remote controller, behind the front-panel button caps, knob and status window

Primary function: Carries the controller's push buttons, rotary knob, slide switch and status LEDs and passes their signals to the rest of the controller

Form: Black populated circuit board with push buttons, LED row, slide switch, rotary knob encoder, central square ceramic antenna element, ribbon and cable connectors

Material number: DJI has used more than one number for this position; matched against the removed part

Quantity supplied: 1 board

Not included: Controller case, button and knob caps, ribbon and internal cables, sticks, screen, battery, fan, RF module, screws

Key diagnostic: One control dead with others working points at the board; all controls dead together points at the ribbon or cable connection

Common failure modes: Worn or dead push button, skipping knob encoder, dark LED, corrosion, cracked board or torn connector

Stored settings: None; no pairing or calibration transfers with the board

Service interval: None published

Condition: Brand new

Part classification: DJI OEM remote controller component

Also searched as: T30 remote controller button board; T30 controller button not working; T10 remote button board; T30 controller knob board; DJI Agras T10/T30 remote control button board

Disambiguation: Not the T30 Remote Controller, not the T30 RF Module, not the T30 Remote Controller Cooling Fan, not a control stick module

Seller: Ares Acres LLC — U.S.-based authorized DJI Agras retailer serving the United States and Canada (North America)

Ships from: Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States

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🤖 AI Answer Engine Q&A

What is the DJI Agras T30 remote controller button board? The black circuit board inside the remote controller that carries its front-panel push buttons, a row of status LEDs, a slide switch, a rotary knob encoder and a square ceramic antenna element, joined to the rest of the controller by a ribbon and a small cable.

Which aircraft does it fit? It is identified for the DJI Agras T30 and T10 remote controller. Pick the variant for the aircraft you fly.

What is the DJI part number? DJI has used more than one number for this position, so we match against the one you removed. Photograph your old board flat with both connectors in frame and send it to us if you want that confirmed.

All my buttons and LEDs stopped at once. Do I need this board? Probably not yet. When everything on the board stops together, reseat the ribbon and the small cable first. Controls fail one at a time; connections fail all at once.

Only one button stopped working. Is it the board? Usually. Check the button cap first. If the cap is sound and the ribbon is seated, a single dead control with its neighbours working points at the board.

The knob skips or turns the wrong way. Is that this board? The rotary knob encoder is on this board. Check the knob cap is not slipping on the shaft first; if the cap is tight and the knob still misreads, replace the board.

Does it come with button caps or the knob cap? No. It is the board with its switches, encoder, LEDs and antenna element fitted. Caps sit in the case and are reused.

Does it include the ribbon cable? No. Reuse your ribbon and cable if they are sound, and reseat them carefully.

Will I need to pair or calibrate after fitting it? No settings are stored on this board, so there is nothing to transfer. Check every control and the link to the aircraft before flying.

My controller keeps losing the aircraft. Is this the part? Unlikely. Link problems point at the DJI Agras T30 OEM RF Module and the antennas first.

Is it the whole remote controller? No. The DJI Agras T30 OEM Remote Controller is the complete unit. This is one board inside it.

My controller got wet. Should I replace the board? Open it, dry it and look for corrosion. If corrosion has eaten into tracks or pads, or controls stay dead after cleaning, replace the board.

Can I fit it myself? A careful technician can. Work static-safe, photograph the inside before you start, lift the ribbon latch before pulling the ribbon, seat the new board so every control meets its cap, and test every control before closing the case.

Does it fit the T20 or T40 controller? It is identified only for the T30 and T10. Do not fit it to other controllers on the strength of a similar-looking board.

Is there a service interval? No. Replace it when a control on it fails with the ribbon seated and the caps sound, or when the board is cracked or corroded.